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Opel Rallier since 1977
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1,217 Posts
And Manta Rallier, as funny as it sounds, its NOT. But at least you know what the problem is :)
Yeah.. the problem is ME LOL. 2nd time in my engine buillding that I have dumped a big wad of oil on the ground. I just looked at it and said....'You dumb-axx'.

Off to the machine shop for more!
 

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Opeler
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3,594 Posts
I am using large rubber bushings on the front end of adjustable trailing arms. They are much bigger than standard Opel bushings including larger bolts.
Those bushings required some fabrication to fit the GT. I am really satisfied with them as they do not flex much and still insulates the drive train noise. They come with grease fittings, so I usually grease them once a year, at the beginning of the season.
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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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13,958 Posts
I got my balls busted for having an ugly, yellow paint over sprayed, flex plate on my tranny in my new video, so I painted it silver:

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And then I thought: I'll bet they bust my balls for having the black painted cast iron tranny-engine support that I've been using......

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......so I just went down in the basement and painted that silver, too.:

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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13,958 Posts
Funny thing: It came to me in black. I cleaned it and just now painted it and I guess there was some oily film still on a small area of it and the fresh paint started to bubble up. So I tried wiping off the paint, which came right off, but that also took the black paint off that was underneath it. Guess what was underneath the black paint? Silver paint!

🤪
 

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Opeler
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693 Posts
I worked on several things today. I calculated advance timing (currently at 18 degrees BTDC using digital timing light, yikes!), and I’m installing the new 123Ignition distributor tomorrow). I tackled baseline setting the carbs and trying to balance the DCOE carbs and getting it to idle tonight. I have an auto transmission, and it’s quite a difference from idle speed in park vs in-gear. After screw adjustments according to the Weber book, I had it idling...woohoo! Idle speed in park is around 1200, idle speed in gear, barely running at 750ish. The carb balanced tool is showing each barrel pulling in WAY too much air, it should be around 5 and mine is somewhere between 10-15, I need to tackle this.

When I got in the car to put it in gear, I stepped in the brake pedal and noticed the idle dropped. I let off and then pumped the brakes twice, idle dropped even further and car about died. Tried it again and went for a 3rd pump and I had to hit the accelerator to keep it from dying. Looks like I have a vacuum leak to chase down.

Also, I discovered oil leaking from the giant bolt on the passenger side of the timing cover, that sucks.

On a positive note, I feel like I’m making progress and it’s nice to be working on my car again.

Onward and upward...if anyone has any advice please fire away.

Eric
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Super Moderator
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13,225 Posts
Also, I discovered oil leaking from the giant bolt on the passenger side of the timing cover, that sucks.
That’s the timing chain tensioner. It should have an aluminum crush washer under the head. If not...if will leak pretty badly!
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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13,958 Posts
Your auto tranny will squash the rpms down to 800rpm or so when in Drive and stopped even if you set idle in Park/Neutral to 1500rpm. So, 750 is normal.

Please elaborate on this carb balancing tool whatever reading. What do you mean that your cylinders are sucking in too much air? The more the better AFAIK. What are those numbers, vacuum in Hg's? Are you using a motorcycle carb balancer? Where are you tapping in to take those readings? Remember: Since you have unified your runners/plenums, you're testing all 4 cylinders at the same time and whatever vacuum leak you may or may not have somewhere in your vacuum system.
 

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Opeler
Joined
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693 Posts
Eric,
Sounds like a faulty brake booster. If you plug the hose before it enters the booster, does it still stall/stumble
when you apply the brakes?
Good luck. You've really made a lot of progress on your GT this year!
Cheers,
Ron in FL
Thanks Ron, appreciate the comment. I haven’t tried anything yet, I called it a night when I discovered that issue. I’m hoping to work on it again today, and I’ll be sure to check it out. I’m going to check every vacuum hose and it’s connection, but I’ll start with the brake booster one first.
 

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Opeler
Joined
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693 Posts
Your auto tranny will squash the rpms down to 800rpm or so when in Drive and stopped even if you set idle in Park/Neutral to 1500rpm. So, 750 is normal.

Please elaborate on this carb balancing tool whatever reading. What do you mean that your cylinders are sucking in too much air? The more the better AFAIK. What are those numbers, vacuum in Hg's? Are you using a motorcycle carb balancer? Where are you tapping in to take those readings? Remember: Since you have unified your runners/plenums, you're testing all 4 cylinders at the same time and whatever vacuum leak you may or may not have somewhere in your vacuum system.
I actually don’t have all 4 runners tied together, only cylinders 2 & 4. The tool I am using is attached in the picture. Every single online tutorial for this seems to shoot for 5 kg/h. You insert this tool in the throat of each runner on the carbs.

Hope that helps.

Eric

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Opel Rallier since 1977
Joined
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1,217 Posts
I'd not go by that tool and the 'normal' or 'typical' readings at all. It may well respond to peak flows, or be effected by reversion or overlap flow of some intake charge on out the exhaust, in each throat from a big cam. Use it to make them equal.

Your flow is effected by: RPM, displacement, altitude, cam, ignition timing. You can check the plugs after idling a bit to see if your mixture is about right. More advanced timing will lower flow to a point: the timing advance will raise idle speed since it is helping the engine to extract more torque from each combustion pulse, and so you lower the idle settings.

But that idle speed drop when going into gear is not right. It may be that you are too lean on the idle mixture screws, and are operating on the progressives a bit or a lot. The normal drop in RPM and ariflow drops the carb out of the progressive and you lose a lot of fuel. Try cranking the idle mixture screws up a bit richer, lower the RPM in Park and then see what the RPM drop is going into gear.

What cam and displacement do you have Jesse? And yeah. that IS a bit of a leak!
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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1,217 Posts
Getting the Ascona moved to where I can set up the engine hoist and pull the block out, getting ready for the new engine. Dang rain is coming for the next few days. Maybe I'll set up a canopy over it.....
 

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Senior Contributor
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1,462 Posts
Today I restored My Old Headlight Actuator Cable, The cable outside coating Plastic coating became brittle and lots of the Coating were flaking off, Orginal Cable been working flawlessly, 50 year cable
I stripped and cleaned and lubed cable first, I find hanging the cable with funnel attached at one end, then added cleasner and lube into the funnel until is reaches the end of cable, working cable.
Then I re-coated the cable with fresh Heat shrink Rubber Coating sleeve.
I prefer to use the original cable rather then the Aftermarket ones..
 

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