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Did some research and it looks like the Fiat guys have turbo'd their old Jetroncis-L/LE systems. Some good reading because they are dealing with the same problems the Opel has.
You might enjoy a more modern system.
One where you can control the injector timing more better..er..er..er..er
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
Did some research and it looks like the Fiat guys have turbo'd their old Jetroncis-L/LE systems. Some good reading because they are dealing with the same problems the Opel has. They are able to boost 5-10 lbs and are getting up to 50% more power.
However, 50% more power on a 1.9 Opel (assuming 75 hp at the flywheel) is only 112 hp. Not worth the turbo investment cost at that HP level!

With the right engine management, 200 hp is easy...assuming the pistons are strong enough. With the right parts 300 hp is easy too. However at that power level the OEM Opel drivetrain will shred.
 

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Opeler
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With the right engine management, 200 hp is easy...assuming the pistons are strong enough.
What do you think would be a reasonable horsepower target using a low-mileage, stock, low compression 1.9E? This assumes megasquirt which implies the elimination of the AFM.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Per post #22:

Depends on:

-size of the turbo
-boost pressure run
-intercooled or not
-condition of the engine (rebuilt or 200k old?)
-the tuning of the EFI by the owner

Old stock low compression pistons are weak, the ring lands break. With new pistons I suspect you could get up to 175-200 hp (from about 65 hp stock).

With forged pistons and forged (early) rods then 300+HP is pretty easy. But for that you'd benefit from some headwork and a decent turbo design cam profile. More flow from the turbo means you need to improve the airflow through the engine too.
Any tired old engine, even with good management, is at the mercy of the condition of the pistons. New stock pistons can take a pretty good beating. Old ones, not so much.

Forged pistons and forged rods are pretty unbreakable unless you do something foolish with the A/F ratios or ignition timing.

That said, an honest 150 hp at the rear wheels is pretty darn fast in a 2200 lb car. Any more than that and you'd better be sure your transmission, rear axle, brakes, suspension and driving ability is up to the task....
 

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I just got a header flange from you, but I'd like to be signed up for one of these too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I just got a header flange from you, but I'd like to be signed up for one of these too.
I'm not taking orders for these right now, but as soon as I have the custom parts I need I will post availability in this thread.
 
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
The turbo used in this manifold mockup is available for sale BTW. Brand new original Garrett, never run, only used for mockup purposes.

Garrett GT2860RS...also known as 'GT28RS', also known as the 'Disco Potato' turbo.
.64 exhaust A/R, T25 flange inlet, 5-bolt outlet. Capable of 330-350 whp with very fast spool up. Has an upgraded 8.5 psi wastegate actuator.

Comes with a 3" v-band outlet and connection flange, and a stainless v-band clamp.

Includes outlet studs and 12 mm copper coated lock nuts.

Includes a new T25 flange and stainless inlet gasket.



Also available is a stock Opel 1975 EFI intake manifold, a 60 mm Nissan throttle body, and a 2.4 Opel fuel rail (allows modern o-ring injectors to be used).

Contact 'Neuropel' directly via PM.
Just an FYI, but these parts have been shipped back to the owner, contact him if you're interested in a great turbo! Wish I could spring for it myself right now....:ugh:
 

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I'm not taking orders for these right now, but as soon as I have the custom parts I need I will post availability in this thread.
I'll keep an eye on this then, as I no longer get email notifications for some reason. Thanks!
 

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Just an FYI, but these parts have been shipped back to the owner, contact him if you're interested in a great turbo! Wish I could spring for it myself right now....:ugh:

Thanks Bob. If anyone is interested, I have the turbo as mentioned, as well as a '75 EFI intake set up with a 60mm Nissan throttle body with integral TPS, an Opel 2.4L fuel rail, and phenolic 2.4 injector plates that support the more modern o-ring injectors. I also have the 2.4 stock Bosch injectors, and a new pre-assembled megasquirt unit (PCB 3.57 from DIY Autotune) with sensors if someone is looking for a more complete setup.

As one might imagine, I'm taking a different route with the car, and no longer need these items. Everything is clean, new, and ready to go. Contact me via PM if interested.

