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Yesterday I relocated the second red squirrel. Hopefully he will find her, but I noticed a nice barn close to where I let them go.

The mice seemed to have calmed down. I've lost count but it's about 10 so far. I've seen the bucket trap before. The snap traps have been more reliable which just makes it quick. I pulled the rear seat out and found a pile of jimmies that would fill a quart container. There was a nest under there that was about a 1/3 of the seat. It looked like it was made from a wool blanket and was from the past. I've looked in the vent system, behind the rear seat and behind the rear side panels and have not found anything new. Time to work on the smell which is a combination of moth balls and mice pee.

The positive thing was the back seat looks like no one ever sat in it and the mice have me looking at the Manta everyday.
My daughter has a pair of ball-bearing mouse traps in her barn, and they are quite effective.

A ball-bearing mouse trap is otherwise known as a male cat...
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Yesterday I relocated the second red squirrel.......mice......I've lost count, but it's about 10 so far........bucket trap.......snap traps.........jimmies(mouse schitt) that would fill a quart container.............nest......about a 1/3 the size of the seat..........made from a wool blanket......the smell.......is a combination of moth balls and mice pee........the mice have me looking at the Manta everyday.

Gosh, Timbo, you seem to be having WAY more fun with your Opels than I am!


:lmao:
 

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Gosh, Timbo, you seem to be having WAY more fun with your Opels than I am!


:lmao:
Wait until you get the wagon home. It sounds like it is pre-scented and is sure to draw a crowd out there in the garden.

I'm wondering if all of the chrome on the GT is a deterrent to mice. As soon as they jump on it, they look and see themselves and get scared off.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Wah! Ha! Ha! Ha!

Yup, that appears to be the case with my new Opel, too. My plan is to go full nuclear right from the start and gut the whole interior down to the bare painted metal on the very first day I get it. Then a power washing of the whole interior and doors, followed by slathered on fresh paint of some sort.

:veryhappy
 

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Well, as I indicated in an earlier post, I finally gave up on trying to get any one of a multiple number of Solex carburetors to work, and ordered the Weber. Finally got around to installing it today. Car runs well, although I need to spend a bit more time with various settings, but it's a good way to put the car away for the winter, looking forward to next year's driving season. It has been a fun (but expensive!!!!) three years getting to here.
 

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This weekend I replaced the window track and scraper for the front doors and finally added a Pertronix and fixed a vacuum leak. Still need to adjust timing.

While I was in the doors, I repaired the track weld on the drivers door - it no longer sounds like something’s loose and falling apart when you close it—just a satisfying thud, greased the window mechanisms, replaced the interior door pulls (OGTS sale item), tightened the door hinges, and cleaned up some rust inside the doors. The new rubber was easy to install.
 

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I had to get medieval on the rear drums. After sitting for who knows how long the rear drums were stuck fast. Drivers side came off with a blowtorch and a few carefully placed blows with a hand sledge. The blowtorch and sledge didn’t budge the passenger side drum. I had to build a Frankenstein puller out of a HFT gear puller, a 2x4 and a chain,similar to one I saw on YouTube. It worked after a bit of a struggle getting it lined up. The trick was the vertical 2x4 in the photo. With only two jaws it kept wanting to lean as it was tightened. The brace kept it straight and maximized the power of the pull.
 

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This morning I finished installing the new OGTS aluminum radiator, radiator and alternator bushings, water pump, fan, fan belt, thermostat, heater valve, and new hoses all around. Still waiting on that fan shroud to finish it off. The new radiator is a perfect fit and at $199 it's a great deal.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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It's Fall, so it was time to bring all my plants into my sunroom and clean up the mess from my Spring/Summer projects, such as my sunroom redo, GT hood window, and my languishing 4sp auto tranny project. The tranny/engine block combo were still sitting on my rolling work table, so I broke those apart and shelved them and put away plywood and stuff from the sunroom roof and siding redo. I just have a few Opel project odds and end to clear off the countertops. Gotta make room for the '75 Wagon work I hope to get started on this Winter.

IMG_0870.jpg IMG_0871.jpg IMG_0869.jpg
 

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I spent the day (and a good part of a couple other evenings) designing a relay board for my Megasquirt that I got in the mail on Thursday.





As soon as my components show up I will fit them and make fine adjustments. Then send it off to production.
 

