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Über Genius
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I don't know what the seals are made of but I've removed seals before by taking a drywall screw and screwing it into the face of the seal. When it bottoms out on whatever is behind the seal the screw will either strip or worm-gear the seal out.
 
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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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I am in the process of replacing my transmission pan with one of the newer after market units and while I am at it I would like to replace the two side seals - I understand the passanger side instructions and have already replaced that seal back when I had the transmission out of the car, in 1999, and there is absolutely no leakage. My question is can you replace the seal on the driver's side while the transmission is in place or does it have to be removed from the car to preform this procedure. The drivers side seal is leaking just a little bit, not enough that if I have to pull the transmission to change that I would go to that much trouble - I have the instructions that came with the seals from OGTS and the instructions do not specify transmission in or out to change the driver's side seal. Thanks all......Carl
 

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Detritus Maximus
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I did mine trans out, but I was doing other things anyway. I'm not sure if it can be done in the car. Maybe lots of tilt to get clear of the floor pan. Is the drivers side the one that needs grinding to get the linkage off? If so, you need the room for the drill and to work the tap for threading. And of course the side tilt of the motor means the drivers side is pointing up, not level.
 

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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I did mine trans out, but I was doing other things anyway. I'm not sure if it can be done in the car. Maybe lots of tilt to get clear of the floor pan. Is the drivers side the one that needs grinding to get the linkage off? If so, you need the room for the drill and to work the tap for threading. And of course the side tilt of the motor means the drivers side is pointing up, not level.
The drivers side is not the one that needs to be modified, the passenger side does, easy fix with the trans out of the car - On the drivers side, I got the first bolt off and started thinking about it - looks possible I just don't want to get half way through it and find out it won't work. So I figure someone will know if it can be done or not. Thanks, Carl

This is the side that I am talking about - can the seal be replaced with trans in place
437073
 

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I still have the seals I bought as well. Once I learned you had to dill and etc. etc. I let it ride.
I do wish it was an easier task though they still bother me when I think about it.
You know( I have the parts I want to install them) BUT
 

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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So I found another thread that someone made the statement that it was easy to change the seals with the transmission in place. No instructions but that was enough for me to give it a try. I would say that changing the passenger side with the transmission in place is not possible - just can not see how there is anyway to drill it out - unless that part has already been done, then no problem. The drivers side however is fairly easy to do - was a little harder for me as I could not get the pin to release, see picture, and instead had to remove two bolts holding the linkage to the body of the transmission which accomplished the same thing, just more work/time - the top screw could be seen from the shifter boot area but I could not get a wrench on it but was able to from the bottom, however it was a process that took an additional 15 minutes, the second bolt was easy to access with a socket wrench. The access from the shifter boot hole came in handy when it came time to insert the bolt, was easy to hand tighten from there.Then there is a nut closest to the front of the car that is removed and then a double nut that holds the linkage in place - once that is all done/removed then the old seal is removable and the new one went in fairly easily. I use a crow bar not for leverage, in the conventional way, but I was able to put the crow bar over, through that hole used to pull nails, the stud that the seal goes over and push with equal force which worked - using two screw drivers did not work. A piece of wood with a hole in it would do the same thing giving you the ability to exert equal pressure on the entire seal at once is the trick. Have a few pictures to help.

The first bolt and washer is the one that holds the backup light switch which, in this picture, partially hides the nut and double nut that must be removed to get access to the old seal, on the driver's side and to be able to install the new seal.
437078



The second picture shows a pin that I should have been able to remove but even with a hammer I could not get it to move and was not prepared to over do it perhaps bending the linkage or blunting the end of the pin. If this pin had come out then the next step/ two bolts to remove would not be necessary.

You can see where the part came away from the transmission when the screw was removed....Below.

437079



437080


This seal had a very slow leak and fingers crossed that this operation will eliminate that issue.
 
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