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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone found the Fel Pro No Re-Torque head gasket to be needed retorqued? If so, at how many miles should this be done?

And does anyone have any tips on using the Fel Pro rubber valve cover gasket? I went threw two last year before just glueing the cover to the head. The gaskets when compressed would always like start breaking and falling apart, maybe was just tightened down to hard??
 

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SeventyThreeGt, Check out this thread, http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5824
I am not impressed with the Fel Pro rubber valve cover gasket. In fact that is my current hold up on driving the car. I adjusted the valves and it leaked like a seive afterwords. I'm waiting on 2 valve cover gaskets from OGTS now to fix the problem. 1 to run, 1 to put on the shelf. Won't get caught like that again. Jarrell
 

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The only way I could get the Fel Pro gasket to seal was to use sealer, nasty looking job. When I first installed the gasket I kept noticing I had a leak especially after driving. My wife examined the engine while I revved it up and wiped the oil with a rag until she could find the source. It was coming out of the bolt holes!

I've had excellent luck with Victor/Reinz gaskets. If you wind up with old stock cork gaskets that have shrunk just soak them in water before installing. A tip that the Opel racers around here did was to use gorilla snot (weather stripping adhesive) to stick the gasket to the valve cover so that when they went adjust the valves the gasket stayed with the cover.

Don't overtighten the valve cover as it will cut the gasket. :eek:

HTH,
Harold
 

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hrcollinsjr said:
.... When I first installed the gasket I kept noticing I had a leak especially after driving. .... It was coming out of the bolt holes! HTH,
Harold
That is exactly what mine did esp the ones on the intake/exhaust side. Cheap gasket!!! :mad: Smoked like a freight train. Jarrell
 

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huh?

I guess my experiences are atypical, because I won't use anything other than Fel-Pro valve cover gaskets. As a matter of principal, I don't generally re-use gaskets, but after my maiden voyage with my current Kadett wagon I'm a believer in whatever Fel-Pro does to make their valve cover gaskets.

In the return trip from SD to NY it turns out the rocker arm studs on my 1.5 were worn out. This was evidenced by me having to readjust valve lash at roughly 80 mile intervals for the entire 1300 mile trip. With no "extra" gaskets in the car, and no real hope of finding a vavle cover gasket on hand at any parts stores along the way, I had no choice but to re-use the valve cover gasket. By the time I finally had had enough and bought a bought an extra set of nuts to double-nut them and a tube of red loc-Tite for good measure, I had reused the gasket a total of 14 times. No leakage at all from the valve cover gasket the entire trip.

On the other hand, and the origional reason why I dont use cork gaskets, I've got at least a dozen valve covers kicking around here that someone glued a cork gasket to and I just tossed them instead of trying to clean the [email protected] off. What a royal pain, trying to get old, oil soaked, heat cycled, glued-on cork off. Easier to find another vavle cover.

My best advice for valve cover gaskets is to toss the 6 bolts you currently have on the cover and replace them with studs and nuts. I know you GT guys think you won't have the room for studs, but if you can get the valve cover over the rocker arms you can get it over 5/8" long studs too, and it's easier with no gasket on the valve cover anyway. Then, with the studs installed, you can set the gasket in place over them on the head, making sure it is straight and aligned right, and install the valve cover. In my experience, over 90% of the oil leaks from new gaskets are from the back edge of the gasket becoming misaligned during install, so check that before anything gets tigtened down. If you absolutely have to use a cork gasket, the red Permatex gasket adhesive works great, as long as you do a couple of coats to both sides and let it get good and tacky before you try and use it. They don't need a lot of torque either, if you need 2 hands on the ratchet you're over-tightening.

I'm so sold on Fel-Pro valve cover gaskets, by the way, that in '94, when I couldn't afford OGTS (who was selling cork ones anyway) and there was effectivly no internet support, I actually had to order a set of valve cover gaskets directly from Fel-Pro to get them, minimum order 50 units. The manager at the local Hi/Lo I bought them through only charged me retail for the first one, and let me have the rest at his cost, but it was still almost $300 back then. At the time I never though I'd need to buy another valve cover gasket, but I've since used or sold the entire lot, the one on the Wagon was the last one. Wonder what 50 units would cost today?
 

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Alignment of the gasket is important regardless of the material. The Fel Pro will easily outlast the cork but the cork holds up fairly well if not over-torqued. The glued on gaskets I mentioned were used on Manta's so there was no problem installing them, with the GT it is a little tighter. :rolleyes: We all have our preferences on some things because of past experiences. Someone on this list told me that I must have gotten a Manta gasket because the valve cover holes were too big. It was the only valve cover gasket that I've used that leaked except for the cork one that I overtightened. ;)

50 Valve cover gaskets? :eek:

Harold
 

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I've only had a few gaskets leak and I might have gotten a Manta gasket, and it could be the valve cover holes were too big.
Oldopelguy,that is a heck of a good idea with the studs. I'll try to round up some studs and give it a try. The only problem I can think of at this moment would be the fact that they (holes in cyl head) are metric. That could be solved by getting longer bolts, cutting them off, running them through a die, double nutting them to mount them and you'd be in business. Not a bad idea at all. Thanks, Jarrell
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Has anybody used those gasket "washers" that come with the valve cover gaskets? Looks like they should go under the bolt heads, but they won't fit without cutting them.

