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Opel Addicts
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In rebuilding my front end, I noticed that there is a fiber washer on the upper control arm that seems to be like a variable spacer. Can I replace that with 2 regular washers with a rubber washer in the middle (kind of a washer sandwich)? My Fiber washers are both split and I'd like something more durable.
 

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Opeler
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fiber washers

I ran into the same problum when I rebuilt the front end on my gt.I called ogts and they said they were not needed with there poly bushings.I put the bushings in and ended up with about a 3/16 inch gap.that didn't seem like it should be so I took it back apart and used 3 teflon washers with teflon grease inbetween each one fill the gap.working good so far.
 

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Thanks George. What size teflon washers did you use and where did you get them?:)
 

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Opeler
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fiber washer

I have a bag of them that was given to me by a van seat base manufacture that was going out of business.They are the same size inside and outside as the old washer but not as thick so it takes 3 of them to get the right thickness.A good hardware store should have them.If you can't find anything that will work let me know.
 

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Bikini Inspector
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when I had my exhaust done, they stated they could not complete my wheel alignment due to being so out of whack. And would need to spend some extra time on it. goes down the road straight! hmmm

I thought i read when doing the poly bushings, you no longer need the control arm thick washers?

Ill have to look again at my upper ball joints, pretty sure I set them up stock setting since I only did the 1 inch drop.

the washers that were on my car looked like a guy made them out of wood!!! cracking and splitting too. I threw them away. what should I do? I can post a pic of print out shop gave me.
 

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I thought i read when doing the poly bushings, you no longer need the control arm thick washers?
They are still needed.

The washers that were on my car looked like a guy made them out of wood!!! cracking and splitting too. I threw them away. what should I do? I can post a pic of print out shop gave me.
There are some small rubber washers that fill in the gaps on the upper control arm bolts. AFAIK, they aren't really needed. Would love to see the alignment print out.

Harold
 

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here ya go. Pretty sure upper ball joints are in stock config, and both are oriented the same for sure. I did not see any rubber washers.
I would bring the top of the left tire in and try to get the l/r camber more equal than what it is. The .2 might be in the red but I think I'd rather have that on a 'sports car'. I'd really like to see the caster on both sides not only equal but closer to +2°. If you can't shift the washers and get the caster you want you can always get someone to machine some wedges to install between the front suspension and the front sub frame.

Harold

P.S. Shifting the washers to adjust caster can be fun, :) Yeah, right! :sly:
 

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I don't know if this will help you or not, but this is the picture out of my 1970 FSM along with what I pulled out of my GT. It seems odd to me that the "rubber dampening ring" is only on one side. I'm assuming this is the same thing as the "fiber" washer you are referring to. Also, the stock "tooth washers" are different thickness. Changing the thickness of these washers (replacing/adding/subtracting) is the primary means to change the caster. The FSM calls out a 0.12" (thin), 0.24", and 0.36" (thick) washer to be used during adjustments.
 

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So should I go about this with Teflon washers from hardware store?
The rubber washers do not effect the alignment.

And how do I bring the top of tire in further? Isn't stock ball joint setting in as far as it goes without a RallyBob job?
You can do as you suggested and slot the holes or reverse the other ball joint and stand the wheel up straighter. The difference between them needs to be less than what you have.

Caster: The toothed washers that are used to adjust caster come in three thicknesses. Any two can be used as long as they add up to .48" total per upper control arm. From the factory the GT normally comes with a thick (.36") washer and a thin (.12") washer installed. To increase caster you'll want the thin washer in front of the control arm and the thin one behind it.

Without getting into a lot of detail and performance arguments on alignments, I hope my simple explanations will suffice. Positive caster makes it easier to keep the car headed straight down the road thus it helps give it a self centering effect when exiting a turn (the car wants to go straight). More caster helps with stability on straight roads but increases steering effort. Too little caster, the car steers more easily BUT you'll have to stay on top of it as it will be 'too easy' to change directions possibly making you a target for a DUI stop. :)

HTH,

Harold
 

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I'm going to say it, you need the washers. They are there for a reason, and they can be swapped out for thicker and thinner washers. They are steel and have the toothed serrations in them. I have plenty of extras plated that I can get to you on Monday. Without them I would worry that the upper a arms are being squeezed in too much.
 

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They are still needed.

There are some small rubber washers that fill in the gaps on the upper control arm bolts. AFAIK, they aren't really needed. Would love to see the alignment print out.

Harold
I don't know if this will help you or not, but this is the picture out of my 1970 FSM along with what I pulled out of my GT. It seems odd to me that the "rubber dampening ring" is only on one side. I'm assuming this is the same thing as the "fiber" washer you are referring to. Also, the stock "tooth washers" are different thickness. Changing the thickness of these washers (replacing/adding/subtracting) is the primary means to change the caster. The FSM calls out a 0.12" (thin), 0.24", and 0.36" (thick) washer to be used during adjustments.
The rubber washers do not effect the alignment.

Caster: The toothed washers that are used to adjust caster come in three thicknesses. Any two can be used as long as they add up to .48" total per upper control arm. From the factory the GT normally comes with a thick (.36") washer and a thin (.12") washer installed. To increase caster you'll want the thin washer in front of the control arm and the thin one behind it.

HTH,

Harold

I'm going to say it, you need the washers. They are there for a reason, and they can be swapped out for thicker and thinner washers. They are steel and have the toothed serrations in them. I have plenty of extras plated that I can get to you on Monday. Without them I would worry that the upper a arms are being squeezed in too much.
I don't think anyone has suggested otherwise. :)

Harold
 

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Bikini Inspector
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Okay, So I finally took the time to pop the wheels off to take some pics. The fiber/wood washers are the ones I threw away. Pretty sure they were crafted by previous owner, they looked to be cut from wood dowel. haha I put them back together same as I took them off. Note the Upper ball joint orientation too. What should I do? Drives pretty darn good as is actually, but obviously I dont want to ruin tires. just want to get it closer before I drive it to shop for alignment.


Reverse the passenger side upper all joint?
Swap washer config on passenger side?
turn in tie rods on both sides to bring in toe to right?


Driver side up first



Passenger side

 

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