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Discussion Starter #21
Sway bar bushing I put together this afternoon. The bar is a 3/4" Kadett rear from Addco. Hopefully the road noise won't be too bad:)

-Travis
 

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Just as a side note, As me screen name says I'm an x dwarf car racer and I used a Toyota rear in it... Phil Hayes Engineering makes a floater rear w/disc brakes that can be narrowed to most any length....attachment points could be welded to the "cleaned" Toyota housing...I ran a four point suspension with coil-overs and could easily change pumpkins (gears) by just sliding the axels out....A floater also kept me from making a bad situation worse one night when I blew a mini-spool while leading the field....(only got a couple taps outta that one )...Sorry to digress...This is a very interesting thread...
 

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Discussion Starter #25
The new panhard bar mount. The shock mount has also been lowered a couple inches to keep the shorter springs from falling out and improve the shock effectiveness slightly. I'm not real happy with the support of the serated plate at the bottom but with the shock in the way I've not decided what to do. In the mean time I'll have to keep the bar in the upper half...which should be OK since the mount on the body hasn't been made adjustable yet.

-Travis
 

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Travis , is that a solid bushing on the swaybar mount or just a trick of the camera? I know nothing yet of these things so I was just wondering...
RITTER
 

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Discussion Starter #27
It's solid. The shiny silver is a single piece of 3/4" x 1-1/2" aluminum and the bronze colored piece is a 3/4" ID 1" OD bronze flange bushing. The bushing has been cut in half and one end of the bar was ground down a little in the 'flattened' section to make it all assembleable. It all bolts to the factory sway bar mount in the body.

-Travis
 

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Looking good... my .02 worth here tho...:D

I'd think it'd be possible to find some polyurethane bushings for the say bar that would fit, would make it a much better ride. Usually they're all pretty universal, should be able to go to a parts store that carries them and find something that would fit.

Also it looks like you could put a brace on the bottom of the serrated to the shock mount, at least that's what it looks like from the camera angle.

Looking good though, should handle great :)
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I already have poly bushing which mount up to the stock mount in the body. You'll notice that in my new mount the location of the bar has been moved froward. This is required to clear the third link mount on the body and for the arc in the middle of the bar to clear a high spot on the top of the toyota third member. To move the bar forward using a poly bushing would have required attaching the bushing to a heavy plate and then bolting the plate to the body. It would have only been slightly less work, would have more deflection, more stiction and tend to squeek.

The serated plate is connected to the shock mount both along the bottom and the lower right side. However, this doesn't provide a good load path to the axle tube as I have above with the triangulated setup(It's kinda hard to see)

-Travis
 

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Hey Travis, ro anyone else who has an opinion on the subject, I was just wondering why you chose a Toyota rear end. I'm guessing the fact that it is a front-loader is part of it, but what about the other factors? Are they stronger/lighter than say a 7.5 GM 8 bolt? Parts more available? Are they a typical Slip type diff?

I have to say that after some recent reading about the opel rear-end and the fact that Quaife doesn't make their ATB Diff for it any more, I am considering a rear end change myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
It was recomended by RallyBob. I verified that parts were available and inexpensive and I went for it. BTW, gears sets are ~$150 and numerous LSDs are available(cheap).

-Travis
 

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Bingo, you said it Travis. Toyota trucks have the best aftermarket support for foreign off-roaders, are durable in stock form (7.5" OR 8" types available), are a front-loader for easy setup and gear changes, are relatively light, plentiful in the junkyards (millions on the road), and have multiple gearsets available (3.73, 3.91, 4.10, 4.37, 4.56, 4.88, 5.13, 5.38, 5.71), and lots of limited slips to choose from as well. A rebuild kit with shims/bearings should cost no more than $70....on an Opel this will cost you about $400 for all new shims and bearings.

Bob
 

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Hey Travis,

If you wouldn't mind, could you explain where you attached the third link (the one that is replacing the original torque tube) or maybe take a picture of it? Are you mounting the link by somehow using the bolt-up locations which held the rubber donut?

I too would like to convert to a stronger rear axle, and that is the one concept that is confusing me.

Thanks for any info, I really like reading/learning about all this stuff,

Nathan
 

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Aye! I'd actually be VERY interested in seeing some photos of the end result as well. I have a very clear image of the lower links and the track bar, but I'm not sure how the upper link and the driveshaft line up.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I had been semi-intentionaly not showing that as I'm not real happy with the implementation. It's currently just a short link to a spot on the floor which I reinforced. I expect this winter I'll notch the floor and put in a longer link with an adjustable mount.

-Travis
 

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I'm sure you're probably busy on other portions of your project, but I thought I'd ask if you had made any more progress on the axle... so:

Have you made any more progess on the axle? *grin*
 

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Discussion Starter #38
The axle conversion is basicly done. I still need to bleed the brakes, install the proportioning valve and do some work on the e-brake. Unfortunately we've had snow on the ground for the last month or so and it won't be leaving the garage until spring. I'll get it out early spring and report back.

-Travis
 

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I'm considering doing a rear end swap in the future and was wondering if there is a shopping list of parts (items, years, what to look for, etc.) I need to acquire and instructions on what to do with them. I won't do it until the original fails but I'd like to start collecting parts so I can get good ones as opposed to I hope this will work parts.
I'd like to do this as simply as possible so can I do it without building a whole new rear suspension; meaning can I just weld all the pieces from an opel rear end onto a toyota and bolt it on?
Thanks,
Bodie:D
 
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