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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
tranny

well i have a new tranny, tranny mounts and new motor mounts would love to throw them in i have heard a few ways to drop the tranny i dont have a frunt end loader so thats out so i was thinking if i disconect the tranny mounts and moter mounts take out the radiater i could use a cherry picker to lift and slide the moter and tranny forword and unbolt the top tranny bolts and then drop the tranny would that work i would like to do it tommorow so if you guys could help thanx
 

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if you just want to change mounts, its unnessasary to pull the motor and tranny. the tranny will be the easy one. put a jack and block of wood under the tranny, take the bolts out of the crossmember and the bolts holding the mount to the tailshaft, replace the mount and put it back together. you'll need a cherry picker or something of the sort for the motor mounts. loosen the 2 nuts on the motor mounts, lift the front of the motor up as high as you can go with it without messing anything up. there is one nut on the bottom side of the mounts, take em off and pull the mounts out, replace with new and reverse the procedure. if you can't pull the old mounts up because they hit on the steel mounts on the block, you'll have to take those off which can also be a pain. even more to put them back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i also want to put the other tranny in so will this work i dont have money to put it in a shop so have to do it my self
 

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sorry i missed the part about the new tranny. transmission are super easy to pull in these cars. you can pull the tranny seperate from the bellhousing, or as one unit.

support the back of the motor somehow, with a jack or cherry picker. disconnect the speedo cable and the shifter.

*(if bellhousing can stay on motor*) pull the driveshaft out, there are 2 "U"bolts holding the universal joint caps onto the rear axle. take off all 4 of the 13MM bolts, and you have to fight and wrestle them out of there...just find a way that works best for you because my way doesn't always work for others. .you can then pull the 2 bolts holding the transmission crossmember on the subframes. then disconnect the 2 wires going to the transmission for the backup light if they're hooked up. pull the 4 bolts that hold the transmission to the bellhousing. the top ones are not bad if you go through the shifter boot hole with a swivel and extensions, bottom driver side is easy, exhaust is int he way for the bottom passenger side. then tranny slides straight back out of the bellhousing......take about a half hour to an hour.

if you want the bellhousing off too just take the clutch cable out of the bellhousing and there 6 bolts left holding it to the block, pretty easy to get to. the top two bolts may give you hell, a shallow well socket and a swivel and 6 inch extension. you'll need to seal the tranny back to the bellhousing when you put it back together tho or you'll burn up synchros when the tranny leaks.
 

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let me know if you'd like to pull the bellhousing and transmission as one unit, i've done this once and find it easy, most people dont prefer this method tho.
 

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Another novice question here------
Ya all talk of trannies, but not rear-ends. Is the a rear-end
/tranny combination other than factory that gives better highway or street performance? I ask this because in the days of my first (other) car, a '69 Chevelle, I had a 273 (?) rear-end and she was a rear peformer on the highway, just not so much off the line.
Or is my ol' tired brain not remembering things right?
Dan
 

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If you have the fabrication skills and tools I'd highly suggest a Toyota axle conversion. Mine has been working quite well for me for the last few months. Between the selection of cheap gear sets, bearings and LSD's it has been well worth the effort. If you do the conversion I'd highly suggest the TrueTrac Torsen style LSD. It has been working very well for me...

-Travis
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i forgot i hade a clutch to put in aswell so i dont know would i have to pull it all out as 1 unit or could i pull the tranny then take off the bellhouseing and do it that well thanx for the help
 

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you can do it either way, it does not matter. there is just 4 bolts that hold the pressureplate to the flywheel, take those off and the pressure plate and disk falls out. be sure to take the flywheel off and have that surfaced if your putting in a new disk, or complete clutch kit.
 

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This subject has been around for a long time on the major Opel listservs. The easiest and possibly fastest way to change the clutch, and mounts, is to drop the engine/tranny out the bottom of the car. Granted you have to disconnect a lot of other stuff to do it, but the assembly is a lot easier to split outside the car and get everything back together correctly. The point has been made, if you don't get the paper gasket between the bellhousing and tranny right, there will be leaks and possibly more severe consequences. There are folks that claim to be able to get the assembly out in two hours. I don't dispute that, but taking my time and making sure everything was disconnected, I had my assembly out of the car in around 4 hours. The big thing is to label all the wiring to make sure it goes back where it's supposed to. A cherry picker and floor jack make it easy to do. I dropped the engine/tranny with the cherry picker and floor jack, then used the cherry picker to lift the front of the car high enough to slide out the assembly from the drivers side. I used two 1000 lb cargo straps wrapped around the front suspension subframe and it lifted the front of the car easily. Just my $.02.

Ron
 

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i dont pull the motor and tranny as one unit from the bottom. i pull the transmission first which takes me around 45 minutes to an hour. then after that just take the flywheel and clutch assembly off, disconnect exhaust, wiring, remove carb and linkages. take away the radiator and fan and then the motor can come straight up and forward at the same time. the waterpump will want to hit on the radiator support so you will need to spin the engine counter clockwise as you pull it up and forward......total time for me is about 2 1/2 to 3 hours. and keep in mind i'm 15 and probably have less experience than some of the other posters on here, but i do have access to a good assortment of tools, but i still dont use airtools.
 

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I've removed the engines a couple of times that way, but if you drop the assembly out the bottom, you don't have to remove any engine mounted parts to drop it out the bottom. You could even leave the manifolds attached if you can support the engine with a cherry picker. I had to spin my motor a lot and finesse it out of the hole by tilting it as it came out, but I still tore the hood seal at the rear of the engine compartment, twice. It's a matter of choice, you can remove all the stuff by crawling under the car and over the engine, or you can take the complete assembly out and disassemble as needed in a more comfortable setting. My V-6 assembly goes in nicely from the top, so I won't have to worry about that on this car.

Ron
 
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