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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's finally in the car on the new fabricated subframes. I've got some trimming to do on the wiper well and maybe on the foot well. It depends on the custom headers I need to run the twin oxy sensors and 3-stage EGR valve. This is just a trial fit to make sure everything bolts up, and they do. Phase IV integrating the engine into the car electrical and building a fuel system will be next. I've already forewarned my neighbors, as soon as the headers are installed and I get it running, it will be going to the local repair shop for custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust from headers to the back of the car. Oh Boy! Oh Boy! Oh Boy!

Ron
 

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Ron,

Looks like you are getting close!

I'll get the pictures of the firewall/ wiper cowl that you requested tomorrow.

I am looking at the custom header route as well. Some simple "block hugger" headers would make life easier and would avoid running the exhaust towards the front and then back. Let me know how yours come out.


Nathan Acree
Albuquerque New Mexico
 

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V6 Transplant

I have tried to do the same transplant almost I used a 173 V6 2.8 chevy motor off a camaro and a t5 borg warner off an 86 s-10
However Im having so many problems

Can you help me or any one. I followed the tech files according to mike but nothing is going good.

The main problem is the cross member the original chevy motor mounts the brakets not the anchors wont work with the opel cause the mounts make the engine about 1-2 inches too wide to fit perfect. Please help

YOu can e-mail me so i can get your replies faster.

[email protected]
 

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Sorry wasnt too clear

The motor with gm mounts wont fit on the stock opel crossmember any suggestions i would like to drive my car
some day soon:D i have waited 4 years and now problems

Thanks for your help
 

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Iceman, as namba wrote, you will have to do some fab work for the fit. You can: make a jig using 2x4's to represent the GT's current frame. Clamp on the beef-up metal (1/16" or 1/8") and suspend the motor over it. set some pvc pipe and cardboard on it to represent the firewall and tunnel. Alot easier to measure and figure this way. namba may have some notes on his setup. The jig for my 71 won't be set up til spring, or I'd help ya out on the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
O.K. folks, here's some help, maybe for you. I sent the Phase II package to Gary last week. He has to massage it so it will work in "My Journal". There is a fairly comprehensive text, pics and drawings of how I made the subframes and engine blocks. Also how I screwed up on the first subframe. Gary is working on the package as time allows. Keep an eye out for it under Phase II in my journal. I'm working on the text and pics for Phase III, which is the trimming of the footwell and wiper well. As I said above I've got more trimming to do and when it's finished and working, I'll get in the journal also. HTH

Ron
 

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I am curious,
In doing this conversion do you have to cut the hood? or can you use the stock hood?

Thanks,
Chris
 

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Opel Problems

Well here is the thing im hoping to not have to fabricate one.

I could have it done but i am very lazy and i have no car my last one was totaled in a bad accident rolled over. Also the desert is very hot in the day so walking with the cross member to a shop to move the beams is out of the question for now

But according to my therioes i should be able to find another mount that would fit just right. so i would not have to move the beams that come up.
I could use the stock opel ones but i would need to weld the current holes closed and creat new holes or if i can find a hunk of metal

similar to the opels engine mount great. But i just may have to make a new one

I checked the clearance with the stock cross member and everything except the manifold fit great

Keep giving me advice guys i really apreaciate it keeps my mind working


No you dont need to use a new hood Unless yourr gonna super charge it/ or have a huge carb
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think I read somewhere in this site that someone did a similar transplant and did a mod to the original subframe. I took the easier way out and made new subframes. I used 1" X 2" square tubing, 2" X 2" square tubing, 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" square tubing, and some 1/8" X 2" steel strap. It sounds like a lot but it isn't really. I bought a lot of the square tubing to build a pair of dollies to roll the engine/trannys around on. The actual subframes probably took about 4-5 feet of 1 X 2. and some short pieces of the other stuff. I am not using the stock hood, I got a Lenk Tuning hood from Gil at OGTS. I have hopes of using the two front openings in the hood for air intake to the engine. I sent Gary some updates to the Phase II package that will show how I made up the subframes. Hopefully it will be in My Journal soon. He is trying to have the drawings and pics inserted in the text as I originally wrote it. If it can't be done that way, I'll just have to split up the text and pics and you'll have to go back and forth between My Journal and My photos. A PIA, but it's better than not having anything to go by on this mod like Mike Pilkenton did originally. I just embellished and made a few changes to what he did, I think to simplify the installation. But Nathan Acree has a really good looking tranny subrame. So what I did may not be for everyone, it's just a reference.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Phase II of the V-6/T-5 transplant shows and explains how I made up the engine/tranny subframes and engine mounts. Also how I screwed up and had pit falls along the way and had to redo a lot of what I had done initially. Enjoy.

Ron
 

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Thanks, Ron. This makes for good reading and a perfect reference for those of us in the planing stage.:) Wish I had something like this in the late 60's when I put a 289 in a 60 Falcon.
Barry
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Actually, the hardest part of the whole mess was cutting the square tubing and steel plate with a hacksaw. I had enough (sawdust) left over to melt down and have a 3" steel ball. I planned to do this tutorial from the start. Mike Pilkenton's conversion tutorial was good and I didn't have any problem deciding to do this project after I read his documents. I went with a different approach on the subframes because I'm not too wild about drilling holes in structual members. His worked and worked well. I just decided to minimize the hole drilling thing and use what was already there, along with having a little more step by step, and when I had problems, talk about them. Phase III is in the works right now, cutting the footwell and wiper well to make room for the engine and exhaust. It looks like I may have to go with the Fiero type exhaust going to the front of the engine, then down and back. Similar to the flathead Fords of the 30s, 40s, and 50s. Yes, I remember them well, used to work on them in my uncle's gas station as a teen. I digress, again, Glad to be able to help any one with this mod. It's been a long time in getting this far but it's been a blast too.

Ron
 
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