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Updating the Headlights and Dash Gauge / Instrument Panel to LED

6K views 49 replies 17 participants last post by  kwilford 
#1 ·
Hello all!

Super exited to be part of the OPEL community. I finally got my 1973 Opel GT!

I am looking to update the lights to LED. I rarely drive the car at night, but I did the other night and it was a bit sad how dim the lights were.

Can anyone recommend the best LED replacement for headlights - links would be great! I am looking to replace the full casing of the headlights.

A friend sent me this link on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-PAIR-7-R...ADLIGHT-H4-LED-WHITE-BULBS-HL7LF/263497223390

And does anyone have any idea the LED replacement bulbs for the instrument cluster / dash lights? I have been all over and cannot find any replacement bulbs!

Thanks so much!
 
#3 · (Edited)
I am looking to update the lights to LED.
And does anyone have any idea the LED replacement bulbs for the instrument cluster / dash lights? I have been all over and cannot find any replacement bulbs!

Thanks so much!
Most of the dash bulbs are Ba9S (Single Bayonet 9 mm). There are LOTS of choices on eBay for Ba9S LED's. I have bought probably five types. The best ones so far are these, but LED bulbs are so cheap from China, it is kinda' fun experimenting

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Super-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

And some ARE moderately "dimmable", and the ones shown do dim a bit with the dash rheostat

And for clarity, that price is $3.38 for TEN (10!) not per bulb

And for further clarity, many of the LED Ba9S bulbs are a bit too large above the base to fit inside the gauge bulb holders, so have a hard look at what you are buying
 
#25 ·
The best ones so far are these, but LED bulbs are so cheap from China, it is kinda' fun experimenting https://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Super-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
For $3, ordered the 10-pack.

Specs claim: 12v and 0.5W. So that's 41mA.

They draw 41mA at only 11v.

At 12.6v, they draw 57mA.
At 14.4v, they draw 62mA.

So, once they're nearly fully bright, seems like their actual power draw doesn't actually vary much. I can notice a brightness change between 12.6v and 14.4v, but it's subtle.

I held them for maybe a minute and they didn't get hot, so, good enough for me.
 
#4 ·
Amazon has literally hundreds of the bulbs (LED). I guess it depends on the number of lumens you want. I bought some a while back and got them on sale. I got a pair of Symdevanma (7800 lumens) they have more lumen types available, just look on their site. Mine work pretty well, and they save on the amount of watts it takes to power them. Good luck in your search fore the best. I would say the "best" is in the eye of the beholder. I had to get some glass holders for the bulbs (OGTS), they were Halogen, but I needed just the glass part.

As for the dash lights, I looked for them, but could never find anything that would fit.

Bob
 
#6 ·
#14 ·
I found those gauge bulbs somewhere on Internet. Note, bulb in the clock is smaller than BA9. Not sure about bulb code or availability of LED type (my clock is replaced with oil temperature gauge).

I also installed LED CREE H4 bulbs in headlights. Rated 16000 Lumens, they are bright!
 

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#18 ·
Well, since it was my idea I'll start the list. Please don't use this information with utmost fidelity until it can be confirmed as perfectly accurate by someone else. Maybe Keith could confirm the info? Since he works all the time with GT's. Anyone else is moire than welcome to provide corrections.

A public service note about using LEDs in tail lights and indicators: it's best to use a LED that emits the same color as the lens, when the lens is yellow or red. When you use a white LED behind a red lens, only the red spectrum of the light will really pass through the lens. The result of using a white LED behind a red lens is an orange tinted light instead of a nice vibrant red. Even when the white LED has a significantly higher lumen. This has been tested by many people and YouTube is full of videos showing this if you really want to find out which color light to use. Also, it can become necessary to install a LED compliant flasher for your blinkers (indicators) to work correctly. Mechanical flashers operate off of specific current requirements to function as a switch and LEDs often don't require a high enough current flow to cause a mechanical flasher to, essentially, short circuit. Plan on replacing your flasher.

For use with US Spec GT's:

-Headlights: H4 bulbs for use with 7" round headlights, 2 are required. For LED 7" conversions, look into motorcycle kits as these are designed to be very compact.

