[Knorm65]

take carb off and try again, if noise goes away it is somewhere in the carb, either carb gasket, or throttle bushings are leaking.

get out the 15mm box end wrench and try to torque down the intake bolts a little bit.

yes I mean where intake bolts up to engine. are you using this gaskets or rtv silicone for gaskets? I do not have much experience with using a heatshield but be careful with how good the seal is.

Also there is the T coming off intake where brake booster hose hooks up, there should also be another small tube for hooking up to the valve cover. there might also be another fitting on opposite side of intake for vacuum retard on distributor. look for any of these to be not hooked up.

these fittings are dependent on year. might all be on the T or 2 and 1. In your video at like the 7 second mark, you show the gap between carb and valve cover. the black hose you see should be going to the orifice fitting on the T, in the same frame, you can see a cutout in the heat shield, this is usually for the other vacuum line. this will be where other fitting sometimes is on the intake.

Yeah I need to give that a try. I have that gasket, I just haven't replaced it yet because I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the intake with that giant AC in the way. I use the OGTS gaskets with usually grease on them occasionally I'll use high tack gasket sealer, but I like grease better.
All my vacuum lines seem to be connected and working properly, I tested my brake booster and it passed the the test where you put your foot on the brake then turn the key.


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[Frozen Tundra GT]

heres a little diagram. ALso wouldnt hurt to disconnect and cap off all vacuum line hookups, just to eliminate these.

http://www.opelgt.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=1134

 

[Knorm65]

OK, so let's narrow this down a little.

It's NOT a leak between the intake and head.

So it's either a cracked intake manifold or a leaky carb gasket or a defect in the vacuum hose routing or a bad carb.

What on the carb could do this? How about the shaft that the butterfly rides on?
OK, not likely.

What IS likely is that the carb mating system is leaking.

You should have two gaskets and a heat shield between the carb and the intake.

It IS likely that it's leaking there.

Now, how do we know this? Easy. The whistle is on EVERY piston stroke which indicates it's connected to a central system. The only central system that makes sense is where the carb mates to the manifold.

You will be doing yourself a favor to check each of the four carb mounting nuts to see that they are snugged down. And possibly give each one a little extra tightening to see if the results change at all.

This is actually the first thing I tried. I removed the carb and heat shield and cleaned them both up really well then put on new gaskets. Put it all back together, turned the key, sqeeaaaaaaaaaaaal!!! Lol
I'll redo it again though. We aren't infallible


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[First opel 1981]

This is actually the first thing I tried. I removed the carb and heat shield and cleaned them both up really well then put on new gaskets. Put it all back together, turned the key, sqeeaaaaaaaaaaaal!!! Lol
I'll redo it again though. We aren't infallible


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What order are your gaskets?

 

[Frozen Tundra GT]

it is probably either this seal of the gasket or the carb has a leak. on my weber there are brass tubes coming off near the carb vacuum advance port. they have a screw in them rendering them unusable. maybe on other applications they are used for other purposes. remove the srew and they are another type of port???

maybe on yours a screw fell out, or the throttle bushings are worn, or maybe even idle jets are not turned in all the way.

carb cleaner and compressed air in the idle jets and passageway wouldnt hurt either.

 

[wrench459 (R.I.P.)]

A whole bunch of people over tighten the carb mounting nuts.
This can warp both the carb flange and even pull the threads up out of the intake manifold.
Get a good straight edge and check out the mounting surfaces.

 

[Knorm65]

What order are your gaskets?

The thin then thick from bottom to top



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[Knorm65]

You guys have been a lot of help. I'll try the things y'all said and hopefully I'll be able to pull the headphones out of my ears while driving lol


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[Frozen Tundra GT]

im not a fan of the heat shield. if youre feeling crafty one of these days, you can reroute your fuel line around front of car, and away from heat source. electric fuel pump is a good idea for under 100 bones too. with these two mods, you can eliminate the heatshield. being in kansas maybe not. e pump fills the carb efore starting, where the heatshield is to prevent boil over of the gas in carb. making hot starts real difficult.

in your case with exhaust manifold heat riser connecting to intake its almost a must to either do the conversion to e pump or use the heat shield.

 

[Knorm65]

im not a fan of the heat shield. if youre feeling crafty one of these days, you can reroute your fuel line around front of car, and away from heat source. electric fuel pump is a good idea for under 100 bones too. with these two mods, you can eliminate the heatshield. being in kansas maybe not. e pump fills the carb efore starting, where the heatshield is to prevent boil over of the gas in carb. making hot starts real difficult.

in your case with exhaust manifold heat riser connecting to intake its almost a must to either do the conversion to e pump or use the heat shield.

It's funny you say that that's was actually my plan this weekend was to route my fuel line in front of my radiator. I've been having some minor vapor lock on heavy acceleration



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[Frozen Tundra GT]

that might be your float level setting for the carb. well cross that bridge when we get there.

 

[Knorm65]

that might be your float level setting for the carb. well cross that bridge when we get there.

Yeah it only does it when I'm in high rpms on gear 2


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[wrench459 (R.I.P.)]

Yeah it only does it when I'm in high rpms on gear 2

I've leaned out after a shift.
Any idea of the AFR when this happens?

 

[The Scifi Guy]

I've been having some minor vapor lock on heavy acceleration

I can't see how that is even possible. Vapor lock while driving, with all that air and fuel flow? Usually our GT vapor lock or fuel boiling issues are only an issue during idling in traffic or during warm starts of the engine.

Jimmy may be right about it simply being that your fuel bowl is going empty due to the float being misadjusted.
It might also be a timing or vac/mech advance issue. I've made my cars have some funny/weak high rpm behavior when the timing is too advanced.

 

[Knorm65]

I can't see how that is even possible. Vapor lock while driving, with all that air and fuel flow? Usually out GT vapor lock or fuel boiling is only an issue during idling in traffic or during warm starts of the engine.

Jimmy may be right about it simply being that your fuel bowl is going empty due to the float being misadjusted.
It might also be a timing or vac/mech advance issue. I've made my cars have some funny/weak high rpm behavior when the timing is too advanced.

My timing is off, despite me getting it perfect two weeks ago. When it starts sputtering after a shift or on heavy acceleration the clear fuel filter will have no liquid in it, only fuel vapor...




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[First opel 1981]

My timing is off, despite me getting it perfect two weeks ago. When it starts sputtering after a shift or on heavy acceleration the clear fuel filter will have no liquid in it, only fuel vapor...




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That's probably not a vapor lock issue. More likely a fuel delivery issue.

 

[Knorm65]

Thanks everybody for the help. It's fixed now! If anyone else ever has this problem do this.
1. Change the torque or tightness on each bolt until you find the one that makes the pitch of the squeal change.
2. Slowly tighten that bolt until the squeal goes away.(do not over tighten! The heat shield, carb and intake are all sensitive to being over tightened.)
3. Try to make the torque on all bolts as close to equal as you can.
4. Go drive for awhile! The squeal might slowly come back. If it does a very very very slight tightening or loosening of the bolts will do the trick. ( I Had to tighten).
NOTE: If you have to tighten the bolts more than just a slight adjustment, go in a star pattern like you do with lug nuts


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[Knorm65]

Oh by the way I'm talking about the four carb mounting bolts on the weber carb


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[First opel 1981]

WOOT!!

I was correct again!!

And THAT, my friends, is why I'm an Uber Genius. (and extremely humble as well)




































Heh heh, just messin W/y'all

 

[Frozen Tundra GT]

I'm just glad you use your gift to actually help people versus tip toeing around the answer and toying for days with poor person with an issue.