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Would you paint your Opel factory or non factory colors

  • I would keep it factory color

    Votes: 13 56.5%
  • I would paint it a non factory color

    Votes: 12 52.2%
  • I wouldn't paint it at all

    Votes: 1 4.3%
  • I would keep it patina

    Votes: 1 4.3%
  • I would do my best to give it a Gordon spin and fail miserably

    Votes: 1 4.3%
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I think there's alot of you on both sides of the fence on this topic.
To repaint original or change color to non original.
This maybe poll worthy so Ill start one
Well I have had a very interesting experience with my son in this unfamiliar but pretty exciting area.
Let me start by saying I nor my son have ever done any body work and certainly have not ever picked up a paint gun and painted anything other than rattle can stuff, Dare I say
( including my own gt) little parts and misc. stuff is one thing but never a whole car or truck.
I have turned over my 2000 dodge Dakota to my son and we /he especially, thought we should repaint it. ( how do I get myself into these things LOL)
So here is a pic of what we achieved We went back with the original metallic patriot blue pearl. BUT a member here turned me onto some gun metal pearl ( thank you member). That we added to the 1st 2 runs of clear coat.
Vehicle Grille Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Hood
Wheel Tire Grille Automotive tire Vehicle

What we didn't know was what happens when you do this.
And I gotta tell ya absolutely amazing results, completely unexpected.
This color scheme actually changes 5 different colors.
What starts out as blue goes to purple, green, silver, and finally black.
I liked it so much I'm considering painting the GT the same.
So I thought I'd share and get some feed back as I've seen some of you members doing different color schemes that look amazing.
 

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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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Do whatever you want for paint. McLaren often has some awesome color changing paints. Nissan had the Midnight Purple R34. Ford had the Mystic / Mystichrome paint job. I think I like blue and purple the most for color changing paints.
 

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Opeler
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That really turned out nice! Is that a DIY paint booth / tent? I am not a purist, and have never shied from using non factory colors. I have have a Chevelle that used to be purple, but is now a Corvette yellow. I had a "Candy" added to the clear coat, Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Hood on my next to last GT paint job. It would change my Turquois Blue paint to a Caribbean Green in the sun. The painter didn't fully mix the Candy and there were areas which pooled the Candy in a dark ribbon on body edges. So he had to sand and repaint the car. I wasn't into gambling on any additives, so I settled on my current color.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Getting touch up paint is my biggest worry when it comes to paint because I'm always modding and scratching my paint. I hate color changing paint because it's too hard to find matching touch up paint. I'm in favor of finding a commonly available color of paint you like. Definitely NO painted on stripes or 2-toning, removable stripe decals instead. If you need to do a repaint, painted stripes cause a problem.
 

