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Can Opeler
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All the gauges and gauge lights work on the Targa now! I’m pulling out the clock now to fix it. I need both of my GTs to give that loud clunk every couple minutes when the clock rewinds!

BTW I can remove all of my gauges without removing my dash! My glove box is removable and I have no heater so I can quite literally fit my head behind the dash from the passenger foot well!:)


Edit:
Working clock installed! The borg ones are tougher to fix. I prefer the older Keinzle design.
I can sleep in peace now. I’ll wire a circuit for it tomorrow. I didn’t include it in my original schematic for the Targa.
 

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Last week I replaced the vent hose that goes from the right front of the fuel tank to the 'T' by the filler pipe.
The tank end of that clear hose was HARD where fuel pooled there, the other end had separated from the 'T'.
It was replaced with almost 5 feet of rubber fuel line which should last longer. ...I don't smell gas now.

Now for some Opel fun. I took the GT to it's first show this year, 5/4/2019, Scuderia Southwest, in Scottsdale.
One of the first to approach was Hal, who said he was past President of the New England Opel Club.
Hal is now collecting VW Siroccos and Corvettes, pic attached.
Craig & Doug showed with Doug's nice Manta, later we parked together.

I called Gary, he told me that he had met Hal but that Hal was President before his (Gary's) involvement.
Some of you Alt-Timers ( Sorry..Old-Timers ) may remember Hal. We will probably meet at a different car show in 2 weeks.

Craig, Doug, the other Doug, and I met for a late Denny's breakfast special....
......I ate my hat, as in..."I will eat my hat if they cancel this show". ( They Did )
 

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A few more pics from the canceled show.
1st a Corvette powered Stinger, 1 of 2 built.
Last, 2 Saturn Skys , ( coulda' been Opel GTs ).
 

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As always your GT looks great Roy.

That Manta is a good looking car, even with the giant U.S. spec bumpers.

I had two Manta's as daily drivers many years ago. Really solid little cars. Didn't handle as well as a 2002, but still way better than the average small car. I remember when I had the Navy blue Manta driving a friend's Pinto (can't remember why, but surely it was not by choice... probably was delivering it for him). That Pinto almost went off the road twice just because it handled so poorly. What a POS.
 

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Knorm…. your electrical work looks great..... I only wish my underdash was that organized.
Roy's 1100 GT always looks great … he just needs to get it out more.... with the Phoenix heat that means EARLY morning car show like Penske's on the 3rd Saturday of every month.
 

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All the gauges and gauge lights work on the Targa now! I’m pulling out the clock now to fix it. I need both of my GTs to give that loud clunk every couple minutes when the clock rewinds!

BTW I can remove all of my gauges without removing my dash! My glove box is removable and I have no heater so I can quite literally fit my head behind the dash from the passenger foot well!:)


Edit:
Working clock installed! The borg ones are tougher to fix. I prefer the older Keinzle design.
I can sleep in peace now. I’ll wire a circuit for it tomorrow. I didn’t include it in my original schematic for the Targa.
Kyler:

I am impressed that figured out how to repair the old clocks. I vote you post a tutorial next time you get into one.

Lots of room on the gauges! Well done.
 

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Nice work, as usual, Kyler! I'm also interested in how you fixed the clock. I have several from various parts cars over the years and would like to have a working one in my GT.
 

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Nice shots. Still waiting on that clock tutorial.
FWIW, most that fix their clocks do so by sanding down the tiny contacts inside the mechanism.
What most people don't realize is that the contacts are coated so they don't spark. Sanding them will work for a while but the clock will usually die again within a year.

I'd like to see a repair that adds a no-contact reset device.
 

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Can Opeler
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FWIW, most that fix their clocks do so by sanding down the tiny contacts inside the mechanism.
What most people don't realize is that the contacts are coated so they don't spark. Sanding them will work for a while but the clock will usually die again within a year.

I'd like to see a repair that adds a no-contact reset device.
That’s the borg clocks that have that issue. The Keizle ones have a little fusible link thing that blows. Replace it with solder and it will work for years.
I would do a video, but I’m out of clocks. I need a box of them to do it lol.
 

