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Coolant feed fitting has been fabricated.

Since I’m using a 1975 block and thermostat housing, the heater feed hose was changed from earlier 1.9’s. Typically on a 1.9 with carburetor, the heater core gets its feed from the thermostat housing.

On the 1975 Opels, the heater core gets its water source from the rear of the block instead. Opel changed the block casting slightly, and where there is normally a 14 x 1.5 mm pipe plug (to drain the block), there is instead a larger boss and an 18 mm x 1.5 pipe fitting for the heater hose.

I modified a standard Opel coolant hose fitting by welding on a -10AN fitting so I can space the heater hose further away from the block. My reasoning was the proximity of the turbo exhaust manifold, which will get very hot.
I also added a -6AN fitting to the side so I can run the feed for the turbocharger water cooling line.
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EDIT: I then added the 1/8” NPT fitting for the oil sending unit for my AutoMeter oil temperature gauge. I will have an oil cooler with a thermostat since Opels already run high oil temps under duress. A turbo will make the oil work that much harder. A quality gauge will make monitoring the oil temp that much easier
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JEEZ your skills continue to amaze me.
If I had that kind of talent I'd be dangerous
 

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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Filled the transmission with the Gear Oil today that was recommended by Rally Bob. I would have never know that I was using the wrong stuff without his comment, so thanks again for setting me straight Bob. So its filled to the brim with Red Line MT GL-4 90W synthetic gear lube and I have enough left over to do it again. Can I also use this same lube in the rear end??
 

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Filled the transmission with the Gear Oil today that was recommended by Rally Bob. I would have never know that I was using the wrong stuff without his comment, so thanks again for setting me straight Bob. So its filled to the brim with Red Line MT GL-4 90W synthetic gear lube and I have enough left over to do it again. Can I also use this same lube in the rear end??
Carl, hopefully you know this already but since you said you filled it to the brim I thought this worth mentioning. Be sure that the fluid levels are about 1/2” or so below the plug. The GT transmission is tilted, filling it up until it leaks out the plug may cause leaks at the seals, the rear transmission seal in particular I’m told. I’ve used that recepie for the 30+ years I’ve owned my GT since a local mechanic who used to service Opels gave me that advice. Same advice on the rear end differential which has been trouble free for nearly 50 years now (knock on wood).

My apologies for any redundancy as this information has been passed around the forum before and you may already be aware.
 

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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Thanks Cub, any information is always appreciated - just a figure of speech-filled to about 1/2 inch from the top with the car jacked up back and front so pretty level - using an allen wrench to measure it. Regarding the rear end have always filled it to the actual brim and have not had any issues. When I say always I mean all 2 times. Best, Carl
 

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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Went for a drive from Mount Pleasant, SC to Georgetown, SC about 115 miles round trip today left at 10:30. Had a nice lunch and turned around and drove home. While it was partly cloudy it was so unbelievably hot, OMG. Wishing for AC big time. That is the longest trip I have taken in, well, since I started the restoration in 94, currently the odometer is at 3400. That was set back to 0 when the new engine was installed in 1999. The car is idling and running great and even restarted with no problem so I feel confident regarding my pending trip to Charlotte, NC next month, about a 3 and 1/2 hour drive. Was lucky enough to find a shady parking spot on the main drag across from the water front to park the car. Even left the windows down while we went to lunch, really not much of a choice there with that black interior = oven.



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That's great news.
Did Mrs. Will I Finish accompany you on your venture?
 

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I have my first real car show coming up in two weeks in Charlotte, NC and taking my cues form Gordon as I cleaned the engine bay today. Not that it really needed it but had not been done in 20 years or 3500 miles so I figured what the fluff. I purchased this all purpose cleaner + degreaser from Chemical Guys, Super Citrus - works on everything from carpet spots, vinyl and including engines, won't harm anything. It was just too damn hot outside so I turned the window unit on in the garage and started the project. I would spray a section, say one side of the engine use a small brush or a rag and clean it the best I could reach the brush really helped with that and then using a Windex bottle of just water I would rinse the area. Worked really well. As I finished a section I would used compressed air to dry it. I laid down a couple of leaf bags under the area to catch/absorb the fluid and dirty water and bingo got the whole thing done in about three hours without having to cover anything, only used a half a bottle of water to rinse. Was pretty shiny before but now looks almost showroom clean. However there is nothing perfect about a 50 year old car, eh. Tomorrow is power washing the tires and dressing them so they are full cured prior to travel and I still have to do forward of the radiator but that won't take long. Oh and put on new brass clamps replacing the old battery connectors - big improvement visually and they fit well. Getting it done one small project at a time.



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By the way If your daughter decides she doesn't want your gt when your ready to pass it on let me know LAL
 