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My take is that if I am going for an all-stock restoration I would go with the factory color but if I am doing a resto-mod with all the bells and whistles I would like to go crazy with the color. I went for an AC Cobra metallic dark blue (...not too crazy I guess). That just my two cents.
Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle Car
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That really turned out nice! Is that a DIY paint booth / tent? I am not a purist, and have never shied from using non factory colors. I have have a Chevelle that used to be purple, but is now a Corvette yellow. I had a "Candy" added to the clear coat, View attachment 436458 on my next to last GT paint job. It would change my Turquois Blue paint to a Caribbean Green in the sun. The painter didn't fully mix the Candy and there were areas which pooled the Candy in a dark ribbon on body edges. So he had to sand and repaint the car. I wasn't into gambling on any additives, so I settled on my current color.
Thank you krewzer. Your car turned out awesome as well
Yes we bought an enclosed mobile carport I guess is what you would call it off amazon, it's 20 by 12 .. Hind site It may have been worth it to by a party size one with the windows in it as I spent extra on lighting. But the lights I bought I can reuse to replace some lights in the office buildings and the string lights will be reused around the pool. And we a built a filtered fresh air duct system to keep fresh air pumped into it with a filter rack on the exhaust side to keep the left over, over spray under control. We painted this in our drive way so there was a huge tarp on the pavement and up the sides so I won't be cleaning concrete afterwards.
We decided to learn and do this ourselves because I'm an idiot LOL. We have other things we'll be doing so the idea was 1 Father son fun/project. 2, the money we would have paid to have this done for what we wanted would have easily exceeded the cost of the tools, materials etc.. And once were done we have all the tools, experience for other toys and projects in the future. So it is a win win in my book. And lets face it if you have a son or daughter willing to take something like this on and they have even just a little bit of mechanical skills why not encourage it? It's a very small investment in the big scheme of things I think. OH and by the way the pics shown of the bumpers didn't really show but all the mirrors, door handles and stuff were there too and was all done by my son who has never had a paint gun in his hand ever in his life time. I was pretty impressed to say the least. Here's a couple more pics he wanted the hole truck de-badged so the emblem on the hood was removed and filled.
By the way anyone doing there own body work and need some filler that has flexibility try using the U-POL 706 this stuff will bond to almost anything with out having to sand down to metal like the typical bondo stuff
Hood Automotive lighting Tread Automotive tire Automotive exterior Tire Vehicle Hood Car Wheel Atmosphere Liquid Hood World Automotive lighting
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Getting touch up paint is my biggest worry when it comes to paint because I'm always modding and scratching my paint. I hate color changing paint because it's too hard to find matching touch up paint. I'm in favor of finding a commonly available color of paint you like. Definitely NO painted on stripes or 2-toning, removable stripe decals instead. If you need to do a repaint, painted stripes cause a problem.
Yea I can relate to what your saying. And would make perfect sense if you had it painted by someone but since we did it ourselves it wouldn't be an issue. But your right if this was a truly color changing paint it would be an issue to try to blend if it needed touch up. In this case it was just a lucky effect of what we did so It could easily be blended or repaired if needed
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My take is that if I am going for an all-stock restoration I would go with the factory color but if I am doing a resto-mod with all the bells and whistles I would like to go crazy with the color. I went for an AC Cobra metallic dark blue (...not too crazy I guess). That just my two cents.
View attachment 436481
I thought what you did turned out awesome as well, that is a really nice shade of blue. I can't wait to see this one completed.
 

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Here's my GT's factory paint vs the modern yellow i chose for my paint job. In my case, no way I was sticking to original.
 

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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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I haven't used armor coat yet but for custom paint jobs, it's a product I've been thinking about. Depending on how "wet" armor coat will look, I do like the idea of a clear coat that can take serious abuse without any damage to the paint. This came to mind when I read Gordo's reply. If I can do something that prevents paint damage and I'm painting my GT, then it's worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here's my GT's factory paint vs the modern yellow i chose for my paint job. In my case, no way I was sticking to original.
I agree Vincent, Much better choice, we have so much more color options today then what was available 40-50 yrs ago. I think sticking with same base color just a more modern version of it still keeps our old cars looking like the same car from that era, just a little more vibrant
 
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The poll question is a hard one for me. I really liked the silver color my 75 Manta was when new. If I paint the 74 Manta, I would try to come close the the original color, but if I could find something with a slightly deeper texture I would go for it. But since the car is still sitting in storage until I clear my garage project list so I can change the wheel bearings before driving it around the paint project is a future fantasy.

Thanks for the story on your paint project. It might inspire me to do it myself someday. Cool color.
 

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Here's my GT's factory paint vs the modern yellow i chose for my paint job. In my case, no way I was sticking to original.
I agree, my 1970 is that horrible dirty yellow originally, no way is it going to be that colour! It's in lovely primer grey ATM, haven't decided on a final colour, favouring the pastel green/blue metallic colours you get on Porsche 911's.
 

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Opeler
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Yes, paint is very subjective. I love blues and greens, not too crazy about reds except on certain cars (like Gordo's). However, when you paint your car, you paint it for you (or spouse/partner), not me. So, you do you! I see some cars, and wonder about the color, but it's not for me...So, I remember that it would be a boring world if we all had the same color cars.
I am a bit of a purist, but lots of people make awesome mods. Let your inner artist come out.
 

