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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I lost first, third and reverse so I guess the syncro gear went. I can fish around and find second gear still which I used to limp home but it seems like 2nd is where 4th used to be.

That leaves me with a couple of questions.

How hard are the syncros to change? Can the average DETERMINED (do to financial considerations) all thumbs backyard mechanic like me change them?

Or is this something better left to a machine/trany shop…hence most likely cost prohibitive.

I see thy are about 60 buck OGTS

Is it better to just hunt down another 4 speed?

Right now I have 2 more I could try but since July I have already worn out two trainees with the gears just kind of disappearing.

I will have to say that the ones I have used up were both used and third gear ground from day one so most likely they were already on there way out.

I do some spirited shifting but have not been doing to many drag style starts since I pay for my own tires.

The two that I have left are also both of unknown, found in junkyard, quality.

Is there anyway to check them on the ground? A master setting of some sort?

Are the Getrags stronger/sturdier?

Since I want to eventually autocross and my car is very noisy anyway how strong is a Quaife? would it be a better fit than the Getrag?


What is the most durable transmission I can put in for the engine I have? (EST 165-170hp).

Driving in second gear in STL,
Calvin
 

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maybe not

First, third, and reverse, with second hard to find? sounds more like a linkage issue than a syncro issue to me. You may be able to salvage the tranny you have with some parts from the others and be back on the road by the end of the week.

Not that they're nearly as much fun to drive, but I wonder how an automatic would hold up behind your motor? I've got a couple of extras if you want to try it out...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks but no thanks to the Auto. The old lady can't drive a stick and I have been trying to get her to get rid of her Jetta for a GT with an Auto. If she could drive my Manta THAT would never happen.


Linkage hmmm..

I kind peeked under the car and it looked like it was in place. Still for the linkage to go what could of happened? Could I have lost the retaining nut on the drivers side would that cuase the gears to disepear?
 

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Calvin,

It does sound more like linkage. There is only one adjustment, which is the nut on the gear selector rod on the drivers side that you mention, and it merely centres the shift lever when in neutral (described as "adjusting the Reverse Gearshift Blocker" in the FSM). If the lock nut has backed off, I guess the "selector ring" (which is kind of a threaded collar nut that the linkage sits over) could have rotated out. But then the shifter would be way over to the left side in neutral. Where is it?

Or it could be that the pin that locates the linkage has fallen out or is worn out to an oval. That might cause it to be hard to select certain gears, but I would have thought it would be third and fourth (when the shift lever was over to the right side, and the selector linkage was being pivoted away from the tranny housing).

Or maybe it is the shift lever pin itself?

Or perhaps the shifter linkage (the passenger side linkage) has badly worn holes where the locator pins goes through it?

So start with the linkage before you drop the tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The left side seems to be missing. Second which is usually down and left if sort of down and central/rightish

I will get the car up on the jackstands tomorrow and start looking.

Hopefully the linkage can be adjusted without dropping the tranny.

for the last day or two prior I had been having difficulty finding reverse.
 

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5 Speed

I've got a big valve 1.9 with Gil's big clutch/Getrag conversion and it hasn't seemend to be problematic. My rear end whines though. The shift mount welding is pretty easy too. I made everything with a hacksaw and took it to a friend who welds with metal instead of splatter like I seem to.
 

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4ZUA787
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id say that u should drop the trans since it can be done in less then an hours time and then u could get a full look at it out of the car and then fix it or put in a new one. it is a sinch to take out a trans from a gt.
 

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Sounds like you've lost a couple of bolts from the trans to the bell housing. The trans will rotate and you won't be able to find 1st or 3rd.

Quick Check: put it in whatever gear you can. Then get it some gas. If the bolts have backed out, or gone missing altogether, the gear shift lever will twist over to the right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Linkage update.

Well I got the Manta teetering on jackstands and tried to see what I could find. It seems that adjusting the nut makes zero difference even if done by the book, which says put it in second gear, and then center it more or less.

