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Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, after letting this project sit for 6 months without making any progress (mostly because it was unbearably hot in the garage) I worked a little on the ol' Opel this weekend. Namely, I fitted up the 3.4 60-degree V-6 and 4-speed manual S10 tranny on it. Except for the one spot in the footwell that I had already modified it appears to fit perfectly with the shifter lever coming right through the middle of th hole. Looks like I've even got room for my hydraulic clutch cylinder without much trouble.

One question about mounting it though- In the front I've fabricated motor mounts that employ 2 rubber transmission mounts from a big truck of some sort to hold the motor from beneath, but I'm thinking these alone will be pretty inadequate to hold the motor streight under load. I cant allow very much movement because as is, the Fiero exhast manifolds just barely fit between the fenders. I'm thinking that without some other modifcations, the exhaust is definately going to be banging the fenders when the motor is torqued. I'm thinking of just cutting a path for the exhaust through the fenders and attaching another brace somewhere to the top of the engine. But I'd rather not do that...

Anyone else who has done or seen the 60-degree swap- is there much issue with the motor hitting the fenders, and how was it mounted? Since I have my aluminum racing seats quite literally bolted directly to my floor pan and roll cage, It would be nice to not have the motor also bolted directly to the body else my butt might get a little too tingly.
 

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boomerang opeler
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jenson cars here used to use a small shock absorber in the jenson healey and gt (theres not ours) to stop the top of the engine rocking ,you could replicate this with a small shock from a mountain bike rear suspension just spend some time to work out the line of force so that the shock is in compression and not working as a swivel
 

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Here's the setup I made for Willit? You have to understand this was the third mod on the front crossmember so it is kinda rough looking. The rubber mounts are available from auto parts stores. I made plates that bolt to the engine and to the crossmember rubber mounts. When I grab onto the installed motor and try to move it, the whole car moves, they are that stiff, but sufficient to keep the vibes down. HTH.
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Actually, I made a part that looks almost exactly like that one, except I bent a 1"X2" .090" box tubing around rather than welding sections together, and I used a bunch of plate to reinforce the box holding up the mounts (prolly went a little paranoid there).

Maybe what I've got will work fine (pics tonight)... I was just looking at how little movement I would be able to have (like <.5") before the exhaust would hit the fender, and thought I might need something on top too...
 

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Neither of my exhaust manifolds come close to the fender. The one area of concern for me is the foot well, but the exhaust will only hit that area on a rebound from torquing the engine. Normal movement would be from static and rotating to the right or pax side of the engine. Getting off the gas quickly will cause a reverse torque movement to the driver's side where my clearance is the least. Looking forward to seeing the pics.
 

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Moderator's Note: Moved to the Engine Swap Forum
 

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Sporqster, it looks, from what I can see in the pics, that your engine is a lot lower than mine. My #1 exhaust port is above the steering shaft hole in the firewall. Could be that's where you problem lies. There's a couple of pics showing my custom exhaust manifolds and part of the removable heat shield I made to access the manifold bolts in my Willit? thread. I tried to upload them again but couldn't do it. HTH.
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've got the motor on a chain such that with some minor mods (like weld on another steel box on the mount) I could raise it up a bit more- but the hood latch mechanism hits the intake. How much clearance to the hood latch thingy have you got?

I have gobs of room for the exhaust on the passenger side, but I can shift the whole thing over there much because of the starter would then be in the way!
 

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I removed the hood latch mechanism completely. The reasoning was, for me, simple. I didn't need the bump in the hood anymore, so I got a Lenk Tuning hood from OGTS, now I have to figure a way to secure the hood when driving. Another little quirk that comes up a bunch, lately. My engine is up so high, I had to take out some of the wiper well so the plenum would have room to move and weld in some tubing and plate to seal it off, don't want engine bay fumes inside the car.
 

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This is exactly the thead I'm looking for.

I'm looking for a RWD chassis too receive my 3.1 V6. I currently have a 91' Cavalier with 400+ wheel HP, built, on and on, but the real issue for me is it's FWD, which sucks for any type of traction, and my choice of trannies is non-existant. The current 5-speed I use has blown 2 times in the last couple of years and I rarely drag race the car. I have the iron heads on my motor (just like the S-10), so swapping too a RWD setup isn't hard (Camaro 3.4 accessories and crap).

I'd like too also know the clearance on either side of the engine up high (since mine is currently turbocharged), but I was thinking an Opel GT might be a good package for me too swap too RWD.

Also, if you want too know anything about the 60 degree, I've done about everything you can too it, so I'd be happy too answer any questions you might have.

You can see the engine at http://www.turboz24.com
 

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Opeler
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Many people find the engine bay cramped and poorly designed in heat efficiency for Turbo's in regular gt's, let alone a v6gt, and if you could fit it all in, you would go through all the rear end parts and when you built those up you would most likely twist up the car pretty bad since its a Unibody, so you would need a roll cage and a lot of supports most likely. I beleive you would have a slightly easier/cheaper/better handling time using an Opel Manta, but I may be wrong.
 

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boomerang opeler
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almost bought a 2.5 ecotec today for my gt but cant get a key for it (they have a chip in them that matches the ECU so no good :mad: )
170 bhp out of the box and a 5 speed box with all the bells and whistles for $380 and i had to say NO:mad: :mad:
 

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Stan is real close to being right on as far as using a GT for your 400 hp motor. With my stock 3.4 and its 166 advertised hp, it's pushing the limits of the rear-end and not too far away from body twist caused by torquing the engine. In my Willit? update thread I believe there are pics of the engine installed in my GT after I made the cutouts in the driver's footwell and wiper well. You could run a "world class" T-5 tranny or the higher rated variants of it for your engine and it should stay together. The biggest problem you'll have is the starter, it's on the wrong side of the motor to fit in a GT. So you'll probably have to change the block from a RWD Camaro or Firebird for it to go in the GT. HTH.

Baz, check out my photo gallery for the pic on the theft deterrant module for Willit?, it may help. If You need more on that system I can send you the whole ball of wax (2 pages) I downloaded off the web a couple of years ago.
 

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boomerang opeler
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i will look ron but the system used here is classed as theft proof by the TWOC'ERS(Taking Without Owners Consent) (car thieves) here
i dont know if you have the same system but i will look for sure
 

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Swapping starter locations isn't a big deal for the 3.1. The place for the starter exists on the other side of the block, it simply isn't drilled and tapped.

The lowest the engine puts out (at 7 psi, mimimum wastegate) was 310.2 wheel HP and that was with upper rpm spark issues as well as a realllly rich fuel map (and very conservative ignition). I did fix those issues and cranked it too 16 psi (one reason why this tranny blew), however while setting the boost control it did hit 20 psi.

I'm just trying too find a sutable chassis for the motor. I've been considering several choices (even a kit car) and I want too use the 3.1 (considering how much work I put into it).

The suggestions so far...

Opel GT
70's Celica fastback
Monza
Miata
70's Sunbird
Bricklin
1st Gen RX-7

Just trying too fiqure out which one.
 

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boomerang opeler
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ron i have had a look through willit and could not see the pic you mentioned ,could you pop a link up to it for me ,thanks
 

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Baz, I copied the image location from my photo gallery, hope it is the right one. If not, it's in my photo gallery/GT/ VATS, it's a pic of the schematic. Here's hoping something will work. Well, copying the lmage location didn't work. Anyway, I'll try and send you the info via e-mail.
 
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