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Discussion Starter #1
Picked this '70 GT up last weekend, I will document the project here. My plan is to keep it mostly stock, but make it a driver not a show car. I have a '73 with a ton of rust which I was slowly repairing, and planning to drop an electric motor in, which will now be used for parts. This GT is already running and has pretty much all the parts, so I am currently planning to keep the original motor.The whole car has been rattle-canned black, but besides the passenger headlight there does not seem to be any significant rust!
 

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Über Genius
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Is that the one that's been on the market for over a year with the "Flintstones" floorboards?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Is that the one that's been on the market for over a year with the "Flintstones" floorboards?
Nope, I have seen that listing though!

Spent several hours yesterday going through the brakes. Rear driver's side was binding so it could barely drive without spinning out. After pulling it apart and putting it back together a bunch of times I finally realized it needed grease on the contact points. It can now drive without spinning or stalling out (at least at low speeds).

Unfortunately the brake pedal now goes to the floor. I was planning to flush the brake fluid, but when I had the caliper off, pumping the brakes did nothing. I pulled off the brake line from the master cylinder, and the first couple pumps got some fluid out, but then nothing (reservoir was full). Pretty sure this means I need to rebuild/replace the master cylinder. Planning to take it off today and see how the bore looks. I have a Geo Metro booster/cylinder that I may try to swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Finally took it out for it's first drive!

Turns out the brake cylinder was ok. I didn't realize you had to fill the reservoir past the screen filter before it goes into the left half, and it didn't help that the PO painted it black.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Carb is back on. Both throttle linkage grommets were missing; this combined with a super thick rubber floor mat was keeping the secondary butterfly from ever engaging and it was a little stuck. Forgot to add the driver's side grommet to my order from OGTS, so I 3D printed a replacement which is working well for now. Also got some hoses put together for the valve cover/"PCV" vents.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I did a test to see if it's possible to remove the horrible spray paint without badly damaging the original paint. The spray paint covers everything, including most of the engine bay. It has lots of bad runs and is chipping off in many places. I used a product called Krud Kutter Graffiti Remover on one of the headlight housings, and it seems to work pretty well. Once I find a better scraper I'll continue testing.
 

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RunOpel
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Jon I'm curious to know the Krud Kutter Graffiti Remover your using, are you using a scraper or just
a rag once you spray the stuff on to remove the spray paint? Also, are you experiencing any damage to the
original paint?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Jon I'm curious to know the Krud Kutter Graffiti Remover your using, are you using a scraper or just
a rag once you spray the stuff on to remove the spray paint? Also, are you experiencing any damage to the
original paint?
I have to use a scraper with it. (Actually so far I was using a piece of a coffee can lid.) It doesn't seem to be noticeably damaging the original paint, at least I haven't seen any coming off at all. It might be causing some scratches, but my plan B is sanding it down to the metal anyway.
 

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A sharp edge plastic putty knife might be just the trick. They work great on well painted surfaces without damaging the paint. They also make plastic razor blades that could be placed in the scraping side of a box cutter that would work.
 

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FWIW for smaller components I've found that Eastwoods rust dissolver works fantastic I let the parts soak over night or 24 hrs and all the paint peels and wipes right off and the stubborn stuff can be taken off with a wire brush or wheel :yup:
then I strain the product back into the bottle for future use HTH
 

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RunOpel
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I have had okay success using Goof off professional strength using a rag with good old
fashion elbow rub :yup:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the suggestions! It looks like those scraper blades are pretty cheap on Amazon so I'll give them a try. With the Eastwood Rust Dissolver, or the Goof Off, did it have any effect on the paint underneath?
 

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First, Welcome to AZ, you will like it 8 - 10 months every year !
I talked to Doug / slracer today, IIRC you are now in our extended neighborhood.

When I bought my GT close to 30 years ago it was Black, had been Orange before that, but Gold from factory.
So the engine compartment had also been repainted twice, but without much prep ( sanding ) so paint was peeling there.
When I restored the GT I tried scraping these 2 layers, but what worked best without damaging factory paint in all those places
around the engine etc. was duck tape wrapped around 4 fingers, sticky side out. Press the tape against the surface, pull the
old paint off with NO harm to factory paint. I recommend 3M Duct Tape, cheaper tapes are available, but 3M is best IMO
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Need help! I did a tuneup of everything past the coil, adjusted the timing and carb, and everything seemed to be running pretty well. Yesterday I drove it a couple miles to the chiropractor. 10 minutes later, it started back up fine, I made it halfway down the block and it died and wouldn't restart. I tried cranking it for a while, and a couple times it started to fire up, but if I gave it any gas it died instantly. Does this seem like a vapor lock issue? I have a clear fuel filter before the carb, and it had gas in it. Sometimes when cranking it, there was fuel entering the filter, but sometimes it was not getting fuel or there were bubbles entering the filter. After cranking a bit I pulled the fuel line off the carb and it sprayed out a little with what seemed like good pressure. I kept trying to start it over about a half hour period waiting for a tow and nothing seemed to change.

Any ideas what my problem is, or where to start lokking? I haven't tried to start it since then since it's on a trickle charger.
 

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Hit it with some starting fluid or pour some gas down its throat. If it fires you will know it is a fuel problem, could be the pump. Just an easy place to start.
 
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