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Opel Rallier since 1977
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LOL.... good one. I think she is on to you and your shenanigans....

I am of mixed feelings on the HF gun..... a straight forward timing gun is pretty darned simple so I guess the HF one would be OK. You just never know on their stuff...

Now the limitation of that type of gun on these particular cars is that you can only see the BB lined up with the pointer in the engine flange when you are at stock timing.... which as you now know is for emission, nor performance. When you adjust the idle timing (called 'initial' timing), the BB disappears out of the 'window'; same thing ahppnes when you try to measure the mechanical advance vs RPM. So to use that simple type of gun to change the timing or see how far it is off of stock timing or how much it changes with RPM, you need to make a new set of degree marks on the pulley to view agasint the cast-in marks on the timing cover (easiest) or the flywheel (not so easy). In V8-land, there are items called timing tapes that are applied to a front damper/pulley at the front of a crankshaft. Here is what a comprehensive set of timing marks with a timing tape looks like and how to install them on a V damper/balancer. You can use these principles to establish timing marks on the front pulley of your Opel and reference them to a fixed mark on the timing cover.

If you don't want to add any timing marks, and you want to set timing other than stock timing, then you'll need a so-called 'dial-back' timing light. like dpre has. If the timing is not stock so that the BB is right by the pointer, then you use the timing gun and slowly adjust the dial until the BB does come into to alignment with the pointer. That is your true timing. And once you really know the true TDC (top dead center of #1 piston's motion in it cylinder), you can just put a mark on the front crank pulley right beside the cast-in mark on the timing cover and you won't have to mess with seeing the BB anymore.

Just be aware that dial-back timing lights often have problems with multi-spark discharge types of ignition systems. But your Hotspark # 3BOS4U1 does not look like it is one of those. I always use a standard timing light and establish timing marks on the pulley or somewhere.

Hope that helps more than hurts.;....
 

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Thank you Mr.Manta
I think I understand that so once cylinder 1 is TDC does it matter where I make a mark on pulley and cover ( 9 oclock 12,3,ect) as long as they are in line to each other
 

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You are 100% correct Terry. Get that #1 TDC mark established pulley to wherever; many (most?) of the stock AL timing covers have a cast in mark at about 1 o'clock above the pulley when viewed from the front. The 'wherever' can even be a homemade, sturdy pointer that bolts to the timing cover (and ends up in the same place when you R&R it). Below is a pix of one I made for a 340; the '0' mark on the silver bracket for #1 TDC when lined up with the notch in the damper ring. I added a timing tape (like in the video) after this pix for a wide range of timing visibility.

Then mark the pulley in at least 5 and 10 degree increments. If you take the crank bolt out, then you can pull the pulley off. (Careful, it is a bit flimsey, so don't pry on it with a big screwdriver.) Then sit it down and make some accurate angle/degree marks like the video shows of the timing tape. You want to go 10 degrees CCW
and 50 degrees CW from your 0 mark.

Auto part Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire
 

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OK gotcha I'll give it a shot next week Hopefully
I have some tranny leaks I need to tackle first
 

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Be sure to post in the Transmission group.
 
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Have you checked to make sure the mechanical timing advance is working properly?

Harold

P.S. I haven't read all of the posts, so my apologies if it's already been stated or someone else has already suggested that you check the mechanical advance.
 

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I switched to a Crane Electronic ignition. It has a wheel with four grooves cut out in it. It's actually an optical ignition. I put it on using the supplied instructions. That was a couple years ago, and no problems to deal with since. I would say spend the money and get a Crane optical ignition.

Bob
 

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Great advise thank you I did some research on the hot spark that came with stuff uninstalled with the car and have chosen to abandon it for now and will purchase something more reliable that work together. I'm thinking I will change the igniter and electronic ignition together as the one in the car now is I believe still the original and in my experience with electronic/electrical components if my ecm on my blower motor goes out and not under warranty I'm not spending the money for the module and put it on an old motor just to turn around and have to replace the motor later cause it failed. If that makes sense
 

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I never had a problem with the Hot Spark ignition in my ex Commodore C, and neither with the Fulmax system in my Commodore A. I suspect that the Pertronix, Hot Spark and Fulmax systems are made in the same factory somewhere in China (at least they look very similar to me).
 