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Putting the final touches on the GT for that trip to the Charlotte Motor Speedway - really looking forward to meeting 8 other Opel owners and having an opportunity to compare notes and just to look at another GT up close.
More preparation for this show - - - Wish I had purchased a good electric buffer years ago - what a pleasure compared to inflaming the tendentious in my elbows once again.
So today I polished the entire car first using Meguiar's Mirror Glaze 210 Ultra Pro Finishing Polish which has a light cutting rating of 3 out of 12 so considering that I have no experience with an orbital buffer or the liquids that go with them I thought that at low level of cutting was prudent as the most I wanted to do was to remover the old layers of wax and some light scratches. It seemed to work pretty well but did not have much of an effect on those light scratches. But again this was the first time and a learning process - number one consideration was I did not want to mess up the paint. After wiping off the haze from the polishing agent I then put a coat of Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Hi-Tech Yellow Wax #26 - premium yellow carnauba wax with silicones polymers and other waxes - both products were highly rated and new to me. So I am going to let the car sit over night before wiping off the haze which is extremely light. That is something I really like about the buffer. Last time I used a can of hand car wax, Mother's Carnauba, it was extremely difficult to wipe off, I mean really hard, never again. Both products wipe of with no effort. I also dressed the tire's with ArmorAll Extreme Tire Shine which looks a little too shiny at first but settles down in a week or so and it will last a really long time - I highly recommend it. I had run out of the ArmorAll and last time tried Black Magic Tire Wet Gel which I do not recommend. It slings product, which is not good, has an ultra wet look that is unnatural and attracts dirt - I will say that it really last a long time and after I cleaned the tires they looked pretty good, but the ArmorAll is a better product.
So there the car sits, coat of wax to be wiped off, wheels dressed, and I waxed the wheels using regular carnauba paste wax. I did not clear coat the wheels as it really cut down on the luster and I read that the kind of polishing I did will last a really long time and I am thinking that if I wax them regularly then the aluminum should not degrade. Guess I will have to see how that goes but again I tried the clear coat and it completely changed the look to more of a satin as compared to chrome. In the event I do have to polish them again it will by comparison be a simple job as the first time required a lot of sanding to get down to that smooth finish that begins to approach the look of chrome. The next polishing event will be a breeze by comparison.
Tomorrow one picture from the same angle, just like the one below, to see how she looks with that new wax haze buffed off..............

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By the way, I posted your before and after pics on my Facebook group. Betzjen suggested you do a reenactment of that pic of you wearing the short shorts and bare feet.

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Sounds good Gordon I accept the challenge - styles have changed a bit so no gym shorts - anyway I will in fact make it a point to do that, the before and after, even barefoot, - expect gray hair and and a much older me but the car will look pretty much the same. However with that said, The car in the picture was my first attempt at a little restoration, just a paint job and new wheels, which turned out to be a bad paint job with little to no regard to the rust that was already there - I had no money at that time and little experience and no help from the internet, that paint job was, pretty sure, 1979. The picture was taken by my then girl friend in July of 1979, Nags Head, NC just before we got married the following Oct. Or it could have been 1980.... So the rust came later as you will see in the pictures below, I spend untold hours on body work - if I had it to do over again I would have let the professionals handle it but I wanted to do everything myself and almost achieved that goal with the exception of the paint, just dashes and the seats were done by a professional and the engine was a rebuilt from OGTS going from a 1.9 to a 2.0. The middle part of the seats are original and the back. Lots of bondo and fiber glass. Oh, what fun.......


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Just a parts update…I didn’t really get anything else done.

Got in my stainless steel 1/4” flange which I’m using as a turbo spacer. It should work perfectly.

I also got in some of that gold-film heat barrier sheeting and tape. Self adhesive backed, so you just cut it and stick it. Can take about 750 degrees of direct heat and 2000 degrees radiant heat. Supposedly reflects 80% of the heat it is subjected to. I will be sticking it to the underside of the intake manifold and to the fuel rail. I will also be fabricating a heat shield from embossed aluminum sheet that fits between the intake and exhaust manifold. It will also cover the turbo exhaust housing. Hopefully I can minimize heat transfer.
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I guess you could call this fabrication work, but to me it’s really not. Anyway, I cut some 1-1/2”lengths of 5/8” steel and aluminum tubing, then beaded one end of each. One of the steel tubes will get welded to the side cam cover (as depicted), and two other tubes will be welded to the center ‘tower’ on the OEM steel valve cover. All three will have 5/8” (-10AN) hoses attached and feeding a remote crankcase oil breather tank I have yet to build. That will have an internal baffle and a filter element on top, and it will have a lower drain which returns to the oil pan via the unused front dipstick hole in the block. I want to control blow-by and oil vapor without pushing an oily mess into the atmosphere or having to worry about running the engine low on oil.
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That is one clean looking engine, WOW - wish I knew the secrets of no oil leaks - purchase a rebuilt engine, that now has 3500 miles but still had leaks, from day one, not major but just enough to get that annoying film of oil that creates light sludge on the surface of way to much of the engine bay, underside, etc. Maybe some day......
 

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So still getting ready for the Car Show at Charlotte Motor Speed way which begins for me on Friday September 10th. Roy Bell tells me there will be a total of 8 Opel all displayed together which is pretty exciting as I have not seen another GT for a long long time, except that one two blocks away from my house that is just sitting under a tarp rusting away- very sad. So I am all Polished and Waxed, tires shined, the new hopefully heat reducing foam installed today - even waxed the glass, wow, what a difference. I have been so busy with projects, over the past couple of years, that I had not really detailed the car for a long time - so going the extra mile to make sure everything is in extra good shape. The detailing was fun, always better than a project, don't touch, no finger prints allowed.... Over the past week have detailed almost everything, inside and out, again way above what I have done for a long time so looking good and ready to park next to the group. And looking forward to meeting all of the other owners and to compare notes, etc. I know I will come home with a lot of good information and good experiences as well. Looking forward to learning from those that have done this, car show, over the years many time - this is my first time - that's right a car show virgin. ;)

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Even got that belly pan cleaned - removed the grill, etc.
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All will be well if that hurricane does not come to bear.............................
 

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That is one clean looking engine, WOW - wish I knew the secrets of no oil leaks - purchase a rebuilt engine, that now has 3500 miles but still had leaks, from day one, not major but just enough to get that annoying film of oil that creates light sludge on the surface of way to much of the engine bay, underside, etc. Maybe some day......
That’s just a bare block and head, not an assembled engine. They are freshly cleaned and steel shotpeened, not painted.
 
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