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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Welp, my GT is finally running again!

As Webster and Gary know, I undertook a project to convert my 73 Auto GT into a 4-sp. manual.

I'll start off by saying that I'm only 23, and I've never done anything major mechanically...so this was a new and intimidating project for me. I had a friend to help me, and he knew his stuff, and webster came by and helped for a couple hours, even.

Anyway, we go through the project (this was back in April), and we gave ourselves a week. After 4 days, it seemed done, however she wasn't running properly. Long story short, I have the XR-700 electronic ignition on my GT, and the little optical sensor in the distributor somehow broke, so I was only firing on three cylinders. On top of that, once back together, we broke a bolt trying to replace the water pump...so that wasn't good. Also, there's a leak in the exhaust header, and the throttle spring went away.

So, fast forward two weeks. I get another throttle spring, no big deal; and after a long search on the internet, I found the particular part I needed for the distributor. I replace that, boom, she starts! Yes!

BUT. She's idling high, and there's still coolant leaking out of the water pump area.

Fast forward another couple of weeks, after I replace the brake vacuum hose, realize that's not the vacuum leak. I find the leak, and cool, she runs well. (I'm currently ignoring the exhaust leak)

I figured I'd take the car for a short drive, just to see how all goes. After about 1.5 miles, I smell some burning coolant...hmmm...not good. Again, long story short, the radiator had shifted back into the fan and was ripped open. I got the car home by starting and stopping frequently.

So...yes, that stunk. Well, I found a radiator from opeljunkyard.com for cheap. Then I decided to go for an electric fan, just to prevent that from ever happening again.

Well, got that installed, hooked up a manual switch, and tonight I put her through a real test. I was in traffic for 45 minutes, and then another 30 minutes of all highway, and she ran great! No overheating, nothing seems to have broken.

There are a couple of small issues now, but she will pass inspection, so I'm happy. Basically, right now, here are the remaining problems:

Water pump. It doesn't leak anymore, but there are only 5 bolts in there instead of 6, I need to fix that

radiator: I don't have the bolt for the bottom, so I'm using marine rope to secure the bottom to the frame...very jurry-rigged

reverse grinds all of a sudden...don't know why (any suggestions are welcome. I even double-clutch into reverse and it now grinds, it was working just the other day without a problem)

The brakes are going...really warped rotors, I think

The interior gauge lights don't work. There was a wire cut somewhere when the auto linkage was removed...but I can't find it.

OK, enough of my longwindedness. I'm just so happy that A: she's a standard, and B: she runs!!
 

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Congrats!

Good to see there are more Mass Opelers around than I originally thought!

I am 24, and therefore in a similar boat as yourself. You are a lot more brave (and motivated) than I am to undertake a project such as the auto to stick transition. Good to hear that it worked out for you.

Reverse grinding: Guessing you might want to check the clutch lash to make sure the clutch is releasing all the way. Or tranny fluid might be low, or wrong type. But seeing as it just started, I would put my money on the fluid level (unless you have been doing neutral-drops... oh wait, you took the auto OUT).

Dash lights: The lighting and wiring in the GT is an enigma wrapped in an anomaly (not really, I just never get a chance to use those words). Seriously though, most elecrical problems that I have found all come back to a bad ground... or a cut wire (as you said). Either problem is equally a PITA to locate, but wicked easy to fix.
 

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The brakes are going...really warped rotors, I think
Please don't take chances with brakes.
Stopping is more important than going!

Warped rotors point to sticking calipers. Good luck.

Garry
 

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garrymc said:
Please don't take chances with brakes.
Stopping is more important than going!

Warped rotors point to sticking calipers. Good luck.

Garry
Good point. Also check the rubber brake hoses. They are known to tear on the inside and create a "check valve" flap that holds the calipers in too long giving the same symptoms as warped rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well, my plans for the brakes right now are the rotors and pads, and shoes for the rear, then take it from there. I'm thinking they're warped from the fact that the car sat relatively motionless for 3 months. I drove the car a total of about 3 miles and for 15 minutes over the course of that time.

It doesn't happen at low speeds, really, but it gets worse as I get onto the highway. I guess I'll just see how it goes after the rotor/pad swap, then replace more things if needed.

I'm just kinda relieved that the big part is over with (I hope)


edit: but since it was mentioned, when I go to do those things, I will double check the brake lines...hopefully they're still in good working order.
 
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