Opel GT Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I just picked up a '72 GT with about 50k mi that has been sitting indoors for 35 years. I am trying to spin the motor and haven't had any luck. I verified it's in neutral and even put a piece of wood to hold the clutch down. Drained the oil and it looked OK (black but no water). After I pulled all the plugs and put Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders, I first tried cranking it with a new battery. No luck, solenoid engaged but couldn't spin. Next, tried using the 19mm crank bolt (no fan belt) and a breaker bar, still no luck. Sprayed some PB Blaster in the cylinders. Loosened all of the rocker arms. Still nothing. Removed the starter and distributor and finally, nothing. Is it time to pull the head? I don't mind doing that but everything I see so far is telling me it should be clean inside. Under the rocker cover and around the timing chain look great, no corrosion and everything is wet with oil. I just want to see if I'm missing anything obvious before I dig deeper.
 

·
Just Some Dude in Jersey
Joined
·
15,194 Posts
Well, if you put it in neutral and verified that the rear wheels turn, showing that the engine is isolated from the wheels, then you should be able to turn it, if it's not seized.

Here's a thought: Put it in 1st gear and try to push the car. The leverage of the gearing may break the engine loose.

Either way, you're likely gonna need to take that engine apart, just to regasket the whole thing at the very least.
 

·
Opeler
Joined
·
87 Posts
Had the same problem with a parts car I had - did all the usual including rocking in gear, and could only get it to move about an 1/4 inch back and forth.
After removing from car found that the only way to free it was to remove the crank bearings - tried wd40 on bearings but that was not enough to free it.
 

·
Über Genius
Joined
·
9,354 Posts
Detail - Car sitting for 35 years
Symptom - engine won't turn over, even with the crank bolt
condition - engine needs to be dismantled as it's rusted in cylinder
Cause - water, likely from cracked head
Clue - indicated by car sitting for 35 years after being shut down at 50K miles.
Prognosis - replace engine
 
  • Like
Reactions: The Scifi Guy

·
UngerDog
Joined
·
1,311 Posts
Also try loosening the fan belt and seeing that the water pump pulley moves...a frozen water pump is something that can happen to a car that sat for 35 years, especially if it sat with water in the system instead of coolant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Try a REAL Penetrant....

WD 40 stands for "Water Displacement 40" (as in, the 40th trial, IIRC). It's not a great penetrant, and is an even poorer lubricant, long term.

Kroil, OTOH, is a great penetrant. I believe it's at least 60 years old, and came from the aviation industry.

Here is their website:

Penetrating-Lubricating Oils

The standard Kroil is what you need, but call them, they can help.

Make sure the back wheels are off the ground, or else drop the driveshaft
--as has been said (and I suspect they're right) the clutch is not releasing. If engine turns, and back wheels turn with it, then you have a frozen clutch.

My father has gotten numerous engines from the 'teens going, after decades, in old trucks--sometimes stored outside. And they don't need to come all apart. Sometimes, the head comes off, lubricant is sprayed, and a 2" x 4" is hammered down onto the piston tops, judiciously, to get things moving.

Please understand that penetrant may have to be sprayed FOR WEEKS before movement is obtained.

Also, consider how you can heat the cylinders, to break the cylinder/bore bond. Check with old truck collector society forums--it's very commonly dealt with in that crowd.

Good luck.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top