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· www.opelgtworld.de
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A conventional water pump needs an engine performance up to 2 PS.
The water pump works optimal up to an engine speed of about to 6200 RPM.

The mechanical handling capacity of the pump does not considerably continue to rise over 6200 RPM. For this reason in racing they use other ratios for the water pump. Sounds crazy, but look at the ratios of that Risse Kit:



Norbert
 

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Nice looking kit Norbert. I've checked out their website, but the translation pages I've used leave a lot to be desired, and you can't understand correctly what is offered. Hate to spend big bucks, and order the wrong thing. Jarrell
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, that's nice. I was working on different pulleys once and considered going to serpentine, gilmer belt looks even better as I run just a water pump, no alternator, no adjustment method. Then, as the subject strayed wildly in Bob's thermostat thread, I'd rather go to electric pump, which I'm afraid would just freak out the competition and tech man...
So with Norbert's engine rpm numbers I gather I should run my stock pump shaft at just slightly less than crankshaft speed. Slightly larger pulley on top than bottom.
Now, I wonder where to see a nice assortment of gilmer toothed pulleys and belts?
The machine shop may need to step in here, huh?

Oh, Jarrell, I discovered in my rear gear search that if you e-mail to Risse they communicate quite well in English and can answer questions clearly.
 

· Old Opeler
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Electric Advantages

With an electric water pump drive and electric cooling fan they can be left running after the motor is shut down to prevent "heat soak" in the pits and keep contol of engine cool down ...... just need the switches and batteries to do it!
 

· boomerang opeler
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GTJIM said:
With an electric water pump drive and electric cooling fan they can be left running after the motor is shut down to prevent "heat soak" in the pits and keep contol of engine cool down ...... just need the switches and batteries to do it!
to much weight in a race car jim
better as an add on pack with a timmer
when the race finnishes just "plug and play" :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
We had the electric pump pretty well figured out in the "modified thermostat housing" thread. It's really the way to go, it's been in drag racing a long time and is in some new cars now.
I was working on a school bus recently that had the perfect pump in its heating system.
I'd best not do that quite yet, like I say my fellow racers will cry foul. I just need to be sure I'm turning the stock pump at the right RPM for best flow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Bump

Back to pumping water. We've discussed alternate ways of doing this, today I see in the Jeg's catalog a really simple way to do it to an LT1.
This might be adaptable to the Opel. Wouldn't that be something if it just happened to bolt up? Worst case scenario would be a thin adaptor plate or some machining of the front cover.
OOPS somehow this went on as an attachment, not a thumbnail. I don't know how to fix that.
(edit) Thanks, Ron. I'll remove my attachment and I think I know what I did wrong.
Okay, see Ron's post for the picture of the water pump!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So then I explored the Meziere Enterprises website and found some really neat stuff. They even show how to mount their pumps to the bottom tank of the radiator. Up to 55 gpm flow rates were offered.
Wow. This is it, guys. Here is a couple of easy horsepower and consistent cooling throughout the RPM range, and would prevent heat soak after shutting off a hot engine.
Oh, yeah, I know, I hear the screaming already, it's a couple hundred dollars, sorry about that. Old worn out ones will be on E-bay in a few years for half that.
 

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I have used these pumps before with good results on big blocks or remote radiator applications like the Fiero or mid/rear engine kits.

A less expensive way is to use a marine 30gpm pump which are in the $60-80 range. Just get a dual relay adjustable temp controller to handle fan and pump and you are done. But make sure the water pump plate is thick enough to drill and tap for the inlet/outlet fittings. Also, with this type of system which cooling and flow are controlled independently, the thermostat should be replaced with a restrictor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The pump research which began several years ago kept coming up just a tad bit short on GPM and temp capability. This is warned of in the Meziere website I studied today.
I was only kidding about the reaction to the cost. Surely most of you realize I would NEVER skimp quality for cost. Not on a racing engine that already has a thousand dollars just in machine work. That would be like spending twenty thou to have a pacemaker installed with a Radio Shack battery:haha: .
Some sensors and relays could make it all work automatically, perfect for the professional truck driver, but I prefer it to be all manual in my car, so far I need only switch the fans on when we sit idling (red flag) or move slowly (yellow flag).
The Mezieres tout their products to be properly tested and engineered for utmost reliability in their racing/ high performance automotive environment and intended usage, that means something to me.
Naturally this is all silly junk to most readers, but those needing that extra horsepower or two and realize the benefits possible are paying close attention and are heading right over to that Meziere website, aren't you?:)
 

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To us is not silly junk since most of our customers spend anywhere from $15-30K on their engine alone. On a 78HP Opel engine, I can see why it would be a waste of time since the expenditure is not warranted and you would be right saying it would be a silly scenario.

The advantages of a self driven type cooling system are not limited to racing applications only, there are a vast number of applications which help your high horsepower engine under limited conditions. It is very hard to cool 6-800HP at low Rpm when you are within a traffic jam or entering a crowded parking lot at a show and so on. So we sometimes add a secondary cooling system with a mechanical pump or a filtered multi radiator system that employs electrical pumps to keep things cool per say.

We do have an extensive library which gets updated every 3 months by the resident geek and we also get samples of certain products every month. These are the perks of purchasing large qty of parts every month.
 

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The pump research which began several years ago kept coming up just a tad bit short on GPM and temp capability. This is warned of in the Meziere website I studied today.
Jeff, I purchased a remote electric water pump (# 026-AC-R1) from Aerospace Components a few months ago. The intent was to use it with my turbo road racing engine in a year or two, but I figured I'd engineer the system now with the lesser naturally aspirated engine that's going in the car in the meantime.

The pumps are not exactly lightweight at 5.5 lbs, but the flow is decent at 37 GPM and the reliability should be good (rated for 3000 hours of continuous use which is roughly 180,000 miles at 60 mph). I like the fact that it only draws 4 amps, and can be left on after the engine is shut off to reduce localized overheating within the head.

I didn't go with the Meziere because their remote inline pump only flows 20 GPH, and the few people I know who've run them have had some failures early on. This was on dual-purpose street/road race cars primarily. The Meziere's also draw closer to 10 amps IIRC.

Bob
 

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electric

There are a lot of old dragsters running around with the litle electric motors bolted on to drive the water pump, that's been around for a long time. One of those motors could probably be strapped onto an Opel.

For the 4.3 in the Sportwagon I'm using a Jaguar water pump, like the one pictured below, so I can drive it off a short belt and shorten the motor by about 6". It's off an early '90's XJ6, and they are pretty easy to find. If I wanted a low-buck remote electric I'd probably strap a motor to one, myself, becuase I would know it could handle the pressure, flow, and chemicals associated with an auto cooling system, and I could get parts anywhere.
 

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