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Does it count if ...?

Does it count if it is not MY Opel? I've been very busy on someone else's car, but that is the subject of another thread!

Doug

Sorry, I couldn't resist!
 
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That’s the borg clocks that have that issue. The Keizle ones have a little fusible link thing that blows. Replace it with solder and it will work for years.
I would do a video, but I’m out of clocks. I need a box of them to do it lol.
First your get a picture here from the Kienzle fail.This fusible link will blow when the clockwork is not clean enough and stuck.But when all is clean up and the link is repair,the clock will run again for years as Kyler wrote.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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FWIW, most that fix their clocks do so by sanding down the tiny contacts inside the mechanism.
What most people don't realize is that the contacts are coated so they don't spark. Sanding them will work for a while but the clock will usually die again within a year.

I'd like to see a repair that adds a no-contact reset device.
Maybe recoat the contacts with dielectric grease?

At my job our machines have thousands of electrical connectors and some guys are way to anxious to spray them with contact cleaner. This removes the grease and sets up a situation where those connectors now have to be pulled apart and resprayed with cleaner every few months because now the terminals are corroding.
 

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I finished installing the motor in Catherine's car. Dang if it wasn't a lot more work than a Tinyvette motor swap. With all the rust and weirdnesses I spent tons of time just cleaning up old parts, running taps over bolts and dies in bolt holes, power washing the transmission, carburetor, intake, thermostat housing, and more. With the Tinyvette everything is already clean so it just takes a little wrenching to get it our and a new one back in, and everything fits. With Catherine's the throttle linkage was binding and that took a while to get worked out.

But today it was all back in, and it would not fire. A squirt of starter fluid, and it fired and ran up to 2500 rpm before quitting. And it was backfiring like crazy. Static timing reset, no change. Took off the carburetor to inspect. Found nothing. It was getting fuel but it would not run the engine. I dribbled gas in it and the engine started, just like with started fluid. Figuring there was water in the tank I flushed the fuel lines and float bowl and hooked up a gas can. No difference.

Figuring it would run if really rich, and then it would run fast, I suspected a vacuum leak so I closed off the distributor advance ports. It started and sort of ran. It still backfired a lot. Big yellow flames shooting into the air. I never had that before.

Cam timing? It looks like it. I pulled the valve cover and bumped it around to #4. It was difficult to see around the radiator hose but it was clear that the dowel was not straight up, plus the mark was advanced at least 2 teeth. I figure the chain slipped a tooth on the lower sprocket while the chain was slack. Last week I had the head off to inspect, and the oil pan. The motor had sat outside under a tarp since last summer and I wanted to check for rust.

It took all day, and it was cold and drizzling and windy, but at least I figured it out. Tomorrow I'll finish this.

Mike
 

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It turns out, in better light and from a better angle, that cam timing is good.

The engine fires, runs very briefly, backfires, then quits. Cam and ignition timing are good. Compression (cold) is good. Firing order is good. All of the valves go up and down. I unplugged one spark plug at a time and there was no change which tells me all of them backfire. The engine ran fine on the test stand last summer.

That's what I'm doing on this Opel today.

Mike
 

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It turns out, in better light and from a better angle, that cam timing is good.

The engine fires, runs very briefly, backfires, then quits. Cam and ignition timing are good. Compression (cold) is good. Firing order is good. All of the valves go up and down. I unplugged one spark plug at a time and there was no change which tells me all of them backfire. The engine ran fine on the test stand last summer.

That's what I'm doing on this Opel today.

Mike
I didn't read if the car has points or some other firing mechanism but this is the symptom of bad points, condenser or ground strap inside the dizzy.

It seems the engine is firing when it's not supposed to.

Also, check the inside of the dizzy cap to see if there's any dirt.
 

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Took the GT about 25 miles north today to a small town Labor Day car show and Festival. Not to much interest in dem dare Furen cars. I think four of us in between a bunch of Detroit Iron. Opel GT, MGB, MG Midget, Rolls Royce.
 
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