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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The pedal bracket is wallowed out to the point that I don't have enough adjustment in the clutch cable to make it work. Any suggestions short of replacing the entire mount would be appreciated. The additional brace that helps to support the clutch pedal side of the pivot shaft is elongated so just replacing that would be a temporary fix.

TIA,
Harold
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Blue Automotive tire Electrical wiring Gas Motor vehicle
Motor vehicle Material property Personal protective equipment Metal Auto part
Clutch pedal rod slop
 

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73 GT 1.9 manual fire glow orange drivetrain trimmed in dark metallic copper over satin black yippie
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Can you drill it out slightly larger and sleeve the bolt where it passes through?
 

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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Wow that appears to be a unique problem. How many miles on the GT, that is do you think it just wore out due to over use or was there something else that contributed to the problem. Good luck with the fix.....
 

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On McMaster, can you find a Oilite flange sleeve bearing with an ID the pivot shaft will fit in? I’m thinking that you could oversized the wallowed hole to fit the sleeve bearing. You could then solder a brass washer on the other size of the sleeve bearing as a retainer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
On McMaster, can you find a Oilite flange sleeve bearing with an ID the pivot shaft will fit in? I’m thinking that you could oversized the wallowed hole to fit the sleeve bearing. You could then solder a brass washer on the other size of the sleeve bearing as a retainer.
The shaft itself measures just under 14mm. I'd have to open the hole up quite a bit for the bushings that I've found.

Harold
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
The back story: Recently I've been working towards getting my blue GT back on the road after it's been parked with clutch issues. October 2021 the clutch pedal went to the floor while I was in Nashville. I drove it home and removed the clutch cable knowing that it had finally broken, I had made several adjustments over the past few weeks. To my surprise it wasn't broken and I had other projects that I needed to be on. I finally had a window open up to work on my junk. I have basically changed out everything BUT the car. Getrag with clutch lever from a wrecked GT, new flywheel with S10 clutch and a new clutch cable. The cable appears to be too long, same problem that I had before.

Harold

P.S. I just added a YouTube link to my first post showing the slop in the pedal rod.
 

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You have to shim that WHOLE gap between the screw thing and the pipe on the firewall???!!! Something looks rotten in Denmark. Where did all that slack come from? Have you investigated the tranny area where the other end mounts?

As a crazy fix, you could cut a pipe, with the same or close ID as the OD of that pipe on the firewall, lengthwise into 2 pieces and an inch or so longer than the firewall pipe. Put them over the firewall pipe and cinch it all together with hose clamps or some spot welds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You have to shim that WHOLE gap between the screw thing and the pipe on the firewall???!!! Something looks rotten in Denmark. Where did all that slack come from? Have you investigated the tranny area where the other end mounts?
I added a video link at the bottom of my first post.

As a crazy fix, you could cut a pipe, with the same or close ID as the OD of that pipe on the firewall, lengthwise into 2 pieces and an inch or so longer than the firewall pipe. Put them over the firewall pipe and cinch it all together with hose clamps or some spot welds.
I have thought about that but I really want to fix it correctly other than just making it work.

Harold

P.S. I'm surprised that you didn't offer the obvious solution, an Automatic. ;)
 

· Can Opeler
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I don’t have time tonight to check out the video, but have you tried adjusting the coarse adjustment at the bell housing? All of my GTs have lightened flywheels so I had to throw out the factory listed 3/4” or whatever it is. I treat the bell housing as a coarse adjustment and adjust it as necessary to get the c clips up top to lock in on the middle of the serrated sleeve.
 

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I don’t have time tonight to check out the video, but have you tried adjusting the coarse adjustment at the bell housing? All of my GTs have lightened flywheels so I had to throw out the factory listed 3/4” or whatever it is. I treat the bell housing as a coarse adjustment and adjust it as necessary to get the c clips up top to lock in on the middle of the serrated sleeve.
Ditto.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I don’t have time tonight to check out the video, but have you tried adjusting the coarse adjustment at the bell housing? All of my GTs have lightened flywheels so I had to throw out the factory listed 3/4” or whatever it is. I treat the bell housing as a coarse adjustment and adjust it as necessary to get the c clips up top to lock in on the middle of the serrated sleeve.
I haven't explored that adjustment as much as I should have but will. The video is only a few seconds long. :rolleyes:
Also, the red/white wire looks a tad crusty/fried.
That it is. I will also check into that, now that you've pointed it out.

Harold
 

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I just watched your video. Holy Crapp! You gotta fix that! Depending on how the leverage to the cable works out, that could be your whole problem.

No clue on how to fix that, few of us, if anyone, has any idea what's inside that welded on pivot assembly box. Do you have a junk GT(I know, stupid question, you've got lots of junk GT's) that you could slice that pivot box off of and then explore it for possible parts harvesting?

Here are assorted clutch/brake pedal pics from my parts book of fairly early model of Opels, no GT pics are shown, probably because they're not very disassembleable. I have swapped out the auto/manual double/single ended shafts in the past and it's a pretty decent PIA. Nowadays, on my auto converted cars, I just leave the manual shafts in place and remove the clutch pedal. The set up looks super simple, just a shaft, maybe some bushings, maybe a half-shell pivot. Your biggest problem will be how to get that welded on cover off.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I just watched your video. Holy Crapp! You gotta fix that! Depending on how the leverage to the cable works out, that could be your whole problem.

No clue on how to fix that, few of us, if anyone, has any idea what's inside that welded on pivot assembly box. Do you have a junk GT(I know, stupid question, you've got lots of junk GT's) that you could slice that pivot box off of and then explore it for possible parts harvesting?
I'm thinking that's 90+% of the problem.

I will see if I have a car with pedal assembly access and just cut all of the it off for dissection. It would be nice to know what all is there.

Harold
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
This looks like a wear & tear item that may start having its effect on us other high mileage GT drivers like myself. Following
I would say this could probably have been prevented by removing the shaft or at the least the pedals and cleaning & re-lubricating the pedal shaft. The nut was loose at the end, possibly because of the wear but.....

Harold
 
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