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If a stock Opel cast iron flywheel is machined flat (to the bottom of the groove defining the high/low step), then redrilled ( six bolts, not four) for an S-10 Chevy clutch, it works fine. I've done that for many years. A little bit of material can be removed from the backside and the flywheel weight drops to about 14-15 lbs. Very streetable.Gary said:So can the step in the flywheel be removed and the stock clutch disc and pressure plate used?
The real advantage of the aluminum flywheel vs. the stock cast iron one is it can take a LOT more power and torque. You will never scatter an aluminum flywheel no matter what power and rpms you have. Cast iron has it's limits, and if you've ever seen a cast iron flywheel explode it is downright scary....I nearly lost a foot from such as explosion. Pieces of iron went through the bellhousing, through the floor, and halfway through the carpeting and hit my foot....couldn't walk right for 3 days from the bruising. Other pieces went through the hood!
So if you have a sub 150 hp engine and keep the revs below 7000 normally you'll be fine with the stock cast iron flywheel. But a 200 hp, 8000 rpm engine needs a bit more security than that, better stick to aluminum or billet steel. If you are drag racing (hard launches), using nitrous, or pumping a bunch of boost through a stock flywheel, think real hard about how much you like your feet and legs.....
Bob