Todd
 
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Hey, I was looking up turbo's awhile ago and found that Opel was going to make a Turbo add on for the GT, but they never produced it:banghead: At least the exhaust manifold would be nice to have.:yup: It also looked like it still had the stock solex and air cleaner with no intercooler. The stock weber 32/36 would be the same, can it Handel a small turbo with 7 to 15 boost on a built 1.9 ?
 

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Looks like I had several folks trying to contact me after my inbox was full. I cleared some items out so it should work now.

Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 · (Edited)
Got my quote from the metal shop to stamp out and form the pieces I need to build these manifolds. Hopefully I can have some of them built in time for Carlisle, though that depends on the delivery time of those parts to me.

For those interested, please PM me for the costs.

It looks like I will have it available three ways:

1) Direct fit to Manta/Ascona A chassis with a T25 flange welded on, 8 mm studs fitted, and locknuts supplied. Fits up to GT28RS turbo.

2) Direct fit to Manta/Ascona A chassis with a T25 flange welded on, 8 mm studs fitted, and locknuts supplied. Ceramic coated.

3) Direct fit for any CIH engine, except no turbo inlet flange supplied or welded in place. You source the flange, you source the turbo, you locate the flange, drill a hole and weld it in place to fit your turbo/chassis combo.


I will also have a preformed stainless steel heat shield for use with 1974-1975 Manta/Ascona crossmembers available. It protects the rubber engine mount. Early mounts will not be in as close a proximity as the later ones, and should not need a shield.

Thanks.
 

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Step 1: dream up sweet performance part.
Step 2: produce one example
Step 3: set up manufacturing
Cherry on top: three different versions.

Thank you sir! Most people stop at step 1.
 

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Step 1: dream up sweet performance part.
Step 2: produce one example
Step 3: set up manufacturing
Cherry on top: three different versions.

Thank you sir! Most people stop at step 1.
If your dreams come true, you can stop at step #1...ha. I'm assuming that to make this work on a GT, is going to be a handful, without having to persuade the passenger inner fender somewhat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
If your dreams come true, you can stop at step #1...ha. I'm assuming that to make this work on a GT, is going to be a handful, without having to persuade the passenger inner fender somewhat.
The manifold physically fits into a GT like a charm. The flange location for the Manta does not work out, at least not with a GT28RS turbo. However a smaller turbo should fit if the flange location were changed.

Edit: I have a GT2554 Garrett turbo that I can test fit into a GT once I get the prototype manifold back from ceramic coating. If it fits I'll take some pics and post them.
 

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I've been thinking about remote mounting the turbo on a GT.
The most likely area...in front of the radiator support.
 

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you do have a crazy head for this $h1t awesome work agan bob

how will the tranny and rear hole to it ? or what would one have to do to make it hold togather if not strong enough?

your the $h1t bob and in todays word that meens your good nice work ..:You_Rock_:notworthy:burnout:
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
how will the tranny and rear hole to it ? or what would one have to do to make it hold togather if not strong enough?
If you have a stock rear axle and 4-speed tranny, then I'd limit the power to about 150-175 hp. It depends on numerous factors though. The amount of torque you have (higher with a turbo than naturally aspirated), the traction you have (tires), the condition and age of the driveline, and how hard you drive it.

With a 5-speed and a limited slip rear axle you can run over 200 hp as long as you don't abuse it.
 
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If you have a stock rear axle and 4-speed tranny, then I'd limit the power to about 150-175 hp. It depends on numerous factors though. The amount of torque you have (higher with a turbo than naturally aspirated), the traction you have (tires), the condition and age of the driveline, and how hard you drive it.

With a 5-speed and a limited slip rear axle you can run over 200 hp as long as you don't abuse it.
What about the automatic though? I have been hearing lately that the auto holds up better than the 4-speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
What about the automatic though? I have been hearing lately that the auto holds up better than the 4-speed.
The automatics are indeed very tough. They use them behind 6-cylinder Opels that weigh over 3000 lbs in fact.

I plan to use a stock Opel automatic in our turbocharged LeMons racing Manta because an Opel 4-speed won't handle 24 hours of racing with 180-200 hp. Maybe 24 minutes....lol.

The important thing is to keep the transmission cool. A larger external cooler is paramount when running higher hp levels. And I like using synthetic racing ATF as well, it's more aggressive (clutches grab better) and it can take some serious heat.
 
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