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Driver
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For those of you who have gone this route, where did you get the studs? I have found studs that will fit at the hardware store, but with the high heat of the manifold how long would they hold out? Do I need ones that are intended for high heat applications?
Please help.
TIA:confused:
 

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Detritus Maximus
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I just used decent grade studs with a black coating (black oxide, maybe?). The trick is to use brass nuts, preferably the taller type.
 

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I did note the HELP! section (the orange carded pack thingys) at Checker had some stud kits with copper nuts. I don't know what the size was. May want to look around a bit or try Napa or an import store like BAP if you have 'em in your area.

Garry
 

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boomerang opeler
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opelenvy there's no reason the studs will not last as long as the bolts all they do is compress a gasket and then expand and contract when heated
and opelbits the black finnish is when steel is phosphated as a primer before painting which is a good thing as it wil give the studs a little rustproofing in a very hot place
and to garymc as long as the stud is metric and the right size and thread then just use it:D
 

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Driver
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
baz said:
opelenvy thers no reason the studs will not last as long as the bolts all they do is compress a gasket and then expand and contract when heated
My question is if there is a certain grade of stud/bolt that is better suited for the high heat and will not weaken and break after a while.
I believe I have found a source. Haven't gone yet but the place is called Austin Nut and Bolt and is supposed to have EVERYTHING.
Thanks all for the input.:)
 

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boomerang opeler
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4.5 newton / metre shear strenth would be fine

as it has to have some flex . you get them snapping if they are to strong
 

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One thing here, that I've said numerous times, and it will eliminate the broken stud syndrome, as well as the frozen nut problems. Any time you install a nut, bolt or stud, use anti-sieze compound on the first 1/4 inch of the threads. As you spin the nut or install the stud the compound will coat the rest of the threads and they won't sieze or break or strip again.

Ron
 

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Driver
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've already picked up a tube of the copper high heat anti-sieze stuff.:D
 

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Old Opeler
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Studs & Nuts

Got desperate and made them myself:D

Stainless 304 studs and brass nuts which are 1/2" AF hex size with 8mm X 1.25 pitch threads. Keep the nut hex small for clearance and use six-hex sockets for better grip - don't over tighten or the bras nuts will strip ... copper nuts would be stronger but a bit harder to find - may be used in electrical stuff??

Use Nickel anti-seize as it endures to a higher temperature than the copper type.

Don't use stainless nuts or they will weld themselves to the studs!
 

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Detritus Maximus
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PRETTY!!!

I learned the stud and brass nut trick when I worked on Alfas. Since the brass nuts cannot be tightenend as tight as steel nuts (the brass will strip out), they will need to be checked for tightness every now and then as they can loosen a little. Not a big deal, just check them. On the Alfas (when bolting the exhaust manifold to the head), we used slightly taller than normal nut then a 'half height' nut to 'double nut'. You put the first one on fairly tight, then the second. Then you tighten the two nuts against each other using two wrenches. Doing thi insures they would never loosen, but are still easy to take off even after years on the studs. And you never break a stud.
The Opels are a little tight to do the double nut technique, but I have never had a problem with single nuts loosening. This maybe due to the lower heat levels occuring at the head pipe to manifold flange compared to the manifold to head studs on the Alfas.

This trick is also highly recommended on any bolt/stud at any flange assembly on any exhaust system.

Plus, as an added option, you can get 8X1.25mm nuts with the flats being suitable for a 12mm wrench instead of the normal 13mm.
 

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Driver
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

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Driver
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Well I lost out on the bid for those stainless steel studs with the copper plated nuts so I emailed the guy who is selling them. The kit was for a Honda and included nine. I asked him about buying just six of them and trying them out. He is selling me 6 studs and nuts for $22 shipping included. After searching high and low here in Austin and not finding one source of SS studs, I am going with these. The guy selling these on his website www.ssstuds.com
Afer I get them I will let you all know what I think of them and how they work. Could be a good source for us. He is shipping them tomorrow and I will get around to putting them on after the holiday. I will keep you posted. I guess if they are good I will put an ad under Product Reviews
Everyone have a great holiday.
George
 

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Driver
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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Here is a picture of them.
 

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Been reading the posts about the exhaust bolts. I have used a product at work for many years called "Aerodaq G ". It is a
"(from the label)"... " a long wearing dry film lubricant of specially processed micron-sized graphite in isopropyl alcohol..... Typical applications include engine assembly,mating & sliding surfaces, tool gears, etc. "

-have used it on all types of threaded bolts , stainless for the most part. It allows us at work to remove stainless hardware(nuts & bolts, etc.) to be removed from molybdenum parts that are heated to temperatures to the point of 3000 degrees. -meaning white hot!!

The company name is Acheson Colloids Company
Port Huron, Michigan 48060.

--Bottom line, ...if you use some kind of graphite lubricant to spray on the bolts for the exhaust manifold,, you will most likely be able to get them out without breaking them. I've used them on my GT's, & for many other threads, wouldn't be without it. -some other versions of this type of graphite type lube would probably do the same thing.THink something was called Molydag 113, or something similar. My 2 cent's worth.
 

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Driver
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well I lost out on the bid for those stainless steel studs with the copper plated nuts so I emailed the guy who is selling them. The kit was for a Honda and included nine. I asked him about buying just six of them and trying them out. He is selling me 6 studs and nuts for $22 shipping included.The guy selling these on his website www.ssstuds.com
George
Go to the Honda/Acura link. I used the SS studs and the copper lock nuts. They are still working fine.
 
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