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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Not sure,,, this is a long shot,,, but maybe someone else can chime in...If the wiring is correct. The Alt. Meter in our cars is wired in Series, Not Parallel, Have you noticed anything Going wrong with the meter inside the Car? did that smoke too... Over amps can short that meter out. Just saying...
The ammeter is fine, as far as I know. The warning light glows when appropriate. With previous regulators (before the last one) the meter fluctuated back and forth wildly just before the regulator died, then settled comfortably in the negative zone.
 

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Look under the dash at the fuse box, Make sure the four red wires with nuts are good and tight, and the wires show no signs of overheating,, Am using a single wire Alternator . 100 amp, no regulator, if I don't have a bypass wire on my car, ( Bypass to battery) I'll fry the Amp meter and all the wires too... FWIW
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thanks. None of the suggestions on that page really apply to me, though I wish they did. I don’t have anything that draws a lot of current, with the possible exception of a dash cam, but it’s been unplugged through the last two regulators. I have unplugged one or two of the regulators while the car is running, but only to test them because they stopped working. I’ve done continuity checks on all of the wires involved, firmly pulled on the ones that are screwed down, e.g. the ground wire, triple-checked the wire terminations, etc. I’ve ruled out the alternator by unnecessarily having it rewound after it tested good, and the battery by replacing it.

I didn’t realize until a few days ago that there’s supposed to be a fusible link between the regulator and the gauge, and on the B+ connection of the alternator, neither of which were there for some reason. I’m expecting some link wire today or tomorrow (hopefully I ordered the right size), so I’ll install that and hopefully fry $5 links instead of $35 regulators. It won’t solve the problem but hopefully it will narrow it down a little. Standard Motor Products should offer me stock with all of the regulators I’m buying from them. 😂 I’d buy a higher capacity one if I knew what to look for! 🤦‍♂️
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Look under the dash at the fuse box, Make sure the four red wires with nuts are good and tight, and the wires show no signs of overheating,, Am using a single wire Alternator . 100 amp, no regulator, if I don't have a bypass wire on my car, ( Bypass to battery) I'll fry the Amp meter and all the wires too... FWIW
Okay, I’ll check it out. Ironically, the second alternator shop had me try two new, modern alternators with internal regulators. The first one was 3/4” too long between the mounting hole. The second one required it to be mounted in such a way that I had to calculate a longer fan belt, but after I removed the radiator and fan and got it installed, the belt was rubbing on the lower mounting bracket with almost an inch of deflection, so they just ended up having my original alt rewound. ☹
 

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Yeah, If you follow the GM Upgraded Alternator Mod.. LINKS..
You'd use a Mr. Gasket Lower Alternator F-Bracket, and spacers and keep the stock upper bracket

.The Link is somewhere here if the Admin, didn't break the links ,,like all the other important info.is .gone, gone,, gone Here,, 20 years of knowledge gone because the site been SOLD a few times bounced around few times since Gary owned it.. I hope you find your answers ..cure soon... keep us posted
 
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Yeah, If you follow the GM Upgraded Alternator Mod.. LINKS..
You'd use a Mr. Gasket Lower Alternator F-Bracket, and spacers and keep the stock upper bracket

.The Link is somewhere here if the Admin, didn't break the links ,,like all the other important info.is .gone, gone,, gone Here,, 20 years of knowledge gone because the site been SOLD a few times bounced around few times since Gary owned it.. I hope you find your answers ..cure soon... keep us posted
That’s a shame. Thanks for your time and expertise. If worse comes to worst, I’ll just keep charging my battery periodically with the wall charger and keep my booster charged and in the car, and drive around like that! 😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Yeah, If you follow the GM Upgraded Alternator Mod.. LINKS..
You'd use a Mr. Gasket Lower Alternator F-Bracket, and spacers and keep the stock upper bracket

