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Spaceman
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338 Posts
Drove across Oresund bridge few years ago, not my Opel unfortunately. View attachment 426276 View attachment 426277
@PJ Roman, Not 100% sure but I suspect you where going from Denmark to Sweden, which is the totally wrong direction..- they only have piss poor Pripps beer and surstømming (fermented baltic herring). Taste and smell of the latter can and will make grown cry and vomit. I rather eat raw dog testis
 

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Registered
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658 Posts
Not to mention their falukorv, a mix of flour and fat that they call sausage. Or their interpretation of sauna-bathing, which is sitting with the speedos on or swept in a towel in a lukewarm sauna reading a newspaper.
:eek:
För alla svenskar som läser, det är bara på skoj.
:)
 

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Super Moderator
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5,718 Posts
During the lock-down, I am trying to keep busy working on my freshly restored Opel GT. Frankly, I am running out of things to do! But since the weather has turned nice and I now have it registered and insured, I can get to do some re-jetting of my 38DGAS whilst driving it with intent (vs sitting in my heated garage).

And while I am at it, I offered to re-jet Sterling's 32/36DGEV, so he dropped it off a couple of days ago to let it self-isolate for a bit. In a different time, we would do that together, but it is tricky to maintain social distancing while working on a car, and I have the Weber jetting kit and a bit more spare time.

We both have AEM wide-band AFR sensors and gauges, although Sterling's is showing VERY lean all the time (off-scale lean). I am suspecting an air leak at the sensor fitting or possibly at the header flange just upstream, and a leak there will introduce air, and hence oxygen, and make the sensor show a very lean combustion. Today's task is to trouble shoot the AFR gauge.

Here are our cars sitting on my driveway yesterday. With luck, we will be able to go for drives soon, if even just to wave at each other through the side windows.
 

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Detritus Maximus
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2,135 Posts
That doesn't sound good....

I had an old duckbill that came loose on the highway. I still have all the pieces....so I can glue it back together.
I have two more for future use, but always looking around to see what other types their are.
 

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Opeler
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3,641 Posts
@PJ Roman, Not 100% sure but I suspect you where going from Denmark to Sweden, which is the totally wrong direction..- they only have piss poor Pripps beer and surstømming (fermented baltic herring). Taste and smell of the latter can and will make grown cry and vomit. I rather eat raw dog testis
Actually, I made a trip from Eskilstuna, Sweden where I lived at the time, to Frankfurt, Germany. So, the correct direction, 1400 km for a good beer.
426287
 

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Opeler
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759 Posts
I’ve been really working hard to get the ignition timing set and get the carbs tuned & balanced. I spent a few hours a couple of nights ago working on the carbs; and finally got things really close to good. I chased vacuum leaks, got those squared away. I still have a small oil drop, a cracked speedo cable which is leaking transmission fluid that I need to tackle. Plus the car has no interior in it at all, other than the dash. But I got the motor in a place I felt like it was time for a test drive to see how things go. So I put two bolts in each seat, and decided today was the day to give it a go.

So, I drove my car today for the first time in 4 years. 4 freaking years. I took 4 laps around the neighborhood, which is about a 2 mile round trip from my house. The best part about it, I had my two little boys (4 & 6) with me for 3 of the laps. It was the best.

Onward and upward.

Eric

426303
 

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I’ve been really working hard to get the ignition timing set and get the carbs tuned & balanced. I spent a few hours a couple of nights ago working on the carbs; and finally got things really close to good. I chased vacuum leaks, got those squared away. I still have a small oil drop, a cracked speedo cable which is leaking transmission fluid that I need to tackle. Plus the car has no interior in it at all, other than the dash. But I got the motor in a place I felt like it was time for a test drive to see how things go. So I put two bolts in each seat, and decided today was the day to give it a go.

So, I drove my car today for the first time in 4 years. 4 freaking years. I took 4 laps around the neighborhood, which is about a 2 mile round trip from my house. The best part about it, I had my two little boys (4 & 6) with me for 3 of the laps. It was the best.

Onward and upward.

Eric
Are you sure that it is the speedometer cable that is the source of the leak? I recently fixed the same problem. The linked article from Opel GT Source (page 2) suggests these leaks are more often sourced at a worn O-ring and seal in the speedometer drive gear housing that has to be removed from the transmission. This job is a bit more difficult if the gearbox is an early version (1969-70) as mine is; a bit simpler if a later version. Once out, the O-ring is an easy fit, but the inner seal can take a bit more patience. If your car has the earlier gearbox, see my comment several posts above on what I found to be a fairly easy way to remove the retaining pin for the drive gear housing.
 

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RunOpel
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1,204 Posts
Way to go Eric :) I bet your boys had a time of their life and you as well. Your Opel GT looks awesome and I love those wheels :)
 

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I gave Mira a bath to get ready for a car show. Also gave the new rev limiter some testing on the highway. It works great! I have it set to 5700rpm right now, which is way too low! I’m bumping it up to 6k now. It’s nice to blast the carbon off of these engines every once and awhile. My engine loves high revs with the single side draft tuned like it is and the headers + 2” exhaust. I can’t wait to dyno it again.


