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Can Opeler
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Break it in easy....500 miles or so.
Should be good to.go. It's used not new. I'll do figure 8s for a couple minutes and call it good.
 
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Opel Rallier since 1977
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2,278 Posts
Be prepared for a lot of understeer.
Yes, that can be a learning situation but also depends a lot on how tight the LSD is set. If not too tight, then it will be a minor to non-issue. Now if you want understeer, and hugely-hard-to-predict understeer at that, then try a spool or welded diff! Done both....and a spool or welded diff will be veeeeery tricky; moving from that to an LSD is a great step up.

BTW, I wanted to ask knorm if he is using any diff addtive to avoid chatter, or just using a gear oil with that already in it?
 

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Can Opeler
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No need to add any additive to most modern mid to expensive gear oils. Most of them say for LSD rear ends now.

I’m using the 2 year old Lucas synthetic from my old rear end currently. I heard no chatter today on my short test with figure 8s and a few spirited turns.

Not concerned about more understeer. The thicker rear sway bar and fully stiff rear shocks still give me PLENTY of rotation. I actually have the ability to put power down to get out of the rotation now.
 
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Opel Rallier since 1977
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2,278 Posts
No need to add any additive to most modern mid to expensive gear oils. Most of them say for LSD rear ends now.

I’m using the 2 year old Lucas synthetic from my old rear end currently. I heard no chatter today on my short test with figure 8s and a few spirited turns.

Not concerned about more understeer. The thicker rear sway bar and fully stiff rear shocks still give me PLENTY of rotation. I actually have the ability to put power down to get out of the rotation now.
There you go..... Just checking to make sure on the additive. I had some rear chatter in the past with non-additive gear oils.... it would tend to show up at low speeds in tight corners without much power, like in parking lots. You would know it if you had it! There is a Ford/Motorcraft additive that works quite well if it does ever chatter.

And spot-on with the rear end mods; if you need it to rotate more at corner entry, just put in some more rear brake bias!
 

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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607 Posts
The last several days have been busy, in my garage, as there is a lot going on with my GT here in Mount Pleasant and some of it has been covered under different threads, however this spur of the moment project, as we all know how one project leads to another, and another and another and the cycle continues to repeat. Well after replacing my old gear shift shaft and knob,I could not help but notice that the console around the shifter boot and around the ashtray was not looking very good - so a trip to Hobby Lobby for some new faux leather, and a trip to Wal Mart for a can of Dap Weldwood contact cement, I was ready to complete my project for I believe the third time over the past 48 years. The price and the quality of the Dap contact cement was by far the best I had purchased. Not sure why but I had not purchased it in a can before always in a bottle. The first thing I noticed about the can was that I could actually shake it to mix the glue up, as per the directions, where as the last bottle I purchased it was not possible to shake - not sure if this was just a fluke but I don't ever remember being able to shake the bottle to mix the glue. The other big difference was the cost. Almost everywhere I have been to purchase the glass bottle of Dap Weldwood contact cement, recently including, Lowes, Home Depot and Amazon, the price has been over 7 dollars which blows me away as it does not seem that long ago that I was paying 95 cents for a 3 OZ bottle and I have purchased 3 bottles in the past 3 years all over 7 bucks - now the 3 OZ can at Wal Mart was somewhere close to 4.50. So the last bottle I purchased was 1/2 full but the consistency of the glue was like liquid rubber and not usable, so off t purchase a new container. Anyway for working on the interior of the GT recovering panels with vinyl I don't think there is anything that works better than Dap's contact cement. See picture below of completed project and just installed this afternoon. Cheers, Carl



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Senior Contributor
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How does the contact cement hold up to the heat on a sunny day?
 

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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607 Posts
How does the contact cement hold up to the heat on a sunny day?
Holds up in heat very well if applied correctly. Place a coat of both surfaces and let it dry for between 15 minutes and 2 hours - when you touch the pieces together it forms a permanent bond, no do overs. Try it you will like it. I have used it for years with good results much better than most other glue. The only places I used the glue was on the back of the items shown, on the bottom side, do the front wait till it dries and stretch the top over to the back of the item and attach under the item shown, no need to clamp it bonds at once. There is no glue on the top surfaces. Between the vinyl and the metal is a thin layer of cotton material which was spray glued to the metal, The only thing I have found better is, wait for it, JB Weld.


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I went to my first ever event with the Manta today :) Just a local Cars and Coffee, but it was really fun. My car was in very good company with a bunch of Ferraris and Lamborghinis, a ton of Porsches, old and new muscle cars, European sports cars, stock cars, modified cars... you name it.
It drew a lot of attention because most people had never heard of an Opel before, but a few people knew exactly what it was and were really happy to see it. One lady with a 6-figure Porsche kept coming back to take pictures and videos of it because she grew up with one and it was one of her all-time favorite cars.
Shockingly, I somehow didn't take any pictures of my car there, but I at least found this one posted online after the show, parked next to a matching black and white Audi R8.
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Your Noble Friend ;-)
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I went to my first ever event with the Manta today :) Just a local Cars and Coffee, but it was really fun. My car was in very good company with a bunch of Ferraris and Lamborghinis, a ton of Porsches, old and new muscle cars, European sports cars, stock cars, modified cars... you name it.
It drew a lot of attention because most people had never heard of an Opel before, but a few people knew exactly what it was and were really happy to see it. One lady with a 6-figure Porsche kept coming back to take pictures and videos of it because she grew up with one and it was one of her all-time favorite cars.
Shockingly, I somehow didn't take any pictures of my car there, but I at least found this one posted online after the show, parked next to a matching black and white Audi R8.
It is always awesome when the low-priced Opels draw the crowd in the middle of overpriced new sheet metal! I know how great you feel, congrats!