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IF you choose to go with the Crane ignition system you'll want to make sure the sensor is adjusted properly. I opened up a hole in the top of a used distributor cap inside of the ignition wire terminal. It is much easier to verify the accuracy of the pickup installation.

Personally I prefer the Pertronix because of the ease of installation PLUS there is no external control module. A much cleaner installation. IMHO

Harold
 

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FWIW.. changing to a Pertronix III or any other ignition trigger does not change the timing, except for having to reset your initial timing setting.
So this would explain my higher idle then?
 

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Well I finally got up the nerve to start understanding this timing stuff and playing a bit.
I jacked up the rear end and set one tire on the car dolly and the other off and still on jack so I could rotate the tire.
Pulled all the plugs, numbered them and set aside.
Turned the tire in 4th gear until I could see piston #1 come up so I could find the dimple on the flywheel SO far so good.
Then I hit the pointer and bump on flywheel with brake cleaner flashed off with air.
NOW the tricky part how do I get the wife's toe nail polish way the heck down there LOL.
I ended up taking my 4 finger extender thingy and attached a silver sharpie to it and carefully guided it down to there and got them both marked. yippy
Put the plugs in and started it up to let it warm up.
Once warm I started messing with the light I started with the advance to the carb off and the hose plugged but port on carb open (Hope this was right)
It seems it's running at -10 degrees this way and idling at 900 then I put the hose back on and I'm running at +10 degrees If I'm saying it right and back to 1300 rpm.
SO good news the advance seems to be working properly?
I'm out of time today to continue Which is good I'm tired hot dazed and confused LOL
OH almost forgot what kinda idiot starts there opel up in 4th gear on car dollies LOL shoulda stopped there LOL
 

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From the 73 fsm That Keith was kind enough to direct me to as I was looking over my notes this morning
2. Disconnect and plug vacuum advance unit and retard unit hoses. aha missed the last part
All the stuff I was reading yesterday, I should have been here reading as well.
 

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On a side note,
What ever became of our friend Dpre?
It's like he just vanished from the face of earth one day and was never heard from again.
 

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From the 73 fsm That Keith was kind enough to direct me to as I was looking over my notes this morning
2. Disconnect and plug vacuum advance unit and retard unit hoses. aha missed the last part
All the stuff I was reading yesterday, I should have been here reading as well.
Don’t keep us in suspense LOL, what were your results? Hoping for a happy ending to this chapter on your car
 

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Thank you Cub, I've out running service this morning so haven't had a chance to START OVER LOL
 

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Well I'm beside myself I have played and played and am no where closer than where I started
It seems to run smooth no pinging other then it seems the tap in cylinder one at rocker arms is louder than the others.
If I (try) to follow the fsm I'm right out of the gate screwed As no matter what I do I can't get the stinking idle to 900 and if I do the second I hit the gas the dag blame thing is back to 1300 again.
I'm frustrated and giving in to some cold ones until I can laugh it off (kinda)
I keep going back to the new ignition cause it started then.
The only other thing that maybe a coincidence is I'm pretty low on fuel and thought maybe the sea foam I added has somehow caused this ( doubt it though)
I have always gotten joy outa working on this thing but sometimes it's can be a real pain in the begonias
 

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It sounds like a sticky throttle or linkage to me.

My second thought is that the mechanical advance isn’t returning to its original position inside the distributor. Lift off the rotor and put a several drops of oil where the felt pad is inside the shaft, put the rotor back on and turn it clockwise and back until it freely returns back ccw. That should work on the dizzy side if I’m wrong about the throttle linkage.
Unless you regularly oil inside of the distributor the shaft gets sticky.
 

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After soaking on my thoughts last night. My thoughts brought me back to the inside of the distributor as well
I too was wondering if it was getting stuck and not able to return
I found this in the fsm

4. Oil sliding parts of breaker plate at “B”. Oil felt in cam at “c”. Apply a thin layer of high melting point grease to the cam, using a finger at “A”. See Figure K-14.

I've never heard of melting point grease. Is this something I can get at the parts store?
As far as oiling, The same oil I use in the engine or is this a different oil as well?
 
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