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My opinion, and it's been disputed by some on the forum, is that it's much easier to remove the engine, bolt the transmission to it, and then put the engine back in with the transmission attached than it is to put the transmission on the engine with the engine in the car.

Those top two bolts ARE a pain if the engine is in. My first engine replacement was done with the transmission still in the car. I'll never do it that way again.
When I did the clutch in my Kadett, I dropped the engine and trans with the subframe. I think I'll do that again, wasn't too hard.
 
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My opinion, and it's been disputed by some on the forum, is that it's much easier to remove the engine, bolt the transmission to it, and then put the engine back in with the transmission attached than it is to put the transmission on the engine with the engine in the car.

Those top two bolts ARE a pain if the engine is in. My first engine replacement was done with the transmission still in the car. I'll never do it that way again.
are you talking about a GT?

you have to drain the radiator and should remove it right? also don't you need (for best results) need an engine hoist?

with the trans you first bolt on the bell-housing then the trans and then the supports and mounts it only weighs like 45Lbs (if I remember right)

(never try to bolt up the trans with the bell housing attached) with some made up guide bolts its not very hard
 

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Discussion Starter #463
are you talking about a GT?

you have to drain the radiator and should remove it right? also don't you need (for best results) need an engine hoist?

with the trans you first bolt on the bell-housing then the trans and then the supports and mounts it only weighs like 45Lbs (if I remember right)

(never try to bolt up the trans with the bell housing attached) with some made up guide bolts its not very hard
Not much choice when it's a T5 with a built-in throwout bearing guide, or a Getrag or TH180 for that matter.

Also, the T5 weighs 70 lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #464
I ran a string from the center line af the back of the crankshaft to the center of the torque tube propeller shaft to measure transmission tunnel clearance, and I've actually got 1/2" more clearance than I thought. The T5 shift tower just might fit as is!

I have some last minute fixes to make on my shifter, but hope to have time today to stuff the T5 in there and see how well it really fits.

BTW, my bellhousing-to-engine bolts didn't have any lockwashers on them. Is this normal?
 

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are you talking about a GT?

you have to drain the radiator and should remove it right? also don't you need (for best results) need an engine hoist?

with the trans you first bolt on the bell-housing then the trans and then the supports and mounts it only weighs like 45Lbs (if I remember right)

(never try to bolt up the trans with the bell housing attached) with some made up guide bolts its not very hard
I said easier. I didn't say it required less tools. :p

Yes, you should remove the radiator so you can remove the fan.
 
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Discussion Starter #467
I find I can get to the top engine bolts with a stubby ratchet wrench. Makes it not too bad until you get to the end and have to really tighten them, and then there's just not enough leverage with the stubby.
 

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Discussion Starter #468
Well, I got my T5 in the car! No driveshaft connected yet, but the adapter worked perfectly and everything fits without cutting a thing! The shifter is even smack dab in the middle of the hole!

The bad news is that I have a noise whenever I depress the clutch. The clutch feels normal, but something is rubbing. I put just three bolts between the bell-housing and the engine just to I see if the clutch worked, and I'm hoping that maybe something isn't quite aligned properly. I've been working all afternoon installing the transmission and just now found the clutch problem, but it's now nearly 10:30 p.m. I've decided to call it a day and tackle it in the morning.

I'm using the same pressure plate and throwout bearing I used with the Opel transmission. The only thing different is the T5's built-in retainer and a custom clutch disc I had made to match the Ford T5's input shaft. I cut the T5's throwout bearing retainer to match the length of the Opel retainer.

I have to say that although everything fits, getting it in there is no fun with the engine already in the car. Using the T5's built-in guide makes it a major hassle, as you have to install the transmission with the bell-housing attached. If I had it to do again I think it would be better to use the Opel throwout bearing guide. It attaches to the bell-housing rather than to the transmission, meaning you can install the bell-housing and transmission separately.

Will post some photos tomorrow.
 

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The only way to use the Opel Throwout bearing guide is to heavily modify the T5 guide and/or the adapter.
 

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Discussion Starter #470
The only way to use the Opel Throwout bearing guide is to heavily modify the T5 guide and/or the adapter.
Yeah, I understand that. Not something I intend to do, and if we had made the adapter that way from the start it would have created other issues finding an input bearing retainer.

I just hope there's enough room to access the clutch tomorrow if I have to without dropping the T5 again. :ugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #471
Well, hallelujah... the clutch noise was just improper alignment. I had installed just a few bolts in the bell-housing because I didn't want to button everything up until I knew the clutch was working. Once I added the rest of the bolts the noise is gone.

Now I need a transmission mount. I'm thinking the Opel TH180 crossmember might be a good place to start, as the T5's mounting hole is about 2" away from its center line. Whatever crossmember I get is going to need to dip a couple of inches in the middle, so a piece of angle iron is not going to work without some welding.

Here's a shot of the T5 shifter in the GT.
 

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Discussion Starter #472
I went to the U-Pick-It today and got a transmission cross-member from an '82 Toyota Celica. It was the right width, even had the holes almost spaced correctly (within 1/4") and the right drop. I found a rubber cushion for it at NAPA, though I'd like to eventually find something a little more stout. I installed the cross-member and my custom Ranger/Opel driveshaft and went through the gears with the car on the jackstands. No vibration issues that I can tell!!

The only real issue I have right now is with the shifter. I'll have to do some massaging on that. When I tighten everything down it wants to slip out of 1st 3rd and 5th. I need to make a new face plate to recenter the gear pattern. Right now it's oriented a little too far towards 2nd, 4th and reverse.

Anyhow, I have a couple full days left to work on getting the bugs out. I want to spend next week cleaning the car and getting ready for the trip to Vegas.
 

