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Okay, it’s official: you have now properly terrified me! In 1989 and 90 I had a ‘74 Manta with over 200k miles that I thought was waaaaay overdue for the wrecking yard. That was before I had any interest in Opels and I didn’t have the resources to restore a car, even if I’d wanted to. It just got me from point A to point B (usually). It had a lot of electrical issues, e.g. the fuel gauge, turn signals, and many other functions didn’t work, nor did the speedo and some other mechanical functions. I decided to buy a complete harness from Opels Unlimited (so it may not have even been completely good) and change mine out. A buddy and I took 6 to 8 hours to do it, but once it was done, it had the exact same problems still! I was working as an electronics technician at the time, but I knew even less about automotive electrical than I know now, if you can believe that’s possible, and thinking about it now, I didn’t think to replace, or even check, any of the ground connections. 🤦‍♂️

I have the time and ability to replace brown wires, if I know where to find them all, and I even have a couple of new spools of brown wire. I even have a crimper, and I’m not afraid to use it! It’s just going to be uncomfortable as the weather warms and it gets to be 250° in my garage at night. 🥵 I replaced the ground wire on my left headlight because the light was dimmer than the other. It fixed the problem for a few weeks, but it’s dim again.

As far as the interior gauges and functions go, if one or more of them are shorted, shouldn’t fuses be blowing, now that I’ve replaced all of the 25A fuses with ones that are correct? The only “gauge” that’s not functioning properly is the clock, and I think all of us are familiar with that particular nuisance.

I have at least one wire (the red alt B+ wire, in fact) that has some cracks on a section of insulation, but the wire is good. Nevertheless, I don’t have a problem with running a new wire or twenty.

By the way, my wiper issue is entirely mechanical, and I’ve had it from the beginning. I changed out the motor and resolved it, except I can’t find a passenger side wiper arm with a mounting hole that’s not warbled out with the fluting worn away. It’s okay, though. It doesn’t rain much in the desert for some reason (we had 260 days last year with no precipitation), and my occasional passengers don’t need to see when it does. 😎
Hi Terry:
Have you check voltage drop on your ground locations? Have you used "star washers" on you ground posts/bolts? Good luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Hi Terry:
Have you check voltage drop on your ground locations? Have you used "star washers" on you ground posts/bolts? Good luck!!
I have not. Please remind me how to check for a voltage drop. I know that I knew how to do that 30 years ago, but I can’t think of how to do it now. I also don’t know from star washers. They would gave whatever Gil put on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 · (Edited)
Okay, so I’ve never used my current multimeter to measure current in anything before a week or two ago, so I totally forgot that I needed to plug the red lead into the jack on the other side of where the black lead is plugged into. That why I wasn’t getting a current measurement between D+ and DF, believe it or not. I corrected my stupidity and measured the current tonight. When the car fires up, it gives me a brief .3/.4 amps, then drops to zero. HOWEVER, when I gently revved the engine (2000-2500 RPM) for a second or two, it shot up to 13 amps and held steady as I let it idle for several more seconds. I don’t know how the 6A fast-blow fuse that I put in the jumper didn’t blow, and I’m not sure how my “10A max” meter didn’t blow its fuse, but I’m guessing, based on what you folks have been telling me, that the alt is NOT supposed to deliver that much current to the regulator.

To reiterate, I have the OGTS loom that has been in the car from the get-go plugged into the alt. I placed my digital ammeter leads on the D+ and DF terminals of the loom. The B+ wire is connected to the alt also (I didn’t think to measure the current with that wire disconnected, but I will mañana). The resulting current is 13A.

Does that tell anyone anything definite?
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
After disconnecting the B+ wire and measuring current from D+ to DF, I didn’t get even a single ampere.
 

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I have not. Please remind me how to check for a voltage drop. I know that I knew how to do that 30 years ago, but I can’t think of how to do it now. I also don’t know from star washers. They would gave whatever Gil put on them.
Hi Terry:

There are several excellent videos on "voltage drop" on Youtube. My "star washer " assortment came from Harbor Freight, but I did not see it on their website. Amazon has them. You want the internal and external assortment. I had a similar problem on a boat several years ago due to poor grounding.

Regards: Dave Austin
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Hi Terry:

There are several excellent videos on "voltage drop" on Youtube. My "star washer " assortment came from Harbor Freight, but I did not see it on their website. Amazon has them. You want the internal and external assortment. I had a similar problem on a boat several years ago due to poor grounding.

Regards: Dave Austin
Okay, thanks. I’ll look for the vids and washers. Can poor grounding cause the alternator to put out a constant 13 amps of current?
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
So... I don’t have any voltage drops. I’m also no longer getting any current between D+ and DF, and when I do a voltage output test on the alternator, the voltage doesn’t go way up to 17+ VDC when I rev the engine like it used to. ☹
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Good news and bad news...

The good news is, I bought a rebuilt 55A alternator from Gil, put it in on Saturday, and problem solved!

The bad news is, I bought a rebuilt 55A alternator from Gil, put it in on Saturday, and problem solved!

That means I was taken for a $130 ride by Nellis Auto Starter and Alternator. Now that I’ve cooled off for a couple of days, I’m going to talk to them tomorrow. I don’t expect a refund, but I’m definitely going to tell them that I know I was cheated.

Thank you to all of you for your suggestions.

Now I can work on trying to fix my horn and finding out why my clutch pedal fell off.
 

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Good news and bad news...

The good news is, I bought a rebuilt 55A alternator from Gil, put it in on Saturday, and problem solved!

The bad news is, I bought a rebuilt 55A alternator from Gil, put it in on Saturday, and problem solved!

That means I was taken for a $130 ride by Nellis Auto Starter and Alternator. Now that I’ve cooled off for a couple of days, I’m going to talk to them tomorrow. I don’t expect a refund, but I’m definitely going to tell them that I know I was cheated.

Thank you to all of you for your suggestions.

Now I can work on trying to fix my horn and finding out why my clutch pedal fell off.
Good luck, they ought to pay for the regulators you burned up in the process while they’re at it. Glad you got things solved, in the end the good news far outweighs the bad! Glad to hear it, now you have a great alternator.
 
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