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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, heres my situation, when i got my GT a rebuilt, never started, high compression 1.9L came with it. i talked to my uncle who i got the car from and he said he only rebuild the head, which he did right and by the book, but when he got the car the bottom end was done by someone else and he knows nothing about the quality of it. i recently brought the engine into my auto mechanics class at school and started bolting on intake/exhaust manifolds, started, alternator etc. and sometime this week i'll probably be firing it up (fingers crossed). so my question is, should i take a look inside to make sure that it was built right, torqued right and what not and what to look for, or just see if it will run as is, then if it won't go tear it apart?

also the origional cam is being used because my uncle couldn't get his hands on any other one at the time, the engine had about 75,000 miles on it when it was rebuilt, should the cam be ok?
 

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boomerang opeler
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if you have it out you may as well take a peep as they are a pig to do in the car :D
and as long as you use the same cam followers that were with the cam it should be ok
 

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I suggest at least checking clearances of bearings on crank. Can be easily done with plastigage. By doing this you get to also see the condition of the bearing surfaces and make sure the main and rod bolts are torqued properly. I did this on a "freshly rebuilt" engine and the head snapped off one of the main bolts. Glad I did this as it would have been ugly later.
This will give you some experiance with this proceedure and also some piece of mind.
Good luck.
Mike
 

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I agree with what has already been said on checking it now. I've taken motors apart to find that a previous builder really liked silicone. It has a funny effect on an oil pickup screen. A pan Gasket is cheaper than a motor failure.
 

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Remember if it is turning OK, but back firing through the carb, and you have aligned the ball on the firewall and the notch on the distributor.

Swap the wires, 90% chance the cars distributor is out 180 degrees.

Many an Opeler (Self included) have been there at startup trying to figure out whats wrong. If the swapped plug wires work, then your good. Motor wont know the distributor and plugs wires are 180 out.

Charles
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
alright, i think tomorrow i'll take off the oil pan and valve cover to make sure its all torqued down right and post what i find out after, thanks for the advice
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well i didn't get to it yesterday, but today i pulled off the valve cover, and good thing too... the rocker arms were just in there loose, i can't imagine the noises that thing would make turning over. i got them tightened down according to a book my teacher happened to have from 1973 with almost every adjustment for every import car of the time. the block is from a 69, but it has hydraulic lifters, didn't the 69's have solid lifters?
would i gain anything by changing them since i do have a set of solids laying around?
the procedure in the book said to tighten the hydraulic lifters you tighten until they will not rattle anymore, then one full rotation of the nut and your done, does this sound right?
i'll take off the oil pan tomorrow and see how that looks, sorry for all the questions, just never done more than routine maintenence on an engine before and wanna do it right. thanks
 

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Sounds like the later hydraulic cam and lifters has been used - no problem there either type will work just about as well and the year of the head makes no difference - unless a three bearing cam has been put into a four bearing head. Have a look when the rocker cover is off - there are the ends of small round plugs down between the rockers on the flat machined surface the rocker studs screw into. If there are four of these plugs, about 1/4" ( er! 6mm) in diameter, then it is a four bearing head. If there are only three it is .. a three bearing head.
Before starting the motor make sure the cam lobes are well lubricated with cam lube ( or a squirt or two of EP90 diff oil - if nothing else is available) and remove the distributor so the oil pump can be rotated with a long bar with a flat on the end ( just like the bottom of the distributor shaft...). You can use an electric drill to do this and just keep pumping till the oil squirts out on top of the rockers. You will probably have to "prime" the oil pump with oil through the blanking plug below the tensioner hex on the front cover. Some people swear by removing the oil pump cover plate and packing the gears with light petroleum jelly ( "Vaseline") to ensure that the oil pump will start pumping.
What ever you do PLENTY of lubrication around the motor is necessary before trying to turn the motor over and firing it up.
HTH
 

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I bought an already rebuilt (14 yrs earlier) engine off ebay for next to nothing. The block seemed to be put together properly......more than I can say for the head.....but the one thing I did check that was not done properly by the PO was the thrust setting on the crankshaft. The engine is still running (well) after about 10,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well i tore into the bottom end on friday and it all looks good except the bearings, the mains are ok, but the rod bearings are a little questionable, my teacher said that they will work fine and will probably have low oil pressure, but that should be it. my plan is to build a new engine from my other one i have lieing around with a little more power, i plan to have it ready to be dropped in in about 3 or 4 years, i have to do some other projects first. i know its kind of hard to tell how good they are without seeing them, but they have some scratches on them, they still fit right though... just looks like it ran a little low on oil at least once and they got scratched. the engine had about 75,000 miles on it and was never rebuilt before as far as i know, so who thinks they will work ok? or should i bother ordering some new ones?
i have no idea what the shipping will be from OGTS to canada...
 

