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· Opeler
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56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just searched through the threads and didn't find a quick solution... How can I remove the connecting rod pins from my old pistons? Two of my manuals state that a hydraulic press is needed. I'm sure a few of you may be fortunate to have one out in your garage, but I'm not that lucky. Can I use gentle heat (propane torch) on the rod and knock them out with an appropriate punch or am I risking damage to the rod? I'm getting too close to finishing all of my GT "to do list" tasks to make a costly mistake. thanks
 

· Über Moderator
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6,683 Posts
Lonnie,

I dropped my GT engine off today at the machine shop, who already has the Ascona engine. Both are getting new oversize flat top pistons. Jim (the machinist) showed me how he removes and re-installs rods and pins. He has a small heater that selectively heats the small end of the rod, and then gently presses the pins out. He reverses the process to re-install the new pistons (and new pins) on the rods. Perhaps it is worth the trouble to just take them down to a local engine machine shop, and have them press the rods off and on. You might also be advised to have them check the rod big ends to see if they need to be re-sized. All eight of my rods needed to be done, which can go a long way in preventing a spun bearing later.

As for a small press, Princess Auto sells this one below for something like $149 CAD, in case you have a corner of your garage free
 

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· Old Opeler
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5,564 Posts
Gudgeon Pins

I was surprised to read, in a service manual, that; "Gudgeon pin removal, however, would not apply to the majority of pre-1970 models, as the pistons and connecting rods for these models are only renewable as an asembled unit"

It is important that the small end of the rod is the correct size too so there is enough of a press fit to hold the pin in place - nothing else holds it but the press fit. The big end should be resized as a matter of course and the rod bolts replaced before the resizing is done.

Too many Opels spin the con rod bearings because the big end has not been resized during an engine rebuild. The last "reconditioned" motor I dismantled had #1 and #4 rod bearing halves one on top of the other - and had continued to run, while gouging the crank pin to ruination. :eek:
 
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