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Can Opeler
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I've grabbed bits and pieces about bleeding the brakes from several posts on this forum, but can anybody give me a step by step walkthrough. I don't want to get air bubbles stuck like I did on my fourwheeler last year haha.
My equipment consists of 2 floor jacks and 2 ramps, a brake bleeder hand pump, and brake fluid. I'm replacing all three rubber brake hoses and both rear cylinders. I'm planning on doing this today or tomorrow.


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Sounds like you have your day planed, 1, You will need a 1 man bleeder kit ( $5.00) or a long small hose ( fits bleeder's) and a can. If you let the hose hang in the can, below the fluid level, when you bleed the brakes, it will pull fluid back in when you are working the pedal, & allow the air to push out. Change out the rear rubber hose first, then do the pass. rear wheel , drivers rear, then front pass, front driver. The front brakes will gravity feed to a point. I used almost a qt. of fluid when I did mine last time with new booster & MC. Have fun, easy job :yup:
 

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Opeler
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Sounds like you have your day planed, 1, You will need a 1 man bleeder kit ( $5.00) or a long small hose ( fits bleeder's) and a can. If you let the hose hang in the can, below the fluid level, when you bleed the brakes, it will pull fluid back in when you are working the pedal, & allow the air to push out. Change out the rear rubber hose first, then do the pass. rear wheel , drivers rear, then front pass, front driver. The front brakes will gravity feed to a point. I used almost a qt. of fluid when I did mine last time with new booster & MC. Have fun, easy job :yup:
I've used this method several times with a good solid pedal when finished. Just be sure to keep brake fluid in master cylinder reservoir or you will have to start over. And, keep hose below fluid level as previously mentioned.
 

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I've used this method several times with a good solid pedal when finished. Just be sure to keep brake fluid in master cylinder reservoir or you will have to start over. And, keep hose below fluid level as previously mentioned.
Agree, 1 side of the resv. will go empty before the other, depending on which brakes you are doing. Keep a close eye on it.
 

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Can Opeler
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Discussion Starter #6
Did you get the care package I sent?
No I haven't yet, I figured you forgot, or got busy and I didn't want to bug you about it. When did you send it? Sometimes our mail here is slow. I checked the address I sent you and it was correct, so it sounds like the post office might of messed up.


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Can Opeler
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Discussion Starter #8
you should get it any day. When you said replace wheel cylinder, I thought you might have got it already.
Alright thanks for sending that stuff by the way. I bought one cylinder from OGTS and got a rebuild kit for the other, but I might wait and put on the one you sent me and use the rebuild one as a spare.


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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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IF you have a hard time getting it to bleed. Only jack up the rear so its as high as possible.

Also gravity bleeding I find works great sometimes, if your having a hard time. That is simply done with putting the vial, fluid holder, etc.. Higher than the wheel cylinder or caliper.. cracking open the line.. and watching it fill the container.

Takes a little longer, but it doesn't agitate the brake fluid causing little bubbles.. that can be hard to get out at times.
 

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Take it from me. Be sure that you fill BOTH cups of the reservoir. I screwed around for days pulling my hair out thinking the reservoir was full. If you look towards the back of the reservoir, you'll see a divider. Keep pouring in fluid and watch it overflow over the divider into the rear cup. Stop when the fluid in the front cup starts to raise again. Also, keep it topped off as you are bleeding. Nothing worse than being just about done and then sucking in air into the system and having to start over again.


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Opeler
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lesson learned

Replaced a sticky caliper and tried to bleed with a vacuum/bleeder pump never used before. Did not work so I asked my wife to help to pump the brakes. Couldn't get the rebuilt caliper to bleed. Couldn't get other brakes to bleed either. I tried the brakes and they were soft and went to the floor. Went in for supper and then tried again but no luck. I had her pump the brakes as l checked the master cylinder and noticed the rod to the booster was not moving.:confused: Then it hit me, if you haven't figured it out already, she had been pumping the clutch the whole time.:argue::lmao: It's not all her fault. She has driven a straight stick but it had been awhile and when we first started she did ask me if it was the outside pedal. Brakes are now bled and working.:drive:
 

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Can Opeler
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Discussion Starter #14
In the three years since this post I've bled GT brakes a dozen or more times. Vacuum bleeding doesn't work worth a darn, and the old fashioned way is tough when you can't find someone to push the brake pedal. I use a cheap little "one man brake bleeder" kit from autozone. It mounts onto the brake with a magnet and is literally a small bottle with a tube on it. You put the tube on brake bleeder, and then go and pump the brake a few times. Makes a two person job into a 5 minute one person job.
 

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Über Genius
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I'm bleeding my system with the neighbor kid as soon as he wakes up.
I just had to replace the MC and booster on Blue. The booster was absolutely full to the vacuum port with brake fluid. I knew I was leaking past the main seal but it wasn't bad til the last drive I did. I emptied the MC in a half hour drive and pulled in home on half a Master Cylinder.

I did bench bleed the MC but I couldn't seem to get fluid out of the rear port (closest to the booster that runs the rear brakes). While assembling the MC into the car I noticed it had a valved port in it. It's the new MC from OGTS that only uses one banjo fitting.

The plan is to go RR, LR, RF, LF.

For anyone that is replacing their MC and Booster with OGTS 9" booster and MC combo. It's a skill level of about 3 (scale 1-5) and a swear level about 17.
 

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Question about bleeding brakes

In the three years since this post I've bled GT brakes a dozen or more times. Vacuum bleeding doesn't work worth a darn, and the old fashioned way is tough when you can't find someone to push the brake pedal. I use a cheap little "one man brake bleeder" kit from autozone. It mounts onto the brake with a magnet and is literally a small bottle with a tube on it. You put the tube on brake bleeder, and then go and pump the brake a few times. Makes a two person job into a 5 minute one person job.
Do you bleed your brakes with the car running, or off? I have heard it done either way, don't know if there is a "proper" way, or not. Doesn't seem like it would matter either way, other than sucking exhaust fumes in the process. Just wanted to get your thoughts. Thanks.
 

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Vendor
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I've always done it with the engine off.
I can't think of any reasons for the car to be running if you are just removing the air from the system.
Is the thought that the vacuum assist will help purge the lines more efficiently?
 

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Senior Contributor
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I would definitely be bleeding the brakes with the Motor... OFF,,,,, Certainly... I think it's dangerous to bleed while running..

Dangerous Fumes, while your climbing under the Opel,, Hot Parts,, Exhaust, pipes , Burns,,, Leave it Off,,
I would...

I do The One Man Brake Bleed,,, But if you search here you'll find a way to Pressure bleed the Brakes using a Normal Garden Sprayer ... I think kwilford has a Great Idea :yup:

In my opinion I would leave your engine OFF while dealing with the brakes :yup:
 

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Agreed Kwilford had a pretty niffty set up for brake bleeding.which is great if it's just you alone.
Definitely engine off
and start at the rear pass side then drivers rear ,pass front and finish at drivers front
Make sure reservoir is way fuller than it should be and don't let the front half run dry or you will be starting all over again :yup: HTH
 
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