[Bosco2]

transmission seals...

Using a dye grinder I ground off the mushroom edge on the outside of passenger side transmission linkage (where shaft is pressed in) in order to take the linkage piece off and get to the seal on that side. I ground it down flush with the linkage piece and still can't get the piece loose from the shaft. Do I have to go inside the depression at the end of the shaft to grind some off around the edge of the opening?? I'm kinda stuck.......and don't want to get TOO carried away with the grinder without having a new plan of attack.

Any help appreciated.

 

[Jerry C]

Bosco,
Your not gonna like this, but the shift shaft is not made to come apart. The trans needs to be removed from the car and be disassembled. I checked my shop manual, other than the trans R&R the job don't look too hard.

 

[opelbits]

You're doing ok. The shaft is splined, so don't loose alignement (pin punch it or something). You might try a small puller. Don't get carried away, it will come off. just make sure you have the pivot bolt removed and the arm hanging loose/.

 

[Bosco2]

Thanks Bits.......

It's off. It needed a "puller" arrangement.

 

[garrymc]

For what is worth...When I replaced my side seals the trans. was out for a clutch replacement. It wasn't hard to do if you have the right size (small) punch to drive out a roll pin or two.

Garry

 

[72opelguy]

searchinbg the old books at my job i came across pre 75 auto - standad trans book and it has a full break down of the opel 4 speed and text anyone want me to cut it about and scanit on the site i will

 

[soybean (R.I.P.)]

In changing the transmission seals, I'm in the same spot as you were Bosco. The linkage will come off when I hit it with a puller, but now I'm confused. On the Tech tip that came from OGTS, it says "use 11 mmfine thread 1 1/4" long hard engine bolt for the retaining bolt" I'm totally lost. Does this mean use 11mm wrench size? I assume it would since an 11mm bolt would be pretty big wouldn't it? I'm lost in the metric world. Thanks, Jarrell

 

[pvcar]

11mm is smaller then 1/2 i believe im jus imagining sizes in my head right now but i no 10mm is about 1/4 or so if imthinking clearly.

 

[GTJIM (R.I.P.)]

metric/inch

Did my Toolmaking apprenticeship at the Imperial/Metric change over time here so I am multi-measurable!

1/4" = 6.35mm 1/2" = 12.7mm 1" = 25.4mm

so 11mm = 0.433" Just under 7/16" (which is 0.4375")

The key is the 1" = 25.4mm as any decinal inch size multiplied by 25.4 will give you the metric size. Thanks to my early training I can mostly do it in my head!

 

[Bosco2]

I believe it is 11mm head size.....it seems it was about the same size bolt as what holds the seats down, but longer.

The important part is to drill the hole into the end of the shaft as straight as possible. I looked straight down while i drilled and had someone else look straight from the side so as to keep the bit level. It drilled out fairly easily. Use a good tap and some oil.

Mike

 

[soybean (R.I.P.)]

Thanks Guys, I'll get some bolts this Am. Hopefully with a little help, I can get it in the Drill Press, drill it and get the last seal changed. Jarrell

 

[opelbits]

The correct specific bolt is:

M7x1x30.

7 millimeters thread diameter (11 millimeter head size)
1 millimeter thread pitch (1 mm is fine thread, 1.25 mm is coarse)
30 millimeters is the length from under the head to the end of the bolt.

 

[soybean (R.I.P.)]

The correct specific bolt is:
M7x1x30.

7 millimeters thread diameter (11 millimeter head size)
1 millimeter thread pitch (1 mm is fine thread, 1.25 mm is coarse)
30 millimeters is the length from under the head to the end of the bolt.

Exactly correct. Found it out this Am. I started out with a 1/8 drill bit, drilled 1 1/4" into the shaft. Progressed to 11/64th, then 15/64 for the final drilling. I used a 7mm x1.00 Tap to thread the hole. I used a 7mm-1.0 x16mm Hex bolt from Lowes (like a Home Depot), Grade 8.8 to finish it. A flat washer and lock washer underneath and it works great. Kind of hard to see in the thumbnail because of the black of the transmission in the picture. I must say it was easier using a drill press and having a 2nd set of hands to help. Also I was a little nervous about drilling it, but it works! Thanks for the help everyone, Jarrell

 

[Frozen Tundra GT]

getting ready to make an online order at OGTS are these seals something that should be done anytime you have easy access?

overall the tranny is in excellent shape, and does not leak. do i still have to replace rear gasket etc? i planned on doing the front cup seal and rear seal.

 

[saxybiker]

That's all well and good, but...

I can not get the stupid seals out. I called a fellow opeler and he said that he used a hook and pulled them right out. I used the strongest hook I have and pulled so hard it semi straghtened out and still can't get them to budge.

Any other "tricks" I should know? This is Vickie's car (Omi) and I have to get this done before Carlisle!

BTW - it has the original seals.

Allen Gage

 

[poor gt (R.I.P)]

Allen, try running a thin blade around the outside of the seal, see if you can get to pop loose.

 

[lowkey (R.I.P.)]

No offense but all ya'll are nuts.

Flip the trans over, take off the pan, knock out the roll pins, slide the shaft out, change the seals, put it back together.

There is no grinder in the fsm.

 

[poor gt (R.I.P)]

Lowkey, He has the shift lever off, he just can't get the seal to slide up & off the shaft.

 

[lowkey (R.I.P.)]

Lowkey, He has the shift lever off, he just can't get the seal to slide up & off the shaft.

That's what I am saying, you don't take the lever off. You slide the shaft out after you knock out the roll pins, and the seals pop in and out.

 

[poor gt (R.I.P)]

I would say most people do the gasket & seal change as per OGTS instructions, That being the removal of the shifter shaft on the outside of the gear box.