And anyone have problems with their valve cover bolts bottoming out in the head? I snaped one off a while ago and a couple other bolts where stretched out. I since got some shorter bolts, allen head cap screws, they look cool :cool: .
 

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How many "washers" were there? I don't remember them in the gasket set. The only thing I didn't use was the valve stem seals and one of the thermostat housing gaskets and stove sheild.There was a rubber O ring that went in the upper right for water. Got a picture of them by chance?
Did you clean out the holes that the head bolts went in? If there was oil in them, as they were tightened up the oil would compress, it can't go anywhere. I've never broken a head bolt, knock wood. Where did you get the allen head cap screws?
Jarrell
 

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Grub Screws!

Learnt this one from Samdog's Roller Rocker Kit: Use 6mm allen hex grubscrews for studs - that way they can be removed with an allen key to get the rocker cover off a GT without having to lift it over the studs.
A nice set of acorn nuts on top look good too but the "studs" do need to be the exact correct length so they do not bottom out. Also a 6mm red firbre washer under the nut will seal any oil leak up through the bolt hole in the rocker cover.
 

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Moderators Note: Thread split (was Hydraulic vs Sold Lifters)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Yeah I cleaned out the oil in the head bolt holes, but it was the valve cover bolts that were breaking.. I dint clean those holes out :eek: . The allen head cap screws were just something I found here in my Dad's metric bolt bin.
And there are six of those gasket washers. The head set box calls them "back up washers." They also came when I got the valve cover gasket sepperatly, I now have 3 sets of those things. They are 4cm long and 1mm thick and made from similar rubber as the cover gasket, pic below.
 

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The only thing I can think of, since they are made of rubber, is they might fit under the valve cover bolts, sandwiched between the metal ones that appear to be the same shape, and the valve cover. I believe, I may be wrong, but the metal ones of the same shape were on the steel valve covers. Just a guess, as I've never gotten them in any gasket kit I've bought.
Jarrell
 

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Silly question!

I replaced my valve-cover gasket today (1.6S CIH, car Ascona B), as it was a little leaking, and I am having a M.O.T. inspection next month. The water hoses that get to the heater core are routed along each side of the cover, and are held by three metal brackets that are secured in place by the valve-cover's bolts.

I noticed that two the brackets were previously bolted between those "butterfly" like washers that the cover's bolts have, and the cover itself, and one of them between the bolt and the washer. I believe that they were disturbed at some previous valve-cover removal.

The hose holders' hole is much larger than that of the washers, in fact it is just smaller that the bolt's heads, and all the "tightening" force is applied by the bolts' corner ends. I thought about putting them all below the washers, but that I didn't like because the washers are much wider because of their shape and apply the force to a much larger area. So I left them temporarily as they were.

Do your GT's have such hose holders? If yes, how are they put in relation to the washers?

Thank you in advance!
 

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SeventythreeGT, those are for a steel valve cover. They use a washer of the same shape but are often discarded.
 

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Those odd shaped steel washers are to spread out the clamping force of the bolts that hold the valve cover down. These were mostly found on the Manta/Asconas as they had the steel valve covers and the holes that the bolts went through usually "cupped" from overtightening and would never seal. These washers prevented the cupping. I have often had to turn the steel covers over and either with a punch and hammer or a body hammer, hammer the cupped holes out flat again, but, doing this too many times and streches the metal.
 

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2.0 Head Gasket

Does anyone have an extra 2.0L Head Gasket they could part with? I just got my engine back from the machine shop and need to start assembling but OGTS sold out of 2.0 Head gaskets last week and it will be at least a month before they get more.

I'm trying to get back on the road before May and this is going to set me back a month or so. Let me know if you know of another way to get one or if you have a part number. Any info will help.

Thanks
 

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Update

soybean said:
Oldopelguy,that is a heck of a good idea with the studs. Not a bad idea at all. Thanks, Jarrell
Tried it and it worked well. The gasket was a little wobbly, but with a dab of K&W copper coat and some pressure it stuck well. I took some pictures, but left the camera in the shop. I'll add them later. The only problem I ran into was the studs I made were too short when I put the valve cover on. I couldn't get the washers and nuts on. So I reverted back to the old valve cover bolts. The idea is sound and will work well, I failed to read the whole post that was written and get the longer studs. :eek: The next time I change valve cover gaskets I will be ready to do the change-over. GREAT TIP!! Thanks oldopelguy. Jarrell
 

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