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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a taller valver cover for the Opel? Got the engine back from the shop and it doesn't fit right because of the new springs/rockers.

The good news today was I passed emmisions (credit opelbits)with my stock engine so i can get tags now.

c
 

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Calvin,

After reading your post here & on the ClassicOpel list, I kinda have to wonder what length valves & springs the machinist used. If you need that much clearance for the valve cover to fit, your rocker stud nuts must be right at the top of the studs.

I just finished my engine at my friends machine shop. The block now has 265 Chevy forged pistons(2.0) & the head was modified with aftermarket 1.84/1.50 Chevy style valves & Pontiac 400 springs, & hardened valve seats. The valve spring seats needed cut down to get the proper spring height & pressure. When we ordered my new valves we got the ones that were closest to the factory length as there were many lengths available. So I wonder if your valve length is a bit too long?

I know many of us have had machine work done & have never heard of anyone's valve cover not fitting on afterwards.

Tom C
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tom.

I am using 30 over 305 pistons; I am using the same spring and valve set up as you. (Mater a fact I might of swiped that from one of your earlier posts).

They cut down the valve spring seats to fit the springs also.

Sadly the machine shop is closed till Tuesday.

Last night I just sort of set the cover on top and then was amazed when it didn't quite fit. I didn't mess with it to much and the cover I tried was an old beat up boneyard cover and I am hoping that it was bent or something like operator error (grasping at straws here) or you just needed a taller cover and that was something that hadn’t ever been mentioned in any of the posts about the engine upgrade.

I am going down to the garage today and will see if another cover fits. I didn’t look at the rocker nuts to closely but I think there were threads showing....

I will paint the engine and put the odds and ends on the block like the dipstick holder and the oil pan.

If the valves are wrong we are going to go round and round till they get them right. I do remember watching them measure the stock valves.

I haven't started it yet s but for the $2000 I paid them, not counting OGTS stuff like126, for solid lifters, or the 475 for the crank (detroit), 78 for spring tensioners and rocker nuts, traded for new timing cover, gears and chain, 200 to have the cannons welded, ported and straightened…. Grumble grumble


Hmm I am looking at my bill and it seems I paid them once to "mock up rotating assembly/clearance for stroke and check piston to valve" and then again to "assemble and test long block" and since they measured and ordered the valves if other valve need to go in it is going to be at there cost. (Warming up and turning beet red).

What’s worse is on top of this the other half discovered that I had almost 8 grand total into this project so far (don’t ask me I couldn’t believe it either but my math is better than my wrenching) and I still have a getrag and a paint job to go, plus all those nagging little things, a bolt here, engine dress up stuff there… 10 G’s is what this is going to end up coasting….


To make a long story short thanks for the tip I will check on the valves size……… sigh.


Calvin




unhappy worried camper here in STL still sitting behind the wheel of a stationary Manta..... :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
eating crow

Good news for me. It was operator error. The valve cover that I tried to put on last night was bent and dented. A few taps with on it while it was on a board straightened it right out and it went on no problem. The other pristine cover went on also without a hitch. Plenty of thread above the nuts.

However they machine shop seem to think the knock freeze plug were an optional item and the envelope with my new flywheel bolts was empty… and the book says use new flywheel bolts..

thanks everyone for the advice and sorry to have bothered people over operator error..
 

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Ford 2.8 flywheel bolts (like an early 84/85 ranger) are the same as the Opel. Might find them at an autoparts shop on sunday or monday.
 

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Calvin,

Glad to hear the head wasn't messed up but just the valve cover. It would have been a shame if the machinists goofed up after paying all that money. BTW- I installed the Getrag & alum S-10 flywheel with my new engine rebuild. WOW what a difference. Smooth & easy shifting. You'll be glad you did too when its done.

Tom C

PS: Todd, you're not in Georgia anymore. You're in the incredibly salty winter roads of PA now.
 

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engine rebuild

What are the advantages(cost?) of using the chev 265/305 pistons in the opel engines. My Manta engine is tired, over 300000 and never been bored out. I am very reluctant to pay out the money for the oversize Opel pistons(me cheep). A list of part numbers for these rebuilds,pistons and valve train parts would really help. Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That is good to here about the smoother shifting. Until I work out the logistics of getting the getrag I will be going with a 4 speed with a short throw set up at least for the first couple of weeks..

I am debating using the 32/36 for the break-in Vs the DCOE dual webers...

That is after I get it in and then started. Not happy with the brakes. I have a leaky reservoir. Opelbits says change the seals first where I am for trying my other master cylinder and then taking the car off to be power bled. It seems the master cyl on the manta is on an angle and I almost think I have to raise the rear of the car to level it out. Brake powerwise it feels like I am pushing on the point of a pencil and not on a petal.

The rear end is making a little "rooarshing" noise to. That started on the way back from inspection. Suspect wheel cyl.

C

Nothing is getting done till Tue as I have to get a sleeve for the crank pulley to and a cam button.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
my version of a Legere 1.9 engine

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=8469

the pistons (buy the molly rings at the same time)

main bearing ms988l.25 $94.88 (OGTS is cheaper)
rod bearings 1173al $42.12
sh-1193s cam bearings 31.03
1.50 EX CHEVY your machine shop I paid $40
int valves 1.84 chevy your machine shop $40
valve seals- your shop $16
lifters opel GT source
flywheel bolts opel GT source
new timing chain opel GT source
timing chain tentioners opel GT source
timing chain cover (if needed) opel GT source
comp995-16 springs (dual) 105.61 must buy for v8
titanium retainers ----- $100 must buy for v8
molly rings for the above pistons get from summit when you order the pistons must buy for v8
crank 475 plus shipping there and back


Disclaimer
now mind you my engine has not run yet so don't buy a thing till we see if it works.

If you ever see me driving please note the engine in my Manta and all parts on it except the wheels and tires are 100% STOCK. I made that engine to use as a paperwieght.
 

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Thanks for the eng info, I can wait, eng still runs ok a little smoke and a little noise but I can live with that(have been). Now about those brakes. First if you have a leaking Mstr Cyl. I would replace it I have found it is not worth my time to rebuild one, this goes for any car. On bleeding yes power or vacuume is the best way. But you can do a fine job yourself. Bench bleed the Mstr Cyl first. This should remove all the air from the MC before it is installed.
 
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