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I watched your video, a couple weeks ago, on how to change out the seals on the transmission - speedometer cable and wanted to say thank you. That could have been a real disaster as it is everything went smoothly, thanks to you. Funny my speedometer jumped after I made the change but then settled down. Wish there were more videos and more pictures.
 

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Opeler
Joined
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759 Posts
Are you sure that it is the speedometer cable that is the source of the leak? I recently fixed the same problem. The linked article from Opel GT Source (page 2) suggests these leaks are more often sourced at a worn O-ring and seal in the speedometer drive gear housing that has to be removed from the transmission. This job is a bit more difficult if the gearbox is an early version (1969-70) as mine is; a bit simpler if a later version. Once out, the O-ring is an easy fit, but the inner seal can take a bit more patience. If your car has the earlier gearbox, see my comment several posts above on what I found to be a fairly easy way to remove the retaining pin for the drive gear housing.
I can see the area of the Speedo cable that has the black sleeve broken. Fluid runs out of there for sure. I do have a full gasket and seal set for the automatic transmission, so it’s on the list of things still left to do.

Way to go Eric :) I bet your boys had a time of their life and you as well. Your Opel GT looks awesome and I love those wheels :)
Thanks! They boys had a great time and are already asking about more rides and going faster. Appreciate the comment on the wheels, I think they’re a great look for my car.

Eric
 

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Senior Contributor
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4,961 Posts
I still have a small oil drop, a cracked speedo cable which is leaking transmission fluid that I need to tackle
This is a seal problem for sure, there is not supposed to be oil inside the speedo cable.
 

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Senior Contributor
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4,961 Posts
Spent some time adjusting my valves a couple days ago. The inside of the engine looks almost as clean as the day I finished building it.
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RunOpel
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1,204 Posts
Wow beautiful Jeff :) Nice to see your hard efforts are still showing :)
 

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Senior Contributor
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4,961 Posts
Went for a ride yesterday to get out of the house for a few minutes and also to work on the tune. While I was out I ran into a friend of mine who has a BMW Z3 with a 2.3 in it. I found out that my GT is faster than his Z :p
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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1,454 Posts
HYDRAULIC LIFTER HUNG UP

Fabbed up a new 2" exhaust system with a Dynomax muffler so it is pretty free flowing and open. Once started, you could hear what was suspected to be one of the exhaust valves making an odd noise.... a 'ting, ting, ting, ting, ting, ting" sound heard out of the new exhaust. I have been suspecting that maybe one of the OGTS rebuilt lifters for the cam was not quite right, and this was showing it was on the exhaust side.

So today, all the lifters were pulled to examine them for any odd wear on the lifter base... all looked good, so reinstalled and adjusted the standard 3/4 turn. Started and all heck broke loose.... sounded like bent valves ! Not a happy moment LOL

Opened the cover and check the lifters all out... a couple were collapsed, but the #4 exhaust lifter plunger was still fully up; it had not settled down after the adjustment as it should have. By adjusting the rocker nut, it was clear that the #4 exhaust was being hung open by this lifter.

After backing off the #4 ex adjuster (to treat it like a solid lifter), a compression check verified that no valves were bent. I was concerned as the engine has maybe .100-.120" or so of piston-to-valve clearance, and the #4 exhaust was being hung open quite a way.

Pulled that hung lifter and disassembled. The plunger did not want to come out. Finally tapped, and wiggled, and pulled it out. Found some very slight dirt/corrison on the upper part of the plunger, but even after considerable cleaning, sanding with 600 grit wetordry, and even some fine filing, that plunger did not like being in that lifter body. It was tight and not fully free no matter what I did.

So dug out an old lifter, pulled the plunger out of that after cleaning and checking the check valve, and voila, it slipped into the #4 exhaust lifter body and worked smoothly. And the newer plunger worked fine in the old lifter. So this #4 ex rebuilt lifter just had a plunger and body at opposite ends of the diameter tolerances.

OGTS has these rebuilt and are supposedly all disassembled and cleaned, but whoever assembles them may not be paying attention to the plunger fit in the bore of the body. Once this was installed and started, then #4 cylinder was fine, but then another cylinder was not working right on the exhaust side. You could hear a very disruptive 'tock, tock, tock, tock, tock, tock,...." out of the exhaust and a very loud lifter noise under the valve cover. Once warmed up for a few minutes, I gently revved the engine a couple time, and things smoothed out. SO I am 99% certain that a different exhaust lifter was having trouble pumping up and may be leaking down.

Soooo.... all the rest of these rebuilt lifters are coming apart to clean and examine the check valves and plunger to body tolerances. Whoever is rebuilding these needs to do a bit better job.

And, in the middle of all this... the starter hung LOL. Had to run for a wrench to disconnect the battery. Pulled the starter and lubed the Bendix and solenoid. And, found that a PO had left one of the lower trannie bolts out.... no wonder it has a leak at the front gasket! It's like all these cars.. you had better plan on touching everything!

BTW here is a pix of the #4 ex lifter with the plunger stuck up and a couple of the others collapsed. (#1 intake and #3 exhaust)
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IMG_20200503_162202022_HDR.jpg
 

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Member
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I thought I would share some lifter photos so people can see what you are talking about.
 

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