Opel GT Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Quick question, we are in the process of removing the engine for rebuild and transmission for possibly a new one. Can someone tell me the best way to get the transmission out?


1. Need to remove the shifter
2. Do we remove the engine and transmission at the same time?
3. Or transmission first?

I appreciate any help!
Wendy

1970 GT
 

·
Member
Joined
·
328 Posts
trans removal

Shifter removal neccessary, clutch cable, speedometer cable, reverse light wires. Also are you taking it out from the bottom?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
jerseyopel said:
Shifter removal neccessary, clutch cable, speedometer cable, reverse light wires. Also are you taking it out from the bottom?
That's what I am wondering. Taking it out from the bottom looks the easiest to me.... :(
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,751 Posts
trans removal

Wendy;
Since you're going to be redoing the motor too, you can remove the motor/trans as an assembly and make it that much easier on yourselves, you can put them back that way too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,344 Posts
Wendy, if you got to my photo gallery (namba209), you will see a pic of one way to remove the engine/tranny combo. Note that the tranny shifter is still attached to the tranny, and the block of wood behind the rear tires shows how far the car rolled forward during the lifting process. HTH.

Ron
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Everything is now disconnected except for the clutch cable. We have it disconnected from the arm but it seems to run through part of the bell housing. We slipped out a small accordian thingy and another little metal part, now how do we get them to slip through the hole in the bellhousing so we can completely disconnect the clutch cable?

One way or another, transmission and engine are coming out together tomorrow morning. Can't thank you guys enough for the help!!!! :D

By the way, Namba209, that is some pic of it coming out! :eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,344 Posts
Wendy, unless the PO has modified the clutch cable, the end that goes to the throw-out bearing arm, or clutch release arm, however you want to call it, should slip right through the hole in the bellhousing, it is a snug fit but it should come right through it. If it cannot be removed for whatever reason, you could cut a slot in the outboard side of the hole to accomodate the cable itself but not the housing. But I would be leary of doing this and would only do so as a last resort. HTH.

Ron
 

·
OPEL-LESS!!!
Joined
·
2,116 Posts
if your pulling the motor and trans together, it must go out the bottom. only way to get the motor out the top is to pullit out the top on its own.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
greensmurf20 said:
if your pulling the motor and trans together, it must go out the bottom. only way to get the motor out the top is to pullit out the top on its own.
Untrue, I wish I would have gotten around to reading your post before we tried it though. About halfway through when we got the motor stuck where we couldn't get it up or down, I was thinking, no wonder everyone says go from the bottom!!!!

Anyway, I knew we should be taking it out the bottom but Dad didn't think picking the car up was feasible. :( So we did get the motor and transmission combo out the top. The clutch, rockers and bellhousing kept hanging up but eventually it did work. It is like the bellhousing mount is wider than the engine mounts. We ended up removing the rubber bushings off the motor mounts. That kept getting us, so really the motor itself has trouble coming out the top.

My advice? You would have to be smoking CRACK to do that again!!!!

BTW... I pics to prove it. :D Glad that's over!!!
 

·
Member
Joined
·
328 Posts
motor removal

So will it be going back in through the top?? I used to get the car up on jack stands that are blocked up, take car to two feet, and the assy. should slide in easily from the bottom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
jerseyopel said:
So will it be going back in through the top?? I used to get the car up on jack stands that are blocked up, take car to two feet, and the assy. should slide in easily from the bottom.
It better be going in the bottom!!!! :D
It is already on jackstands, not that high though. I am sure after all the trouble we had, that that is the way we will do it.
 

Attachments

·
Old Opeler
Joined
·
5,564 Posts
The mobile, agricultural, hydraulic hoist is probably tyhe only thingthat allowed you to get it all out through the top. Go easy on yourself putting it back in and slide the whole kit and kaboodle back in from under neath.
You will be amazed how much easier it is.
 

·
OPEL-LESS!!!
Joined
·
2,116 Posts
wow, never thought that'd be possable. i'm almost willing to bet your the only one to pull the combo through the top. i'm almost the only member here that pulls the motor alone throught he top.
 

·
Über Genius
Joined
·
9,373 Posts
The first time I pulled a motor from the top, I had to bend a little metal. If you ever have to pull the engine again. Or even to do a clutch job. Drop the engine from the bottom. Its AMAZINGLY easy. I will even list the steps in order for you.

Disconnect the battery!!!
Jack up the back of the car and secure it from rolling
Remove the driveline and plug the tranny.
Put the back of the car down and jack up the front enough to work on the top and bottom of the car.
Disconnect all of the wiring that connects the engine to the car.
remove the fan (not necessary but it helps)
disconnect clutch cable
Disconnect the speedo cable and reverse light wire if there is one.
Disconnect the throttle assembly
disconnect the intake/exhaust manifold assembly (15mm)
Pull the shifter boot
If you left the fan attached, remove the shifter. If the fan was removed, place the car in 1st gear
Connect a cherry picker to the engine near the #3 cylinder and tension the cable so it just starts to pull up on the car.
Remove the 2 15mm(sometimes 17mm) bolts from the transmission mount to the car.
On the motor crossmember, there are bolts, one on each side, that are hard to see that are up near the rubber motor mounts that connect the crossmember to the car. These should be removed first. I have seen them as 10mm or 13mm.
Then remove the 6 15mm bolts on the motor crossmember and the engine will drop almost straight down with a little movement to the rear needed.


Once you do it a couple of times you will see that you can "drop" the engine/trans in about an hour. That sure beats the 3-6 hours it took going from the top.
This method has a great advantage too. The motor crossmember and tranny mount act as an engine stand for disassembly.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,842 Posts
Either this weekend or next I will be pulling the 1.9 and getrag from the GT. This will be as an assembly out the top. I have no idea how many GT motors I've pulled but it's alot, I do know how many I've taken out the bottom, none. There is only one trick to it, pull the head first and it's easy. Normally I do this by myself and it takes about 30 minutes once everything is disconnected.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top