.The Link is somewhere here if the Admin, didn't break the links ,,like all the other important info.is .gone, gone,, gone Here,, 20 years of knowledge gone because the site been SOLD a few times bounced around few times since Gary owned it.. I hope you find your answers ..cure soon... keep us posted
FYI: I found a post here from 2007 that agrees with a Web page that I printed a couple of years ago from a Pontiac or Plymouth site regarding fusible link size determination:

From all indications, I ordered the right sizes. Yay me, until I find out otherwise! 😎
 

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Yeah, If you follow the GM Upgraded Alternator Mod.. LINKS..
You'd use a Mr. Gasket Lower Alternator F-Bracket, and spacers and keep the stock upper bracket

.The Link is somewhere here if the Admin, didn't break the links ,,like all the other important info.is .gone, gone,, gone Here,, 20 years of knowledge gone because the site been SOLD a few times bounced around few times since Gary owned it.. I hope you find your answers ..cure soon... keep us posted
Yea, I think that most of the broken links were caused by Photo-Hosting services that changed the way the links were used. The Admin folks and the New Owners (VerticalScope) get blamed, but it typically isn't their fault.

Honestly, the charging system in these old Opels is extremely simple. One connection to the battery via the B+ terminal on the alternator, and three identical parallel wire connections from the alternator to the regulator, PLUS a "field current" connection (the blue wire with the white stripe) to the charging bulb on the ammeter. There may be some other complications created by a faulty ammeter, or bad connections, or wires going to places they shouldn't, but those are OUTSIDE the charging system. Seems to me that there is at least one wire connected to something it shouldn't be. Quite impossible to diagnose over the Internet. Takes a methodical procedure of tracking and matching wires according to the Factory schematic.

But in any event, using EXACTLY the key words: "GM Upgraded Alternator Mod" in the "Search Community" box, here is a whole bunch of reading suggestions for upgraded alternators:


HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited by Moderator)
Yea, I think that most of the broken links were caused by Photo-Hosting services that changed the way the links were used. The Admin folks and the New Owners (VerticalScope) get blamed, but it typically isn't their fault.

Honestly, the charging system in these old Opels is extremely simple. One connection to the battery via the B+ terminal on the alternator, and three identical parallel wire connections from the alternator to the regulator, PLUS a "field current" connection (the blue wire with the white stripe) to the charging bulb on the ammeter. There may be some other complications created by a faulty ammeter, or bad connections, or wires going to places they shouldn't, but those are OUTSIDE the charging system. Seems to me that there is at least one wire connected to something it shouldn't be. Quite impossible to diagnose over the Internet. Takes a methodical procedure of tracking and matching wires according to the Factory schematic.

But in any event, using EXACTLY the key words: "GM Upgraded Alternator Mod" in the "Search Community" box, here is a whole bunch of reading suggestions for upgraded alternators:


HTH
I’m completely willing to accept that something is connected incorrectly, but how could that have happened overnight in my garage? I don’t know nearly enough about automotive electrical to try to change any wiring. I cleaned off the contacts in my interior dome light a couple of years ago to try to get that to work, but that’s about it. Oh, and I replaced the stereo four years ago, right after I got the car, but it hasn’t even been on when the last couple of regulators went out.
 

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Hey Vegas,
Yeah, I gotcha. I’m very meticulous about diagraming and/or photographing wiring before I start disconnecting anything because I don’t know enough about it to know what connects to what.

One thing I realized last night though, my wiring is different from the schematic. I don’t have a wire from the ignition coil to the starter, and I have two wires going from the ignition coil to the distributor. I wonder if that’s significant.
He Vegas, Do you have electronic ignition. that make a difference but I am not an expert, far from it. Michael Smith I believe have a degree in electrical engeneering and Manta Rallier is a an expert on electronics - - so if you have not found the solution you may want to ask these two guys - and of course Gil may have the answer. My only advice that I received on this forum and will pass it along is start at the battery and work your way from there. Oh, and there are gremlins in Opel's, proven fact. Good luck, Carl
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Hey Vegas,

He Vegas, Do you have electronic ignition. that make a difference but I am not an expert, far from it. Michael Smith I believe have a degree in electrical engeneering and Manta Rallier is a an expert on electronics - - so if you have not found the solution you may want to ask these two guys - and of course Gil may have the answer. My only advice that I received on this forum and will pass it along is start at the battery and work your way from there. Oh, and there are gremlins in Opel's, proven fact. Good luck, Carl
Yes, Pertronix electronic ignition.