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boomerang opeler
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id give them a bell and see how much it would be , might just be as easy to do now as in 4 years + at least you would have oil pressure then and thats 1 thing the cih likes
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
couple quick questions:
1) when you buy new bearings do they have a primer grey colour finish on them? because all of the mains are that colour without a single scratch, and 2 of the rod bearings are, but 2 of them are that colour with some scratches on them showing through to the metal, just wondering if the guy who built it replaced all but 2 for whatever reason.
2) to initially adjust the timing to get it running (not final timing), does the distributor have to be removed? if not then how is it done?
3) which way does the crankshaft turn on the CIH engines? so i can get the right firing order for the cylinders... whoever put in the distributor, in all their wisdom, just took a random stab at it and #1 and #4 cylinder's spark plugs are in the wrong spot on the distributor cap so i wouldn't trust the others to be...
thanks, just some more of the many little things i don't know...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
one more thing...
while i had the spark plug out to get the #1 piston to TDC i noticed something interesting... the pistons are something different, they aren't the flat tops with valve reliefs, and they aren't domed or dished, they are flat, with no reliefs and a ridge around the outside about 1/4" higher than the center of the piston, is the smell of the body shop chemicals going to my brain or do these seem odd?
 

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that would more likely than not be a dished piston. the opel 1.9 liter dish pistons are only recessed on one half of the pistons. the "half dish" is about a quarter inch deep, and your right, you woudnt see any valve relieves. i'm willing to bet this is what you are seeing.
 

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Dirt!

simplemind7 said:
couple quick questions:
1) when you buy new bearings do they have a primer grey colour finish on them? because all of the mains are that colour without a single scratch, and 2 of the rod bearings are, but 2 of them are that colour with some scratches on them showing through to the metal, just wondering if the guy who built it replaced all but 2 for whatever reason.

The scratches are cause by dirt - small bits of cast iron or grit that "guy" failed to remove before assembly! Have a look att he endsof a couple of those scratches with a magnifying glass and you may see the small lumps embeded there still.

2) to initially adjust the timing to get it running (not final timing), does the distributor have to be removed? if not then how is it done?

To gett he distributor in the "right' place it does need tobe removed and the oil pump drive slot lined up correctly too - the FSM shows all this set up in detail.

3) which way does the crankshaft turn on the CIH engines?
Clockwise - looking from the front pulley

so i can get the right firing order for the cylinders... whoever put in the distributor, in all their wisdom, just took a random stab at it and #1 and #4 cylinder's spark plugs are in the wrong spot on the distributor cap so i wouldn't trust the others to be...
thanks, just some more of the many little things i don't know...
Hope that helps you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
thanks alot, those answers should keep me busy with the engine for a while, maybe even have it running within a week or so :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
updates come with questions...

well its almost time to fire it up, everythings all torqued down, the engine is off the rebuild stand and down on blocks, everything bolted on and most things connected. but i'm stuck there without asking a couple questions...
1) before i fire it up or even turn it over much its probably a good idea to get oil all through it, so how do i go about priming the engine with oil? and how much oil does it take to fill the whole engine?
2) ignition ciol - to hook it up i know the center plug goes to the distributor cap, thats no problem, but then theres one that goes to the starter and one that goes to the distributor and another to the starter solenoid, the question is which connecter on the coil goes to each of these, one of the connectors is a male spade and the other is just a small post sticking up, i believe its the origional style coil, not 100% sure though
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
soybean said:
Brendon, Here's a thread for nos. 1 http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513&highlight=Oil+priming
Nos. 2 Do a search on distributor wiring. I've seen it, just can't find it. HTH, Jarrell
thanks for the link, thats what i was looking for. and i did search for the wiring before, but didn't come up with anything and tried again now and got nothing again, all i need to know is how to tell which side of the coil is positive... i'm sure someone knows off hand
 
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