Dieter
 
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Yesterday I actually worked on parts for one of my Opels. I got a batch of metal parts back from being zinc plated. Decided to put some of those parts to use, and finish up some projects that were in limbo.

First, I got to assemble the Quaife fast ratio rack-and-pinion guts into the steering housing for my Sportwagon. It was a Quaife rack I built in ‘93 or ‘94, and it had been raced hard, so it needed refurbishing. I polished the rack shaft and pinion gear, replaced the bearings, and some other incidentals (seals, etc).

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Freshly cleaned parts.



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Input pinion, rack boot clamps, dust cap, and locking ring back from zinc plating.



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Freshly assembled with Red Line CV-2 synthetic grease.



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Grease zerks have been fitted, and new input boot and needle bearing seal too.


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I hate the way the locking rings get all chewed up with pliers, so I bought a spanner wrench and modified it to fit the locking ring without damaging it.
 

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The other thing I worked on yesterday was assembling a custom vented hub/rotor assembly for the 1975 Sportwagon. It’s nothing fancy but it’s effective and not too expensive. The other thing I like about it is it fits under most of my 13” rims (but not all of them).

The rotors are 24 mm x 260 mm (about 10.25” OD), so there is not only greater heat dissipation from the vented rotors, but also greater braking torque from the larger rotor OD. I also use a 4-piston Wilwood caliper that provides good clamping and a larger brake pad.

The rotor/hub assembly weighs 3 lbs more than a stock 1975 Opel rotor/hub assembly, but the Wilwood calipers are over 5 lbs lighter than the stock iron calipers so it is more than a wash. So, a slight loss of unsprung mass, with a slight increase in rotating inertia.


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Opel hub, custom spacer/adapter, center rotor, and the fasteners needed to make it all work.


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First step was to bolt the adapter to the hub with new 10mm x 1.25 x 25mm grade-12.9 socket cap screws, I apply a light film of anti seize between the aluminum and iron parts, and thread locker to the bolts, and torqued them to 60 ft lbs.


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Because there is some slop between the rotor bolt holes and the 1/2”-20 bolts that secure the rotor to the hub, I use a pair of countersunk bolts to draw the rotor centered to the bolt holes. No slop, and no radial run-out. Just snug them by hand, then fit two of the real bolts and tighten them to about 30 ft lbs. I then remove the locating bolts, and fit the last two real bolts to the rotor.


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I used anti-seize again between the dissimilar metals, and thread locker on the mounting bolts. These are torqued to 90 ft lbs, being grade 8 fasteners.


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Finished rotor/adapter/hub assembly.


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The finished assembly is quite a bit larger than a 1975 ‘big brake’ setup
 

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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Today my wife and I actually took the GT out for a little road trip. What a pleasure as it was purring like, well a nicely running GT. Still not finished and still not perfect but we enjoyed a drive up to our favorite "hole in the wall" seafood restaurant In McClellanville, SC, the only restaurant in downtown McClellanville, population 568. Same place we go to purchase fresh shrimp right off the boat, about 80 miles round trip up Rt. 17 from Mount Pleasant and another 60 miles would put you in Myrtle Beach. Anyway was in the low 70's and perfect for an outing. Good times and great fried shrimp and flounder.

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Vendor
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Discussion Starter · #937 ·
Awesome pic! Glad your GT got a chance to stretch its legs.

Today my wife and I actually took the GT out for a little road trip. What a pleasure as it was purring like, well a nicely running GT. Still not finished and still not perfect but we enjoyed a drive up to our favorite "hole in the wall" seafood restaurant In McClellanville, SC, the only restaurant in downtown McClellanville, population 568. Same place we go to purchase fresh shrimp right off the boat, about 80 miles round trip up Rt. 17 from Mount Pleasant and another 60 miles would put you in Myrtle Beach. Anyway was in the low 70's and perfect for an outing. Good times and great fried shrimp and flounder.

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I tore out the dash to clean out the mice nests in the heater box, replaced some bulbs, cleaned the grounds, and some other misc items. Discovered alot of Rot/rust in the upper area above heater box. Maybe some day it will all get fixed.

Edit* - Question to the group. How does one get the mouse smell from the heater? ive tried soap & water, a pet urine cleaner, orange cleaner, and febreeze. There is still a lingering smell.
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I put the inner and outer tie rods onto my rack-and-pinion today. The inners were originals, but very tight and in good condition. They got wire wheeled, Scotchbrited, and then got painted with satin black chassis paint.

The outer tie rods are NOS German items I’ve had since the early 1990’s! The dust boots were cracked, so I replaced them with aftermarket urethane boots, and got some new jam nuts. These outer tie rods got scuffed up, cleaned, and painted with the same satin black chassis paint.

The rack-and-pinion boots themselves are replacements from OGTS. I used my newly zinc plated inner boot clamps, but the outer clamps (stainless steel Oetiker clamps) I bought from McMaster-Carr didn’t fit. They fit standard OEM Opel rack boots, but not these aftermarket rack boots....grrrrr. Too small. Oh well.
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Edit* - Question to the group. How does one get the mouse smell from the heater? ive tried soap & water, a pet urine cleaner, orange cleaner, and febreeze. There is still a lingering smell.
At least on the plastic parts, I’ve had good luck by washing everything well (I use Purple Clean and Dawn dish soap plus hot water), then letting it dry.

Then I paint it with Krylon Fusion paint meant for plastics. Can’t smell if it’s covered in paint, lol.
 
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