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Opel Rallier since 1977
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1,475 Posts
Thanks Guy. Mine have an upper part made a bit differently but that is the idea. I have never had a hydraulic lifter hang open.... collapse, yes, but not hang open like this one. It was pretty clean inside, but the plunger was just too tight in the lifter body. I'll see once I run this some more, but I hope that what I thought was a bit of piston slap when cold (forged pistons so big piston-to-bore clearances) turns out to be this lifter wanting to not adjust properly, and just causing a very slight exhaust leak much of the time.
 

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RunOpel
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1,206 Posts
Manta Rallier did you hear the noise before installing the new exhaust or after installing the exhaust? If I was to have lifter problems, I should be able to hear any unusual noises without modifying my exhaust correct? The reason I ask is I have an original 1.9 in a 1971 Opel GT with 122,000, but so far engine runs awesome.
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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1,475 Posts
Dpre, I only clearly heard it after the new exhaust AND when started it up cold. The exhaust note seemed nice and even before, and I purposely listened to the exhaust note right after break-in to see if the cylinders seemed to be firing evenly, and several times afterwards. But the engine was always warmed up in all those cases.

So this may have happened prior to the new exhaust installation and I never caught it. It has seemed to be making some tapping noises that I attributed to piston slap, that would gradually clear up as the engine warmed up. But it may well be that the lifters have been acting up when cold. I'll know today when I start it up; if I have some tapping, it'll very probably be from a couple of these lifters leaking down/collapsing overnight.

As said, I have never had a lifter hang up like this. So that problem is kinda unusual IMHO. Lifters leaking down/collapsing due to poor internal tolerances of plunger-in-body, or dirt in the check valves, is a known issue, and they typically will pump back up after a few seconds or a few minutes.

BTW, this is the 2nd time I've detected a hydraulic lifter issue by listening closely to the exhaust note. The prior time was 2 years ago on my son's 340; it started having a slightly uneven sound in the right bank exhaust at 500 miles, and at 1000 miles, it was distinctly missing something on one cylinder. Sure 'nuff; the #4 exhaust lifter had gone soft.. not fully collapsed, but not holding up properly to the spring pressure. Replaced that one, and bam-o, a nice and even exhaust note again.

We've been finding hydraulic lifter issues more and more starting around 15 years ago. It seems like the quality control has gone downhill as things get shopped outside of the US. I suspect some of the fine-detailed knowledge, that was developed in the 50's and 60's when hydraulic lifters first proliferated widely in engines, has been lost over the years, and you have just plain production people churning them out. Makes me want to think about solid lifters! I never had these issues back-in-the-day with Opel lifters or any other hydraulic lifter type.
 

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RunOpel
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1,206 Posts
Thanks for the reply, very interesting about the hydraulic lifters. Since I got my GT about 5 years ago, I have never done anything with the valves like adjusting. When would I have to do any sort of adjusting? It has original miles of 122,000 with great oil pressure and compression. I don't notice any unusual noises, but my hearing isn't all that great either.
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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1,475 Posts
Once the hydraulics are adjusted, they have quite a bit of range to absorb wear in the valve train (lifters, cam lobes, rockers balls and rocker tips). And since you have original lifters, those seemed to be pretty faultless. So I would have someone with good high frequency hearing listen to the valve cover area when warmed up, and if there are no distinctly loud, high-pitched tapping noises, then leave it alone and keep good clean oil in it. The lifters and valve train can normally make some very quiet tapping noises, like a sewing machine quietly running.
 

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RunOpel
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1,206 Posts
Thanks Mark, I appreciate the advice. I have never adjusted valves, so probably one day I will have to do it.
 

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Member
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1,556 Posts
My complete 2.2 engine was dropped off yesterday, so I can start my rebuild of my engine.
John
 

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Opeler
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769 Posts
I’ve done a few things over the last couple of weeks.

I have been hearing a squeal when I give it gas from idle, I figured it was my fan/alternator belt....yep, it was. I tightened it up and the sound went away but I’m still hearing a slight squeak at idle...I’m guessing alternator or water pump bearing, but thats for another day.

When I spoke with a tech guy from Pegasus Racing a couple weeks ago, he was adamant that I don’t touch the jetting of the carbs again until I check my floats, reroute the fuel fittings and install a fuel pressure gauge. I haven’t gotten to the floats yet.

Started the engine up in the a garage to continue to work on balancing the carbs. Gordo was nice enough to send me some jets to try out for my DCOEs, but I need to get the carbs balanced right before I go that route. I made some really good headway and am really really close on having them balanced. I would like to make the car easier to start when cold, it’s really kind of a chore....once it fires I’m great, but it takes several attempts. Any suggestions on that? Especially if you’ve had DCOE carbs, anyone else experience that?

A week ago, I rerouted my fuel line to the carbs, using a T in the middle of them, also installed a fuel pressure gauge a week ago. I have noticed the few times I’ve ran the car since installing it, the gauge is reading between 2 1/2 - 3 1/2 PSI. Today it was 3 1/2, which is the highest it has been.

When I spoke with a tech guy from Pegasus Racing a couple weeks ago, he was adamant that I don’t touch the jetting of the carbs again until I check my floats, reroute the fuel fittings and install a fuel pressure gauge. I haven’t gotten to the floats yet.

