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Hello all.
I have plans to change the Solex carb for the Weber 32/36.
But when I look around here and there I see there are different types of Webers.
For example, Weber 32/36 DGEV, Weber 32/36 DFAV, Weber 32/36 DFEV.
So now I'm a bit confused.
Is there any difference between those Weber carbs, and what kind of type I need for my GT?
Thanks in advance.
Rini.
 

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ZmokE said:
Hello all.
I have plans to change the Solex carb for the Weber 32/36.
But when I look around here and there I see there are different types of Webers.
For example, Weber 32/36 DGEV, Weber 32/36 DFAV, Weber 32/36 DFEV.
So now I'm a bit confused.
Is there any difference between those Weber carbs, and what kind of type I need for my GT?
Thanks in advance.
Rini.
You should try to use a DG-series carburetor. The DGV has a manual choke (cable), the DGAV has a water choke, and the DGEV has an electric choke. Other than jetting, that is the only real difference between those models.

Bob

PS, this question should be posted in the downdraft carburetor forums!

Hell hath no fury like a moderator scorned....
 

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Weber 32/36 DGxV vs. DFxV Types

ZmokE said:
Hello all.
I have plans to change the Solex carb for the Weber 32/36.
But when I look around here and there I see there are different types of Webers.
For example, Weber 32/36 DGEV, Weber 32/36 DFAV, Weber 32/36 DFEV.
So now I'm a bit confused.
Is there any difference between those Weber carbs, and what kind of type I need for my GT?
Thanks in advance.
Rini.
The 32/36 DG and DF types have opposite primary/secondary throttle locations. When mounted on the CIH intake manifold and viewed from front, DG types have primary on left while DFs have primary on right. DG types are the ones commonly used on Opel CIH engines.
 

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Yesterday, I was going through the K & N catalog, on line, looking for a suitable air filter for my new hood/engine swap and saw a very neat filter housing for the Weber carbs, it even has two remote air inlet openings on it so cold air can be routed to the housing from outside the engine compartment. All that being said, I don't know if it will fit within the confines of the hood bump on a GT. But it may be worth a look. Check them out at: http://www.knfilters.com/Racing/plenum.htm
Moderator's Note: Added complete link
 

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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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Well if the one you got in the picture is the one you are receiveing you did good. Its already setup with the Opel linkage and air cleaner adaptor. So it should be properly jetted as well. Should just bolt on.

Remember to replace the carb mounting studs, the solex ones are too long for the Weber to go on easily.

Charles
 

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Good Carb...

Looks like that carburettor has been set up for an Opel as it already has the ball on the accellerator linkage and the adaptor on top for connecting the standard air cleaner. Someone has even set the electric choke and idle screw then put a dab of paint on the adjusting screws to make sure they don't get moved before being tried on a new motor - a good buy!
Who ever set it up is obviously very confident that it is set correctly.
 

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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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Just get the seal at the base of the carb set and it will run 10x better than with the Solex, 25x if you were having problems with the Solex in the first place ;)

Make sure to get the base gaskets to install it to the manifold. With a vacuum tight seal at the base you will have no problems with the Weber.

Also check and make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks at the intake manifold gasket either. Many a carb install has driven a mechanic nuts thinking they had a problematic carb, when it was a vacuum leak where the intake and head meet that caused the problems.

Charles
 

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Thx Charles....I just read an article. It says that using Either is an option to check for vacuum leaks.
I sure will check for that..
 

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From the picture that ZmokE sent on 01-17-2005 of the carb., could someone please the me what the purpose on the large headed slotted screw has that is about an inch below the breather? My car will only idle with this screw backed out about 1/8th of a turn.
Thanks Dwight
 

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Split thread

Dwight - that large "screw" you mentioned on the carb is a plug in the end of one of the ports that connect from the carb base to somewhere inside and not an adjustment of any sort - If the air leak you are creating by unscrewing it makes the carb run better then there is something suspect with the air/fuel ratio adjustment of your carb.........
 

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Valve Seals

Smoke on start up is usually due to worn valve guides and/or old valve stem seals. See the post below for how to replace the seals without dismantling the motor ....

Also: The "Tasman Sea" between Australia and New Zealand bears his name - no wonder you have not met him as he was sailing around out here at the end of the 17th Century and is a bit dead now ........ ;)
 

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Thanks Jim for the reply. With this screw tight, the car will idle if the Idle Speed Screw is turned in 3 1/2 turns and the Idle Mixture Screw backed out 4 turns. ( From what I have read, this means Lean) With this "plug" screwed out 1/8 th of a turn, both Mixture and Speed screws are at 2 turns. Either way I set them up there seems to be no difference in the cars performance. Starts good cold, hot, and no hesitation as far as throttle response.
ZmokE, I am sorry for butting in on your post!!
Dwight
 

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ZmokE said:
Almost...it's this one http://opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7353
Too bad that there is not a confirmation that a thread is moved...
Sorry about that, I added the note in the other thread but not this one. Too many threads, not enough typing speed :rolleyes:

In the future, please try to keep threads "on-topic". If you have another question, please do a search to see if a previous thread has answered it, and if a thread comes close, please add to the existing thread rather than starting a new one.

Thanks from the OGT.com Moderating team.
 

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Assumptions

GoinManta said:
Well if the one you got in the picture is the one you are receiveing you did good. Its already setup with the Opel linkage and air cleaner adaptor. So it should be properly jetted as well. Should just bolt on.

Remember to replace the carb mounting studs, the solex ones are too long for the Weber to go on easily.

Charles
I definitely wouldn't be so quick to make this assumption, Charles.

Up to a few years ago when we began actively discussing 32/36 "Opel-specific" tuning within the group here, ~95% of these were just "out of the box" installations! I'd say that's much more than likely the case here too.
 

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No hard feelings Kwilford
You're right if you say that thread was going off-topic...sometimes it just happens talkin about such subjects.
And the search function I already used a lot. As you can see I'm a member since April 2004, and I only have 39 posts. Thanks to the search function who gave a lot of answers.
But sometimes when you hit the search you get a lot of threads with that keyword. Or it's to complicated to understand for me as a Dutchman. Starting a new topic with hopefully a bit easy to understand reply's is then sometimes an option for me.
Okay...back on topic now ;)
 

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A question...
There are two small pipes sealed with tape at the carb (see attachement).
Nr. 1 is for the fuel...I'm pretty sure about that. But what should be connected to Nr.2??
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I don't understand it...
The distributor is allready connected to the intake's vacuum. Is it enough to close the port on the carb...or should it be connected it to something else? I don't see what more should need vacuum beside the brakebooster, the distributor and the valvecover...
In another thread they spoke about distributors vacuum en vacuum retard...i guess thats the same (my english isn't thát good).
Another question...i'm waiting for the gasket/spacer...shoudl i use some gasket sealer on it..or is this not necessary?
 
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