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344 Posts
Thanks for posting Ron.

Good read.

The only one that really used to get me is the broken bolt, then broken extractor.

I no longer use screw extractors unless I think the bolt is free enough to work. Always just drill it out, preferably with left hand bits. Sometimes they end up popping free. If I end up damaging threads too badly, then it gets a heli coil.
 

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Pedal Smasher
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So you should really make sure the cam is installed with plenty of assembly lube and run break in oil to prevent that. Right? And create a priming distributor shaft.
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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1,712 Posts
Use moly cam lube, not just plain assembly lube for new cams. Get your ZDDP up to the older levels of 1200-1400 PPM, either by buying the oils with it (the best method), or use an additive. One way is by adding 1/2 qt of Rislone Oil Treatment to 4 or 5 qts of SN rated oil; that will get the ZDDP levels up to around 1500 PPM.

BTW, with stock springs, an older cam & lifter set may do OK. Contact pressure between lifter and cam lobe is part of what 'activates' ZDDP and makes it needed. With low stock spring pressures and stock lobes, cams and lifters often survive just fine. But I'd not risk it with any new cam, and I'd certainly never run higher valve spring pressures or a more aggressive cam without the older levels of ZDDP.
 

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Vendor
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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, put me down for about the same. Esp the carburetor. Just can't stop fiddling with it and timing. :sigh: I just keep saying "One day I'll get this right" Jarrell
Actual photo of me trying to tune a carburetor. :eek:
 

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RunOpel
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1,252 Posts
That was a great read and so fitting for Opel restoration. I bet most of us can relate to several of those. I remember when I was removing the original manifold and rounding one of the inside bolts. What a pain in the rear that was. I wanted to severely kick my backside.
Thanks that was a fun read.
Dan
 

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Love the monkey shot.

This reminds me a a thread I read 10+ years ago related to misuse of tools.

It was very clever and kind of tongue in cheek. There was one about vise grips, and another that referred to a belt sander as the favorite tool that turns a minor job into a major job.

Would be nice if I could find it. I think it was on the Garage Journal.
 

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My all time greatest fear when working on cars is having a thread tap break off while chasing threads. So far, touch wood, that has never happened to me.

So now I need to search for various sizes of diamond tipped "hole drills", just so I can say I am prepared for Armageddon and the dreaded broken threaded tap
 
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Opeler
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Steel bolts into steal anything, that shear off, are never a problem for me as long as I can get a tig torch close enough to it to start an arc. But steel bolts through aluminum :cussing: The moron who thought that dissimilar metals, between fasteners and engine heads, was a good idea :aargh4: that fool should have been hung.
 

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RunOpel
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I totally agree with you Chuck. How in the world could anyone think its a good idea to use a steel bolt into aluminum.

Has anyone had a problem with the timing cover steel bolt that fastens one side of the alternator bracket? When I bought my 1971 Opel GT, the PO must of had some issue, because I have discovered that bolt hole was inserted with a Helicoil. That has been a pain in the royal behind :pat: I have used sealant on the bolt threads and sooner or later I get a slow oil leak.

Any suggestions of the fix, outside of replacing the timing cover???
 

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I totally agree with you Chuck. How in the world could anyone think its a good idea to use a steel bolt into aluminum.

Has anyone had a problem with the timing cover steel bolt that fastens one side of the alternator bracket? When I bought my 1971 Opel GT, the PO must of had some issue, because I have discovered that bolt hole was inserted with a Helicoil. That has been a pain in the royal behind <img src="http://www.opelgt.com/forums/images/smilies/pat.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Pat" class="inlineimg" /> I have used sealant on the bolt threads and sooner or later I get a slow oil leak.

Any suggestions of the fix, outside of replacing the timing cover???
That’s not supposed to be a thru-hole.

The PO must’ve drilled it out. It’s not uncommon for that fastener to become loose, and it often buggers up the threads. So while a helicoil is fine to repair it, you don’t want to drill through the timing cover to do it.
 
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