-Front Side Markers & Indicators: 1156 bulbs are needed as the front side markers and indicators don't need to dim. 6 are required, 4 up front and 2 in the rear.

-Tail Lights / Brake Lights: 1157 bulbs are needed, 2 are required

-Reverse Light (before Manta tail lights): 578 Festoon bulb, 1 required.

-Gauge lights and dome light: Ba9S bulb, ? required. (I need to check this later, I have a complete spare dash)

-Tiny dash lights: ? need to check.


For use with Euro-Spec GT's:

Same info as above, except the front indicator lights are also driving lights.

-Driving lights: 4095 H1 bulb, 2 are required.
 
#19 ·
Well, since it was my idea I'll start the list. Please don't use this information with utmost fidelity until it can be confirmed as perfectly accurate by someone else. Maybe Keith could confirm the info? Since he works all the time with GT's. Anyone else is moire than welcome to provide corrections.

A public service note about using LEDs in tail lights and indicators: it's best to use a LED that emits the same color as the lens, when the lens is yellow or red. When you use a white LED behind a red lens, only the red spectrum of the light will really pass through the lens. The result of using a white LED behind a red lens is an orange tinted light instead of a nice vibrant red. Even when the white LED has a significantly higher lumen. This has been tested by many people and YouTube is full of videos showing this if you really want to find out which color light to use. Also, it can become necessary to install a LED compliant flasher for your blinkers (indicators) to work correctly. Mechanical flashers operate off of specific current requirements to function as a switch and LEDs often don't require a high enough current flow to cause a mechanical flasher to, essentially, short circuit. Plan on replacing your flasher.

For use with US Spec GT's:


-Front Side Markers & Indicators: 1156 bulbs are needed as the front side markers and indicators don't need to dim. 6 are required, 4 up front and 2 in the rear.

-Tail Lights / Brake Lights: 1157 bulbs are needed, 2 are required
On my 1972 Gt, I can confirm the above,the turn signals, (front and rear) the bulbs are 1157A or a. Amazon has them in stock. I got mine at O'Reillys. I did not change the flasher however. Jarrell
 
#21 · (Edited)
No, they are 1156 (single filament), as the rear GT signals are ONLY turn. 1157 bulbs are dual filament, with one being "normal" brightness (running lights) and the other being "bright" (brake light in this case, but on some cars is the turn signal).

LED's in turn signal service draw too little power to activate many signal flashers, even the "electronic" flasher that OGTS sells to eliminate the "double flash". One remedy is to install a bypass resistor, that allows a sufficient current to activate the flasher. That is what Gil of OGTS provides with their front signal/DRL/fog lamps. I also bought a bunch of the exact same ones on eBay for a few bucks.

The one shown is for the left turn signal circuit (I converted the single filament socket in the front curved lamp to dual, for signal and running lamps), and is duplicated on the right. Only need one resistor per signal side (I have LED bulbs in all the lamp sockets on top of the OGTS signal/DRL/fog lamps).

HTH
 

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#31 · (Edited)
No, I think he is referring to my post #3, and the link is http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...te-Light-Map-Bulb-Dome-Lamp-K001/311514322899

I just installed and tested that LED bulb in my dome lamp for the cargo area, and it is very nice and bright. The yellow glow is coming from a dome lamp I installed in the spare tire area, that currently has an old fashioned incandescent bulb, but I have an LED bulb coming in for it (uses a 31 mm double-cone bulb). I installed the same aftermarket dome lamp in each of the foot-wells, to add some much-needed interior light. They are all wired to the same "hot" and "door switch ground" that powers the cargo area dome lamp, so can be set to either stay off, come on with the door opening, or be on with just the switch. $1.99 each at Princess Auto in the surplus section
 

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#28 ·
Mike I wondered when someone would inquire :yup: and ask if this guy actually has an Opel GT or is it just some

picture from a magazine :ugh:

I know my garage is a little empty. Its on my to do list, update my garage and post some pictures and a little more details.

I do have a 1971 Opel GT which I was blessed to have found from an original owner that took extreme care. I have been slowly

restoring with new parts, seals etc. I'm currently a little over $4,000 into it (wow I hope my wife doesn't read this). Now I know

that's just chump change for most of you. Ever since I got the GT in 2015, I have been following this forum, reading all the posts

and researching past posts and learning a lot. I should have joined then, but procrastinated. I got frustrated when I couldn't see

photos, so I made the plunge and its been the best decision next to buying the GT.