I think there is a more serious problem because when you look at the passenger side linkage (which controls the up and back) from the passenger side when the car is in second the short arm (that the longer arm coming from the gearshift is attached to) should be at about the one o’clock position or a bit more than 45 when in second gear. The one in the car when in what I can approximate as second well goes to about three o’clock or almost 90 degrees.

After removing the console and upper boots I can see that the slide mechanism that the actual gearshift fits in is much to far to the left when in second. However loosening the lock nut and adjusting the control nut both all the way in or out makes zero difference it still stay way to far to the left.

On the best extra tranny I have on the ground you can not make it shift by grabbing the little arm at the front of the Trans and moving it as it is fairly secure. On the one in the car I can easily move it almost 90 degree’s.

Anybody have any ideas?

Under on your back in the driveway using jackstands conditions and no power tools
Is it easier to pull the transmission without the bellhousing or is it easier to pull it out as a unit?
 

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To easily drop the tranny in a Manta:

I used to use ramps and a bottle jack. but jack stands will do.

*From Inside of car remove console, to get to e-clip that holds pin which connects shifter and tranny, can be done from under side dirt always falls in my eyes, there's a spring there too.
* Jack up car and rest on stands.
* Place floor or bottle jack under Driver's side axle near the wheel. make the handle on the jack assessable from under the car.
* Loosen hand brake cable adjustment a lot
* Unbolt the rear U-joint nuts ( this is where the jack under the axle comes in cause the tire has to be rotated to expose the u-joint nuts.
*push drive shaft forward (in on the spring, to front of car) and swing away from yoke on differential end
* pull drive shaft out of tranny and remove.
*remove speedo cable and reverse wires at tranny
* remove the four bolts that hold tranny to bell housing
*remove the four bolts that hold the tranny crossmember to the underside of car
*before you remove the last one be prepared to hold up on the tranny, I used to prop my arm under it, then take the last one out.

*Now pull the input shaft out of the bell housing and set the tranny on the ground, its is kinda hard to do since it weighs 50-75 lbs and there's not much room for leverage, but not that hard.

If you know which wrenches, sockets and extensions you will need in advance (as in if you've done it before and don't have to make a lot of trips out from under the car) it should be about a 15-20 minute job.

So even if you've never done it before, 1 hour is reasonable. Try that on a new car!!!

Good Luck
Paul

PS
You'll need 13, 15, and maybe 17 mm sockets and combo wrenches.

Did I leave anything out folks. My memory, after turning 40, is not the best.
 

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that one bolt

If you have an old 15mm wrench sitting around, a cheapie 12 point combo with no particular high quality standard, then you might want to make a "special" tool for tranny removal. Clamp it into a vice and cut it right down the middle (easy with a grinder) into 2 stubby half wrenches. Clean up the sharp edges and label them as "special."

You'll appreciate the flexibility that a really short wrench can give against the tansmission tunnel. And both ends can be used, depending on what you need. Even at the cost of a new 15mm Craftsman, it'll be a real bargain.

If you had an automatic then you should also grind one down to about half thickness for the flex-plate bolts. They're a bear otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So if have this correctly I should leave the bellhousing in and remove just the tranny then.

Once I have the old one out anybody know how i would go about fixing the bad linkage?

"Or maybe it is the shift lever pin itself? "
That would be the one if front?

"Or perhaps the shifter linkage (the passenger side linkage) has badly worn holes where the locator pins goes through it?"

The locator pins are in the back?
 

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That Custom 15MM Wrench

One of the best things my older brother did for me back in the mid-70's (when I changed out my girlfriend's (now my wife) clutch on her GT, was to take an offset, combination, 15mm wrench, put the torch to it, and give it a 90 degree turn. I've still got this wrench, just for those two upper transmission to bell housing bolts.

Sometimes big brothers'll take time out from pounding you, and surprise the hell out of you by doing something nice.
 
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