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Just came in from the shop, what could be difficult about putting the gauge cluster back in? I had done it about 12 times before, now I can't seem to get it in place to put the screws in. I want to drive the GT not work on it. If you have any shortcuts to get it in, let me know, believe me, I am all ears.

Bob
 

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seems like it should go in the way it came out LOL
Sorry for that I haven't had mine out yet wish I could help you
Hopefully by the time you read this you did it already and are laughing about it
 

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Those clip-on nuts often rotate or move during removal of instrument panel, so the panel screws will miss them during reinstallation. The problem is annoying as it is blind operation with nuts covered with instrument panel. I usually prepare several wires approx. 5-6” long (I use old bicycle spokes) to put them through the panel holes into nuts and then slide the panel in its place. The wires will align nuts with panel holes perfectly, making it easy to install screws.
 

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RunOpel
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That is an excellent tip P.J. :) I haven't removed my dash as many times as you have Bob, but again I haven't owned my GT for as long as you have. I have removed my dash just three times and eventually going to do it again to replace dash lights with LED and repair small leak in heater core and install new radio. Your tip P.J. came at a good time, thanks :)
 

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Thanks, I am going to try to put the gauge panel in again today. I took the radio body out, hopefully with the other suggestions I can get it back in today.

Bob
 

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Those clip-on nuts often rotate or move during removal of instrument panel, so the panel screws will miss them during reinstallation. The problem is annoying as it is blind operation with nuts covered with instrument panel. I usually prepare several wires approx. 5-6” long (I use old bicycle spokes) to put them through the panel holes into nuts and then slide the panel in its place. The wires will align nuts with panel holes perfectly, making it easy to install screws.
Start each one of the gauge cluster screws before final tightening.
Usually, one of more panel nuts pop off, and you have to start over.
Could cut heads off on some extra sheet metal screws to create stud locators?
 

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Well, I had the Hot Water heater go on the blink, I didn't really expect to get 18 years of service out of it. Spent the day trying to get hot water, finally got it about 4 PM yesterday. Since I am working on the GT, I guess the GT will have to wait a little longer. Thanks to all that commented on my dilemma, I am sure I can get the gauge cluster put in again, just have to find the time. It is really bad when retirement has more work than when I was working.
 

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Wow Keith, your GT is impeccable. Great job as it looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor.

Bob
I presume you mean my GT, Bob. If so, thanks!

I had to take last week off from working on getting my Opel GT ready for it's first ever car show, Calgary World of Wheels Feb 21 to 23, to go see my 96 1/2 yer old mom. But she's much better now, thanks for asking :) , and we drove back Saturday from Winnipeg (14 hours each way, straight thru...).

My plan is to take it to my autobody painter Tuesday, and he will detail the paint and make it very pretty. Then I'll haul it straight to the car show. No salt or slush on my baby THIS time. After the novelty has worn off, I'll drive it the way I built it. Fast and hard.

Today I got to working on Matt's trailer that he loaned me (that he brought the soon-to-be electric GT home from Arizona; Doug aka slracer will recognize it!) and did a test load of my GT on it. It has nice long 8 foot ramps to prevent the belly pan from hitting, although a car heavier than a GT might bend them a bit (I think Matt's Caravan did when he had to collect it after a deer-hit). The side rails are about 3 inches too high to swing the GT's door open to get out. Pending a more significant modification (raising the deck 4 inches, which also clears the fenders), I sawzall'd the back 4 feet of rail off. I'll either re-weld it on after the show, set 5 inches lower, or make it removable w/ bolts and welded clips. That allows the car to be driven on, with the car over to the right as far as I dared, to where the back wheels are on the flat deck. Then I squeezed out the door CAREFULLY with the window open, released the e-brake and rolled it CAREFULLY forward, and set the e-brake and put it in gear. Opened the door enough to reach in to roll the window up, and Bob's your uncle...

Tomorrow, I'll load it again to test out the straps and install some wheel chocks. Then World of Wheel, here I come!
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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Hope your trip goes smoothly . Grease up the wheel bearings fresh!
Dunno if the rail helps the deck strength... Might want to consider that.
And if you want some really stout ramp material, get some 2" thick laminated beam in 12 or 14" width. Put some deck preservative on it and it will last a loooong time. I have a pair almost 30 years old that takes 1900's and Manta's and our 3200 lb Starion with no metal braces.
 

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RunOpel
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That is a beautiful Opel GT Keith. I presume you will cover it while in transit. Good luck at the car show and safe travels. (Wow your mom is 96 1/2 years old, amazing)
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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And if I can suggest, go out and get a come-along to attach to the car for that last push/pull and hook it to the uphill end each time . You're not always going to be on level ground, and if it gets going, that's bad. We tie down with 2 chains on the rear axle and 2 come-alongs up front.
And just to keep stress off the tongue and ball, we set a jackstand under the rear of the trailer when loading and unloading.
 
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