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With the shifter being an integrated system, what, on the Opel, is affecting the stay in the odd gears?
Would a different gearshift make a difference?
 

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I went to the U-Pick-It today and got a transmission cross-member from an '82 Toyota Celica. It was the right width, even had the holes almost spaced correctly (within 1/4") and the right drop. I found a rubber cushion for it at NAPA, though I'd like to eventually find something a little more stout. I installed the cross-member and my custom Ranger/Opel driveshaft and went through the gears with the car on the jackstands. No vibration issues that I can tell!!

The only real issue I have right now is with the shifter. I'll have to do some massaging on that. When I tighten everything down it wants to slip out of 1st 3rd and 5th. I need to make a new face plate to recenter the gear pattern. Right now it's oriented a little too far towards 2nd, 4th and reverse.

Anyhow, I have a couple full days left to work on getting the bugs out. I want to spend next week cleaning the car and getting ready for the trip to Vegas.
Could the 'tilt' of the Opel motor be affecting the shift pattern by limiting its range in the Tunnel hole?

Not the case with yours but, when I used a Mustang shifter assy in my wagon with the Opel R-28 tranny the pattern was too wide and I had problems getting into reverse and 5th. I ended up using the 'ball' from the R-28.
 

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Discussion Starter #475
I think the problem is caused by the S197 T5's taller shift tower. I either need a longer pivot pin, shorten the tower or lower the pivot point. If I leave everything loose, it's very sloppy but works fine, but when I tighten the bolts it must pull the pin towards neutral somehow. I spent a lot of today fitting the transmission mount, but I plan to spend all tomorrow getting the shifter right. I think the shift tower on this model is taller than either the S10's or pre-2005 Mustang's, and since this transmission is normally remotely shifted, I suspect that nobody makes a pivot pin for it.

I've been taking test drives, and it's good that I did. On one short drive today I lost the clutch (lack of spring tension allowed the clutch cable to come loose from the clutch fork), transmission was popping out of gear and the bellows on the driveshaft wore a hole through the plastic fuel line and I was leaking gas. All on the same drive!! :ugh: The drive to Vegas ought to be interesting, lol.

BTW, 5th gear is going to be awesome on the highway. I was afraid that the Opel would be too under powered for the .72 OD gear, but it didn't seem that way at all. It's purely a highway gear though, no doubt.
 

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I don't know that my GT is giving all it's power (in fact I'm sure it's not) but my GT didn't like the .72 very much. It seemed like the engine was working harder even though it was running at a lower RPM. It seemed like I had the same, butt-dyno, power from 4th or 5th. And using 5th seemed to need more fuel than 4th.
 

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Discussion Starter #477
Ok, shifter is working. 2,700 rpm @ 70 mph according to my (probably not very accurate) Opel tach. Nice!

Only one problem remaining, and it's a difficult one... a vibration. I said earlier that I didn't have any vibration problems, but that was with the car on jack stands. On the highway, they're there. It's pretty obvious looking at the pinion angles where the problem is... the engine and tranny are pointing down about 6 degrees while the torque tube is at zero. The pinion angle cannot be adjusted up, only down, by adding washers to the front of the torque tube mount. If there aren't any washers, then you're stuck at zero... the way the factory designed it.

I can't raise the transmission any further, as it's already as far as it can go without hitting the tunnel, so I'm a little stuck as to what I can do... especially since the 50th Rally is in six days.

Two possibilities I wonder about:

1. Does anyone make shorter engine mounts for the GT? There seems to be quite a bit of clearance between the oil pan and crossmember, and lowering the engine slightly would raise the back of the transmission.

2. CV joints are used on 4x4 to fix vibrations due to extreme driveshaft angles. I wonder if replacing the front U-joint with a CV joint might help? The driveshaft and torque tube angles are both at zero degrees, so the front u-joint is the only one with an angle to it. Normally, the remedy is to point the pinion up at the same angle as the transmission points down, so that the vibrations cancel each other out, but as far as I know that is not possible on a torque tube car without some big changes like longer trailing arms.

Anyone out there with experience in this who might have some ideas?
 

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So, in essence, you are saying you have the "Terrible" alignment?



I think I had a similar issue with my GM T5 and had to lower the torque tube to compensate. Your transmission seems to be sitting higher in the tunnel than mine does.
 

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Angle correction

You may have room above the T tube head and the body.May be able to modify your bracket to raise the end.We had to on the race car. Worked well
 

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Discussion Starter #480 (Edited)
So, in essence, you are saying you have the "Terrible" alignment?



I think I had a similar issue with my GM T5 and had to lower the torque tube to compensate. Your transmission seems to be sitting higher in the tunnel than mine does.
Yes, basically the "terrible" alignment flipped.

I had a similar vibration problem when I had my Opel 4-speed after I replaced my torque tube bushing, though the problem then was not as severe. I fixed it by putting weights on the driveshaft, well... basically two nuts each on one side of the u-joint clamps. Today I tried the same thing with hose clamps. I put one hose clamp around the driveshaft and rotated it in 45 degree increments until I found the spot that seemed to make an improvement. I then just kept adding weight at that spot until the vibration went away. Two clamps and a split washer as a weight did the trick. :haha: A Band-Aid, perhaps, but it will get me to the rally!

SO now that I have a good shifter and no vibrations, I went out on the highway. Wow! 3000 rpm gives me 75 mph. Makes it no problem to run with the big boys, and also makes you realize that everything else-- like steering and brakes-- needs to be up to snuff if you're going to run at those speeds. 75 mph is the freeway speed limit here in AZ, and many these days do 80-85 mph. It's actually a little surreal going that fast comfortably in the GT I've owned since 1973.

Even slight uphill is no problem for the O/D provided the speed is over 60 mph.
 
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