Two bolts? there is a SINGLE long bolt that goes through both UCA (Upper Control Arm) bushings and the sleeve in the front suspension cross member. Once you get that bolt out (and it "usually" seizes into the sleeve, or into one or both of the bushing sleeves), just remove the two small bolts that attach the upper ball joint to the UCA (note which way it faces, as it is off-set) and remove the UCA. The transverse spring isn't an issue when removing the UCA, only the LCA.Al Olmo said:After removing the two 17m/m bolts at each side, what is the trick to remove the arm assembly? Thanks. '70 GT
Too remove the Upper Control Arm ( "A-arm") safely by the method Keith describes you MUST keep the weight of the car on the Lower Control Arm. With the wheel off, put a wooden block under the outer end of the Lower Arm and lower the car onto the block - securely!kwilford said:Two bolts? there is a SINGLE long bolt that goes through both UCA (Upper Control Arm) bushings and the sleeve in the front suspension cross member.
The transverse spring isn't an issue when removing the UCA, only the LCA.
Hmm, maybe Jim is right about that. It is certainly how the FSM describes its removal (except it recommends using the leaf spring compressor). But when I removed my UCA the first time, I thought that the spring motion was limited by the range of the LCA, particularly the leaf "perch". But maybe not, so follow Jim's advice and have the LCA supported.GTJIM said:Too remove the Upper Control Arm ( "A-arm") safely by the method Keith describes you keep the weight of the car on the Lower Control Arm. With the wheel off, put a wooden block under the outer end of the Lower Arm and lower the car onto the block - securely!
Then the Upper A-arm can be removed in the way Keith describes. The long bolt through the inner "legs"; which have the rubber bushes in them, through which the long bolt goes; is fondly known as the "Bolt from Hell" The passenger side one is usually rusted into the cross member and can take up to three days to get it out! Sometimes it is actually easier to remove the whole front suspension from the car so that this bolt can be more brutally attacked .... read the Posts! Look for "Bolt from Hell" in this forum.
Be VERY VERY Careful here! How have you "compressed" the leaf spring? Is it held up with a jack with the car on jack stands, or have you used a proper spring compressor. There are a couple excellent threads here (one by me, the other by Stanley P) on methods to remove the spring. Unrestrained, it will travel another foot (12 inches!) downward, and resembles (in a macabre fashion) a hunting bow. When you remove the two bolts that straddle the spring at the LCA pivot (the "perch" that Ron describes), the perch will no longer stop the leaf travel, and it will want to move far, and fast. And you also have to remove the "spring eye" bolt, that connects the end of the leaf spring to the end of the LCA. You also need to disconnect the tie rod end, but that should be obvious, as well as the lower ball joint as Ron says. The FSM suggests that you loosen the lower ball joint nut and (with the nut in place) hit the stud with a hammer. I had to use a tie rod puller to get mine loose.Al Olmo said:I've got the uper arm out, I compress the spring, got the absorber out but now the lower arm won't come out, the "bolt from hell" is out but the arm dose not drop, is there any thing else that need to come out?