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I replaced the front rotors and repacked the front wheel bearings. The brakes on my 69 GT are non functional so I replaced the soft brakes lines to try and some brake fluid to the brake bleeders. This did the trick, I was able to bleed all the brakes, but this resulted in a badly leaking wheel cylinder on the driver’s side rear drum. The other drum and front
Code:
calipers seem to be completely frozen, so next step is to rebuild the calipers and drums.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Can Opeler
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I took a break from Opels this weekend and restored a few of my tools.

First was a 1914 Miller Falls Drill I’ve had for a few years. I fully disassembled it and repainted and greased it. In the background is a later model Miller falls I rebuilt last time.




I also restored a 1906 Royal mfg. hand crank grinder. This one was quite a job, but it shined up nicely and works great aside from the gears being a wee bit sloppy.



I also sanded and restained a the handles on a couple of my yankee screwdrivers. These are all North Brothers Tools Pre war models.
 

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Not mine, but Catherine's car, the green GT she calls Froggy.

Yesterday it got fresh window rubber for the rear and fresh rubber and windshield for the front. We finished installing the rear lights and I worked on the steering column a bit, and scrounging parts from the bin, even got the horn to work. The dash is out now while I try to figure out why a couple of gauges are not working and Catherine is nearly done inserting the chrome strips in the window rubber. Once this is done and we get a new battery and the VIN verified at DMV this car will be on the road again, after 20+ years in storage.

This is Catherine's first car. She bought it when she was 16 and used her baby sitting/newspaper delivery/ice cream scooping money to buy it. This is pretty exciting for her, and for me.

The can still needs a lot of work. Oil pressure is low, there is significant rust damage on the driver's side floor, and the headlight wiring is borderline, but it will run okay for now. She may be back for a motor by next summer.

Mike
 

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I installed rocker type throttle linkage for my DSD carbs. It allowed me to use standard GT throttle mechanism instead of cables. This type of linkage is very common for DSD but it requires installation of posts that hold the whole mechanism. As DSD intakes for CIH engines do not have designated threaded holes for linkage posts, I fabricated brackets using sturdy L-profile pieces.
 

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Can Opeler
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I installed rocker type throttle linkage for my DSD carbs. It allowed me to use standard GT throttle mechanism instead of cables. This type of linkage is very common for DSD but it requires installation of posts that hold the whole mechanism. As DSD intakes for CIH engines do not have designated threaded holes for linkage posts, I fabricated brackets using sturdy L-profile pieces.
That looks great!!! May I ask what gasket kit you are using? That looks to be a much better design than my Redline soft mount kit.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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I installed rocker type throttle linkage for my DSD carbs. It allowed me to use standard GT throttle mechanism instead of cables. This type of linkage is very common for DSD but it requires installation of posts that hold the whole mechanism. As DSD intakes for CIH engines do not have designated threaded holes for linkage posts, I fabricated brackets using sturdy L-profile pieces.
Hey! You said you were putting your car away for the Winter. No fair doing even more cool stuff to it!

:lmao:
 

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Kyler, I am also using Redline gaskets, except I replaced rubber rings with Viton rings.
The springs that hold the carburetor came with Dbials intakes.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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I tried to use those clamp on levers during my very first attempt at making a cable throttle. I attached one of those levers to the solid linkage front-to-rear rod to pull on the cable. It kept moving on the rod and I couldn't tighten it enough to stay put for very long. I'd drive a mile and then all of a sudden I'd step on the gas and nothing would happen. The lever had rotated on the rod.

Based on that experience, if it was me, I would tack weld them to the shaft. Or design sturdier, better gripping, levers. But, my levers and stuff were used and yours look brand new and probably have nice sharp edges to dig in and stuff.

This is a Honda rear brake lever with a really nice "gripper":

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-72-Honda-CB350-CL350-CB-CL-350-H1449-1-rear-brake-plate-lever-actuator-arm/292443479388?hash=item4416fd5d5c:g:j7EAAOSwlv9acNAV:rk:97:pf:0

Actuator lever.jpg

We have lots of lever-actuated limit switches on fork lifts and other machines here at work that use a lever that looks like this:

limit switch lever.jpg



Of course, PJ is a genius and I'm sure his set up will work longer than any wackadoodle idea I come up with.

:lmao:
 
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