Thanks for inquiring. By the way, I have learned a lot from your posts, so thanks.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Mike I wondered when someone would inquire :yup: and ask if this guy actually has an Opel GT or is it just some

picture from a magazine :ugh:

I know my garage is a little empty. Its on my to do list, update my garage and post some pictures and a little more details.

I do have a 1971 Opel GT which I was blessed to have found from an original owner that took extreme care. Ever since I got the GT in 2015, I have been following this forum, reading all the posts

and researching past posts and learning a lot. I should have joined then, but procrastinated. I got frustrated when I couldn't see

photos, so I made the plunge and its been the best decision next to buying the GT.

Thanks for inquiring. By the way, I have learned a lot from your posts, so thanks.



That's a Cool story Dan,, Glad you decided to Join Us.... Exactly as you stated,,, Couldn't see the Photo's ..We

Like Photo's HERE.... so you mean from 2015 until now...there not one photo's .. except your avatar you have
access to upload.

. Most Opelers are passionate and that the first thing they do... post photo's of project and get other members Inspired to help you on long the way... Am sure the rest of the Forum would agree... that's all ... to do list..profile update...heck,, your here all the time like all of us LOL :veryhappy.... Cheers, Mike
 
#32 ·
Dan your way to deep and a welcomed and very liked member to still be shy:lmao:
step out from behind your shadow and your opel and share:haha:
show us your opel show us your opel show us your opel :lmao::yup:


P.s. as a loyal member to this forum and all the fine folks here.
I vow not to tell your wife how much you have spent
Provided you don't tell mine as well LOL:yup:
 
#39 · (Edited)
Yeah Dan, Post some pictures of your GT. You are the man, always complimentary and always Good to hear from you. Funny Gil suggested many years ago to get a three ring binder and keep all the invoices form orders that pertained to the GT. Well I know exactly what I spent, and it's scary. I would recommend that you keep records of the parts you buy, it make a difference on classic car insurance (Hagerty). If you show the receipts, they will increase the value of the GT, that's important if something ever happens to it. My Ex wife knows I spent a lot of money on the GT, but that's way it goes, she tried to get the court to give her half of the value of the car, thank God I never put her on the registration. My present wife (my highschool sweetheart) knows that the GT has a lot of money spent on it, but she doesn't know how much. Word to the wise, keep your binder or receipts somewhere where they will never be found. You just never know what cards you will be dealt.

Bob
 
#40 ·
Those are very wise words Bob. I would strongly agree with you. Yes scary I have kept not only the OGTS invoices, but every receipt for the GT. I’m just a little over 4 years into it unlike you being an original owner and oh my goodness. I think I should follow your lead and go with insurance through Hagerty.
 
#41 ·
Dan, if you take your GT to any shows, the Hagerty people are usually there. I think they are great people to deal with. The cost for one year of PL, PD, and the agreed value of the car ($30,00.00) is $520 per year. In Nevada they cannot tell you how many miles per year you can drive it. My buddy lives in California and there's a limit to the number of miles you can drive it per year, but my buddy has never gone close to that amount of miles. He does not have a GT, he has a 1972 Plymouth Barracuda, outstanding car, excellent paint, and the interior looks brand new. He is usually a judge at the Redding Kool April Nites, the year he didn't judge, he got the "Best of Mopar" award. I thought that was pretty cool. I have been there every year with him, I don't think the judges care too much for Opel GT's. The only thing that makes me go back is a few people actually know what what kind of car it is. A lady is resurrecting one that she had, but never knew where to find parts. I turned her on to Gil, so now her granddaughter will get a first class vehicle. She asked if she could sit in mine, I said of course, she was in heaven. That alone made the car show worth while.

Bob
 
#42 ·
I tried various "collector car" insurance companies with "unlimited" mileage. I lied bigger each time I submitted an application for a quote. I finally just flat got turned down! State Farm let me insure for a stated value. I'm not knocking the previously mentioned companies as I've heard lots of good things about them but they're not big on insuring "collector cars" that are being driven daily.

Harold
 
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