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Opeler
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BTW- for a sub-discussion- clear coat vs. non clear coat- what do you prefer? what are the pros and cons?

I am not a huge fan of clear coat. I have noticed that after about 10 years, most clear coats start peeling/fading, etc. I Have seen good well cared for enamel and urethane non- clear coat last much longer.
 

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Opeler
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BTW- for a sub-discussion- clear coat vs. non clear coat- what do you prefer? what are the pros and cons?

I am not a huge fan of clear coat. I have noticed that after about 10 years, most clear coats start peeling/fading, etc. I Have seen good well cared for enamel and urethane non- clear coat last much longer.
I think that it is probably a function of the quality of the clear coat material used and of the quality of the application process itself. Clear coat applied under controlled conditions at the factory just has to be better than that of a body shop or a backyard painter.

For instance, in about1990, I had my GT painted in dark garnet red metallic with a clear coat applied over that. It was done by a local body shop that consistently produced show-winning cars in the New Orleans area. Within 5-7 years, even being garaged for about half of that time, the clear coat had started to cloud up and become checkered. However clear coats only began to appear on new cars a few years earlier, in the late 80's and were certainly not as good a quality as the materials of today.

In contrast, my wife's 2004 Mercedes sedan, which was never garaged in its 17 year life, was painted in a water-based metallic pewter silver with a clear coat and it looked just as good as new when she traded it in some months back. My 14 year old 2008 Merc daily driver also has a silver clear-coat paint job, has never been parked inside. and still looks great!

So, I have to say that all of my later experiences with clear coat finishes have been excellent.
Headlight clouding?:unsure:, that's another story!
 

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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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The below article is worth reading by everyone. It's very informative about paint.


After reading that article, it has made me change what I would want when repainting my Opel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Our plan is to do 2 clear coats with the gun metal pearl and 1 wet coat with out, then sand again with 1000 grit then apply 2 more coats of straight clear wet then 2000 to 3000 wet sand, then buff and polish. The problem the way I have understood it was with the 2 stage paints is the clear is what is supposed to protect the base coat from uv ect. And every time you wash and wax ( more so the wax part) you are taking a very fine layer of clear away. Well if you only do 1 or 2 light coats of clear it doesn't give you much to cut away. Of coarse the product your using as well plays a huge roll into this.
When I was buying materials and looking into this I found it interesting that the old saying " you get what you pay for " stands true. One of the clear coats ( same Brand) had a life expectancy of about 5 yrs where the "professional" version , for what ever that's worth was around 10 -15 yrs. but you could buy a different brand with the same life expectancy that would run you almost twice as much. Go figure.
 

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Opeler
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I think that it is probably a function of the quality of the clear coat material used and of the quality of the application process itself. Clear coat applied under controlled conditions at the factory just has to be better than that of a body shop or a backyard painter.

For instance, in about1990, I had my GT painted in dark garnet red metallic with a clear coat applied over that. It was done by a local body shop that consistently produced show-winning cars in the New Orleans area. Within 5-7 years, even being garaged for about half of that time, the clear coat had started to cloud up and become checkered. However clear coats only began to appear on new cars a few years earlier, in the late 80's and were certainly not as good a quality as the materials of today.

In contrast, my wife's 2004 Mercedes sedan, which was never garaged in its 17 year life, was painted in a water-based metallic pewter silver with a clear coat and it looked just as good as new when she traded it in some months back. My 14 year old 2008 Merc daily driver also has a silver clear-coat paint job, has never been parked inside. and still looks great!

So, I have to say that all of my later experiences with clear coat finishes have been excellent.
Headlight clouding?:unsure:, that's another story!
Well, in my experience, with 2 Nissans and 1 Toyota, the factory clear coat starts to cloud and or come off after about 10-12 years. Not on the whole car, but usually on the hood or roof first. Even with always garaging them at night.
 

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The clear on my Subaru Baja failed badly at the 12 year mark and our Tacoma failed at 8 years. I’m not impressed with bc/cc longevity so this article was interesting.
 
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