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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,493 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My previous two general purpose threads about my car have gotten so huge that is time to start a 3rd one. My car now has a rebuilt, stock 2.4 engine with slightly bigger valves, and the Opel Motronic FI system made for the engine. It's a new year and the engine now runs in a new way, so now was a good time to give it a thorough cleaning.

Car Wash 2020
After a year of endless car work, my car needed a bath to get rid of the bazillion fingerprints, smudges, snipped wire ties, Spring tree pollen, spit from me cussing at the car, etc. So, cool pics that people seldom take of washing their Opel were needed to be taken. I only wash the car with water once a year in the early Spring, the rest of the year I polish it at every car show with spray "show shine" stuff. The pics at the end are of it just wiped down with a towel. I'll be chasing water spots for the rest of the year......

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Vendor
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2,637 Posts
Looks good. There's something rather therapeutic about cleaning up a dirty car.
Sometimes I can spend hours detailing the inside and out on my jalopies, but it always
feels like time well spent. Mr Miyagi knew this a long time ago. :)
wax on wax off

By the way, I always use a leaf blower to dry the car after the last rinse. Seems to eliminate a lot of those water spots.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,493 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Gordo's Throttle Body Wedge Mod

Some of you may remember that one of the things that was preventing my stock Motronic FI install from working properly was that the computer didn't seem to be able to handle the extra air that was coming in, as I transitioned from idle to run, due to the large aftermarket throttle body we were using. Charlie sent me a variety of Opel throttle bodies to play with and one big difference between them all and the aftermarket body was that all of the Opel throttles had "wedges" or "restrictors" on one half of the throttle plate that the aftermarket body did not have. I ended up putting the stock 2.4 throttle body that was made for my engine and everything suddenly worked perfectly. This video I had made shows the difference:


So, while I still had the aftermarket body on the car, the engine idled well, bogged badly or even stalled as I transitioned off idle, and then ran really powerfully once I managed to get it past that transition from idle to run. We figure that it was because the computer was expecting the air to be a lot more restricted by the wedge on the oem throttle plate as I transitioned off idle. It's a dumb computer that has very limited ability to adapt to conditions it's not expecting. So, now that I have the stock 2.4 body on the car it runs perfectly. But it's kind of slow. My present engine is a bone stock 2.4 with slightly bigger valves. My previous engine had 1/10th of a liter more displacement(2.5L) and too high compression that really required 102 octane race gas to run properly with the single side draft I was using. I didn't know that at the time. But it was fast as **** and spun the tires at the drop of a hat. I'm slow as **** now, no matter how many hats you drop. But, man, it sure did seem powerful when I had that aftermarket TB on it, albeit in the garage.

There's not a lot of stuff I can tweak to get more power out of this FI system. The throttle is one of them. Gee, if only I could put one of those wedges on the throttle plate and see if that eliminates the idle/run transition problem? The 6cyl 3.0 TB's throttle plate and wedge that Charlie sent me was just a fraction smaller than the aftermarket body's plate, so I removed the wedge from the 3.0 body and put it on the aftermarket body's throttle plate. It was really hard to get the screws that held it in place out because they had been peened over at the factory, so I had to drill them out. This went poorly and my drill bit skewed off center badly. Long story short, I compensated for the off-center holes and riveted the wedge to the aftermarket TB's throttle plate. It came out great! The throttle doesn't bind and there's no air leakage, so it should restrict 1/2 of the air through the TB during the first 1/4 of the throttle's rotation off idle. I probably won't put it on the car to see if it works until the Fall or Winter. I just want to drive my car and go to some car shows for the remainder of this horrible year.

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,493 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Adjusting My HID Tunnel Headlights.

The previous owner of my car installed 4" O.D. pipes in place of the flip over headlights. He cut out some of the belly pan and cut out the bottoms of the headlight buckets to give him access to things. He then cut slots in the sides of the buckets so that he could slip in and weld in place 2" angle iron to act as ledges to mount lights. The ding dong installed small PIAA fog lights where the headlights were and mounted big PIAA fog lights where the turn signal cans were. WTF was he thinking? No headlights or front turn signals, just 2 different sizes of fog lights.

Obviously this wasn't legal in any of the 50 States. After years of pondering the situation as I built up the car and considering all sorts of alternatives, I had to settle on using a Chinese 2.5" diameter mini-motorcycle HID headlights conversion kit. The HID bulbs were about 6"-8" long and ended with a screw thread like a light bulb. It was a challenge to come up with a way to mount them to some sort of right/left/up/down angle adjustable contraption that I could somehow mount to those angle iron ledges. I came up with the idea of using pieces of angle aluminum bolted together and configured to let me adjust the angles.

