Those are some killer lookin headers Bob. Too bad they wouldn't fit on a GT...looks like it'd be too tight near the bottom.
Thanks. They won't fit a Manta either, not without cutting the floor! I made that header over a Saturday's worth of thrashing a bunch of years ago, for my hillclimb car that never got to see Mt. Washington. That car had the entire passenger floor cut out and reskinned for a concealed exhaust and extensive rollcage work. I can make this header work on the Turd, but it will have to have the floor modified to fit somewhat.ConreroGT said:Those are some killer lookin headers Bob. Too bad they wouldn't fit on a GT...looks like it'd be too tight near the bottom.
Thanks Ron, I'm very happy with the results relative to the time spent on this header. The collector is arguably the most important part of the header, so the fit and finish of the transition between the header tubes and collector is most crucial.namba209 said:Bob, you did it again. Absolutly fantastic!! One minor query, is it possible to run unequal length header pipes into the collector to make them equal length from port to inside the collector? Just curious if the flow characteristics are that critical. Just how long did it take you to figure out the lengths and bends to get the length of pipes that close? Really looks good. Take a bow.
I was concerned with the height relative to the sway bar, and that the width was narrower than the old header, which it is on both counts. I will still have to modify the floor, but not nearly as much.Travis said:Looks great Bob.
I'm surprised to see you built it out of the car like that. Have you done this enough that you know exactly where the floor is, or are you just not too worried as you're willing to cut the floor as needed?
Also, I've heard good things about reshaping the end of the tubes where they enter the collector to help minimize exhaust gas expansion as shown in this pic. Any thoughts on this?
That's who I borrowed the pic from. I'm a fan of their exhaust flanges, nice and thick...RallyBob said:But I've done the 'X' technique for years on all my other headers based on input I got from 'Headers by Ed'.
I'm using pre-bent 'U's' and 'J's', something about that $125K pricetag for a proper mandrel-bender didn't sit well with me....jeff denton said:Very nice. That one is much simpler than the hillclimb header. Questions...
Are you bending the tubes or using "U-build" header parts?
As the tubes enter the collector, aren't they supposed to follow the firing order around the circle?
Do you use "header wrap" to keep heat off the intakes?
Can you post a picture of the other side of the engine so I can see how you've got the block bolted up to the stand?
Lastly, how come the head is painted the same color as my engine?
Thanks, and keep up the good work!
It's a 1.7 head I got from an Opel racer from Florida. His color choice, not mine! He gave it to me fairly recently, it's going onto my 2.4 stroker shortblock for my wagon and it will have about 10.8:1 compression with dished pistons!jeff denton said:But what about the Terex green paint on the head? Is that a "Bob Special Head" by any chance? Painted to match my engine for any particular reason?
While mulling over parts selection for my 2.2, someone gave me a piece of advice. Gregg said "put it together and go have fun". I am not sure if that applies to this particular project, that's just what he said.RallyBob said:It's not exactly equal length (varies from 32"-36"), but far easier to fabricate and a better fit with the dual sidedrafts as well.
Hmmm, everything about this car is custom-fabricated though, so 'putting it together' is not that easy! One thing's for sure, this car will not be the sum of it's parts, I think everything on it is worth more than the car as a whole!madhatterpdc said:While mulling over parts selection for my 2.2, someone gave me a piece of advice. Gregg said "put it together and go have fun". I am not sure if that applies to this particular project, that's just what he said.