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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
IVE GOT A COUPLE QUESTIONS. i HAVE A 1.9L THAT I HAVE BORED.100". IM ALSO GETTING CUSTOM PISTONS MADE.

THE FIRST QUESTION IS WHERE CAN I FIND SOME PERFORMANCE CONNECTING ROD BOLTS? AND CAN THE ENGINE HANDLE A 50 SHOT OF NITROUS IF I GOT THOSE BOLTS?

SECOND.....iVE BEEN TRYING TO DECIDE ON WHAT CAMSHAFT TO GO WITH. i HAVE BEEN LOOKING AT THE TGSI "WEEKEND WARRIOR" CAM AND VALVE KIT. BUT THE .488" LIFT IS A LITTLE RADICAL FOR ME. ID LIKE SOMETHING AROUND LIKE .460" WHATS SOME GOOD SUGGESTINS?

THIRD.... HOW MUCH RPM'S CAN THE VALVETRAIN HANDLE BEFORE IT FALLS APART.
 

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Well to start what compression are you going to run? And for the cam what you need to consider is spring compression. Above .440 I believe is where you start putting them into a bind. C&R used to sell a double spring set that let you get past this, but I haven't seen a set of those in years. Go for a longer duration in the 290 range and a new set of springs. I have ran both 11.5 to 1's and 8.5 turbo boost using new stock bolts.

Unless you go to roller rockers, which I have never tried but would like to, the best I ever got was 7500 rpm before the valve train couldn't keep up. That motor had the double springs, titanium keepers with a 295 445 solid lifter cam. It was the 11.5 to 1 60 over variety and twin dcoe's. But I set the valves every 500 miles or so.

Just my 2 cents
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well im trying to keep the compression ratio under 11 to 1. i want it to be like 10 to 1. And as far as the valve train goes... are there any other kits other than tgsi? if not where can i find springs and stuff like that.
 

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Springs and Things

The TSGI cam kits are put together by someone who knows his Opels. One could try and put together bits and pieces from here and there ending up with a mismatched mess that cost twice as much and worked half as well! It's no wonder those intrepid souls who put together quality, tested kits for us Opelers eventually just give up and leave us to fend for ourselves!

I only know of Bob at TSGI due to this site and a look at his website - bite the bullet and pay the price as it will be less expensive in the long run. One of his electric cooling set-ups is on my must have list ..... I'm saving the money as hard as I can.
 

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I'm spinning 8000 rpm with ARP rod bolts, 11:1 forged pistons, dual valve springs w/titanium retainers and 10 degree locks, a .480 lift cam and stock lifters and rockers. I think it is a matter of time before I bend a rocker, but the car is only used for auto-x and I've started practicing the road coarse, so it isn't a big deal if I'm down for a little while replacing a rocker. If it was a serious race or daily driven car I'd upgrade them.
 

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I had to call ARP and they were the last set in the bin. They said if there was interest they could run another batch but it wouldn't be cheap.
I've never used N2O and probably never will, but as long as the motor was strong and you had some timing control I don't think a 50 shot would be too much. The 68-70 1.9 has forged rods and crank and 5 mains so it is fairly stout.
 

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has anyone gotten their rocker arms treated
ie crorogenically , magnafluxed, or hydrogen nitrided
to make them last a bit longer i was curious because thats stuff makes cranks and rods stronger y not the rockers
 

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The various hardening processes have already been discussed in another thread, run a search on cyro treating for some good discussion.

I think that the Nitride treatment failed immediatly for one user when applied to non-roller rockers.
 
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