Which brings up my reason for this post. I hardly ever drive at night, but I have begun to think recently that my headlight angle was set too high and was blinding people with the "knife edge". HID headlights only have one filament that stays on all the time in either high or low beam. In order to have high and low beams, a mechanical metal flap drops down and blocks the top 1/3 of the light coming out of the bulb when in low beam mode. In high beam the flap flips up and allows all the bulb's light to come out. When some jerk off with HID bulbs, like me, has the angle set too high, like at eye level of oncoming cars, the flap causes a sharp delineation of light/no light at the top of the headlight beam that blinds and pisses off people coming at you. This is called The Knife Edge.

I don't want blind people pissed off at me, so today I performed the laborious task of re-angling my headlights. It's a pain in the ass. I have to remove my car's fiberglass grill and turn signal cans, then reach blindly a full 2 feet with both arms, through all sorts of metal work, to get at the up/down pivots bolts. I cussed and bitched like a long-tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs. But I did the dirty deed. The left light was substantially higher than the right one. I decided to lower and match up both of them so that the knife edge was roughly at the same height off the ground as the bulbs are on the car(about 16"). Pics of my garage wall show the knife edge.

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Über Genius
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9,020 Posts
That's still high.
If the light doesn't drop at least 1" in 50 feet, it will blind people when you are going over any slight bumps in the road.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,493 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
My aiming method is highly inaccurate due to unlevel driveway and too short a distance from a wall. The car only has it's front wheels sitting on the garage floor, which is level with the rows of cinderblocks, but the rear wheels are sitting in sunken areas of my asphault driveway and the car is leaning a bit to one side. The driveway is also an inch or more lower than the garage floor, so the nose of the car is slightly angling upwards. I tried as best I could to take these factors into consideration and adjust accordingly my more or less randomly chosen spot on the wall to aim the knife edge at. The real test will be on a dark, flat, country road with trees and signs, but no traffic so that I can visualize where the knife edge now is, then adjust as needed. :)
 

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Über Genius
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My aiming method is highly inaccurate due to unlevel driveway and too short a distance from a wall. The car only has it's front wheels sitting on the garage floor, which is level with the rows of cinderblocks, but the rear wheels are sitting in sunken areas of my asphault driveway and the car is leaning a bit to one side. The driveway is also an inch or more lower than the garage floor, so the nose of the car is slightly angling upwards. I tried as best I could to take these factors into consideration and adjust accordingly my more or less randomly chosen spot on the wall to aim the knife edge at. The real test will be on a dark, flat, country road with trees and signs, but no traffic so that I can visualize where the knife edge now is, then adjust as needed. :)
Sounds like you are doing your best.

You could take a presidential history creating tool and make a mark on the wall so you will have a reference point for when you readjust (if needed).

Many many years ago I had the official headlight adjusting manual as part of my, mostly useless, car literature collection.
It had a graph of headlight from floor distance vs headlight aim spot at (I think) 10 feet out. It was amazing to have perfectly adjusted headlights on my '65 Lincoln Continental.
 
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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,493 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I saved the "Fuel Injection" emblem from the '75 Opel I chopped up, so that I could put it on my car when I got the Opel fuel injection working properly. Well, it's now working properly, so it's time to put it on. My car doesn't need any more bling or junk on it, so it's small size is nice and discreet. I'm obsessed with right and left balance of things and I only have one emblem, so that means it has to go in the center somewhere. There's no room on the back of my car for a center emblem and I don't want it on the nose panel, so that leaves the hood. I tried it at the back of the hood, the middle below the hood window, and at the front of the hood. I chopped the prongs off and sanded it smooth on the back, then bent it to match the curve of the hood, and I will stick it on with emblem tape. Yeah, now that the yellow bumper is gone, I should consider removing the big yellow blitz decal, but the yellow dials in the yellow wheels, wiper, and rear eagle decal I have, plus the paint may have faded from the sun and the paint may be darker under the decal, so I'm going to leave it there. Also, big decals give your ride a race car look. I haven't stuck it on yet and I'm going to think about it for a while.

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Opeler
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984 Posts
Don’t force it on. Just because your car is fuel injected doesn’t mean you have to tell everyone it is by putting an emblem on your car that says it.

I’m in the “less is more“ camp though
 

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Über Genius
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Don’t force it on. Just because your car is fuel injected doesn’t mean you have to tell everyone it is by putting an emblem on your car that says it.

I’m in the “less is more“ camp though
Gordon is light years away from "less is more".
 
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