I also noticed exhaust “splatter” out of the tailpipes at start-up, which I’ve seemed to have nearly the whole time I’ve had the car. Does anyone else experience this?

Eric

426664
 

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Vendor
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2,516 Posts
Discussion Starter #770
Eric,
It sounds like you almost have the carbs dialed in. I don't know squat about DCOE's but I'm sure someone will chime in. With the Weber 32/36, mechanical fuel pump, and electric choke, cold starts usually only required a few pumps of the pedal to fill the bowl and set the choke. ("Warm" starts were a lot more problematic) I'm guessing the exhaust splatter is just water condensation and a little carbon. You probably haven't driven it enough to heat up the exhaust and vaporize the water.
Good luck,
Ron in FL
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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1,475 Posts
Condensation from combustion water when warming up is picking up soot in the exhaust. It is a bit rich, but if you are never getting it fully warmed up, it may be on the cold start enrichment a lot of the time.
 

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9 Posts
I've been driving my new to me 74 Manta around the area lately and took some pictures on Friday. I posted them in an album, (I think), today. The car runs fine and is fun to drive, but I am accumulated a project list that I am sure will last well into the future. I would like to first make it into a pleasant road car with minimal effort and cost because I am old and have too many toys to maintain.

A short list of projects includes: restore the shine to the original paint, find out what is rattling (in the back I think), tighten up air leaks on the door windows, install a radio, check out the bottom of the car to see what I have, eventually tighten up the suspension, remove the vinyl top, reupholster the seats, etc. Any suggestions or advice is welcome. The car already has been upgraded to electronic ignition and a Weber carb, and the auto tranny was replaced with a rebuilt 4 speed.

The story on the car was that it was the favorite car of the original owner and when he died his wife couldn't sell it. So ot sat in the garage for about twenty years (or more) before being sold. It was Ziebarted and appears to be fairly rust free except for some dings and spots on the hood and trunk. Somewhere along the line it was christened Hedda, so there we go.

Been reading this site as time allows. Lots of interesting reading. Hopefully I get to meet some of you people sometime in person. The best part of the car is that my wife likes it too.
 

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Super Moderator
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3,118 Posts
Me and my other half put about 200 miles on my GT yesterday, driving through the northern mountains of North Carolina. Drove for awhile on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Beautiful day! GT ran like a top but I'm beginning to think I'll be needing to replace my "throw out bearing" sooner than later!
 

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1,006 Posts
My son and I worked on our home made dash cover yesterday as our dash was less than attractive we were able to get it covered and looks pretty decent we'll have to decide what we what to do to trim it out so it looks like it grew there but so far so better than expected
 

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Opeler
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769 Posts
My son and I worked on our home made dash cover yesterday as our dash was less than attractive we were able to get it covered and looks pretty decent we'll have to decide what we what to do to trim it out so it looks like it grew there but so far so better than expected
Nice work Terry. Do you have any pictures you can share of your work?

Eric
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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1,475 Posts
Tested new 2" exhaust on the 1900 yesterday. Runs better and is not too loud. Used a Dynomax muffler, and fabbed the pipes myself. Needed to use a steel metal sealer for high temps at one spot over the top of where the reducer takes the 2 downpipes into 1; could not weld over the top in a tight gap there. So far it is holding well; I let it cure for 3-4 days.

Kept messing with the hydraulic lifters; still have 1 that will not bleed the air out well on its own.

Fixed a tailight and then got the radio hooked up. Made a temp antenna from a welding rod LOL
 

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1,006 Posts
Nice work Terry. Do you have any pictures you can share of your work?

Eric
I'll see if time allows today to take a pic and report back. Not that's it's pic worthy LOL but all my money's tied up in my businesses so the funds I wanted to spend on the opel won't be available for a while but such is life no biggie it's not going anywhere. So I've been using left over materials from other projects to tinker and keep our hands a little busy when time allows
 

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Spaceman
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338 Posts
Adjusted the points with the correct 0.016'' feeler gauge between the points. (I have the 1975 type FI distributor), which I have done many times before, but this time I didn't rely on the feel gauge alone, but also used a dwell meter, and surprise surprise 0.016'' gave me a steady reading of 43 degrees, but using a 0.015'' gave me spot and steady 50 degrees dwell.

I must (shamefully) admit that I have always relied on the feeler gauge alone, and never used a dwell meter to actually check if my adjustment was spot on..- let me just say that won't happen again.

Cheers.
 

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572 Posts
Adjusted the points with the correct 0.016'' feeler gauge between the points. (I have the 1975 type FI distributor), which I have done many times before, but this time I didn't rely on the feel gauge alone, but also used a dwell meter, and surprise surprise 0.016'' gave me a steady reading of 43 degrees, but using a 0.015'' gave me spot and steady 50 degrees dwell.

I must (shamefully) admit that I have always relied on the feeler gauge alone, and never used a dwell meter to actually check if my adjustment was spot on..- let me just say that won't happen again.

Cheers.
For a variety of reasons, getting the proper gap can be frustrating, whether using a feeler gauge or a dwell meter (or both). The very best distributors for this were the old GM models that had the little door that you flipped up and used an allen-head wrench to adjust the points while the car was running with the dwell meter attached.
 
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