Gil can’t figure it out. He initially asked if the alternator was grounded, but that was the extent of his suggestions. I’ll try to contact the other two guys after I see what happens when I install the fusible links and the next regulator.

Aside from battery voltage and alternator voltage, I have no idea what else to test or where.

Yeah, the gremlins and I have been getting to know each other for years. The reason I have one windshield wiper is gremlins. My Blaupunkt stereo powers off at random... gremlins. Etc., etc...
🤓
 

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I did not know that the left terminal is marked B+. I cannot see on my car what the designation is. But I do see clearly that the right side terminal is marked B+ and that is where my red wire is connected. I'll keep looking.

I want to correct the statement that I have a degree in electrical engineering. That was my Old Man's profession. While some of his interest did rub off, my degree was in animal science as a pre-veterinary medicine major. I ended up on Wall Street, but that is another story.

So I just checked and indeed the left terminal on my alternator appears to have the B+ label, so my suggestion would seem to be off. But then again, since I am not burning out regulators and I'm connected on the right-hand terminal, perhaps...
 

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That's It, I bet
I new that if he posted a few photo's someone would chime in,,,, Move the wire over dude
I Bet -tcha that's the difference, isn't one B+ and the Other B - ??? If it was working before the only thing changed is you missed placed a wire,,, Right? give that a try... Keep us posted
 

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Yep, I’ve checked them multiple times.

I’m not jump starting it. I can start it 8-10 times before the battery dies. I hook up the wall charger once in a while to fully charge it.
In earlier times, I burned out a number of regulators. That stopped happening when I stopped charging the battery from a wall charger. I thought that the charger I had would go into a de-sulfonation mode, or something like that, where it was putting out high frequency pulses, and I had the suspicion that might be killing the regulator. I believe I also prevented the problem by charging the battery with the regulator unplugged; although it wound up being easier to just disconnect the battery entirely when I wanted to charge it.
 

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Note: Fusible Link Wire is 4 GA sizes smaller than wire used.
Diagram show location of three fusible link wires on Opel GT:
1. Starter - 14 GA fusible link
2. Alternator - 14 GA fusible link
3. Stock voltage regulator - 16 GA fusible link to D+ current sense wire.

Resistor ??? or fusible link??
 

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Yeah, I gotcha. I’m very meticulous about diagraming and/or photographing wiring before I start disconnecting anything because I don’t know enough about it to know what connects to what.

One thing I realized last night though, my wiring is different from the schematic. I don’t have a wire from the ignition coil to the starter, and I have two wires going from the ignition coil to the distributor. I wonder if that’s significant.
For some reason I keep thinking that wire from the ignition coil to the starter had to do with getting 12v to the coil while cranking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
For some reason I keep thinking that wire from the ignition coil to the starter had to do with getting 12v to the coil while cranking.
My car doesn’t even have the wire that goes from the coil to the starter as indicated on the schematic. I’m trying to figure that one out too. 🤔
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Note: Fusible Link Wire is 4 GA sizes smaller than wire used.
Diagram show location of three fusible link wires on Opel GT:
1. Starter - 14 GA fusible link
2. Alternator - 14 GA fusible link
3. Stock voltage regulator - 16 GA fusible link to D+ current sense wire.

Resistor ??? or fusible link??
I’m going to avoid cutting the wire loom between the alt and reg for now, but I might put a fusible link in the D+ line after I’ve tried everything else. For now I want to keep everything consistent with the factory schematic to the extent possible.
 
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