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A few more pics from yesterday.
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Just now I got to try out a new toy, a Bosch video inspection scope I picked up last week.

I was curious as to whether or not this vehicle had internal modifications. I knew it had lowering springs and Bilstein shocks on it, that part was plain to see. I also knew it had the remnants of a ‘More’ Opel decal on a side window. More Opel was a parts supplier and modifier of Opels in the 1970’s and ‘80’s. I saved the pieces of the More Opel decal (they were peeling off and all dried out/cracking) since I will probably have the decal replicated.

Anyway, being a 1975 Opel it should have had Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection, but that is long gone. It still has the 1975 ‘Sprint’ exhaust manifold, and a nicely made 2” diameter custom exhaust.

It still has a 1975 block too, since the coolant feed for the heater core is on the side of the block above the oil pressure sending unit. The 1975 thermostat remains as well. Not sure about the year of the head, however it is a 12-bolt head.

But I wondered about the internals…

The video scope proved that it does in fact have flat top pistons in it. I’m guessing they may even be 265 Chevy pistons as I can just make out 4 valve reliefs on the piston top. So that would likely make it a 2.0 liter displacement. The hone pattern of the two bores I inspected look VERY good…almost new looking.

I’ll have to delve in further to see if the head is modified or if there’s an aftermarket cam in it. But all this makes me kind of want to try to start it up as it sits. I think fresh plugs/wires/cap/rotor and a carb rebuild would be enough to fire it up. Not today, but at some point perhaps!


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Oh, just an FYI but the video inspection tool was on sale at Northern Tool for just $35.99!

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pretty awesome deal you have going with your newest toy the "Rallywagon"
Between you and Kyler I don't know who's luckier to find these things
 
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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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I found this one. Two '75 Sportswagons, actually. I was going to restore the yellow one. But, I started having problems with my wrist and eyesight and didn't think I was up for another Opel restore, so I sold the yellow one and traded the white one to Bob. He has a long history with Sportswagons, so he was the right man to get it.

I got the wrist partially repaired and the eyes fixed and now I'm doing my Banana car.

:)
 

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Interior carpet removed. More vacuuming. And I started to remove the sound deadener. No significant rust underneath the deadener, though there was some moisture.
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Wagons are just big empty tin cans! So I will be adding a discreet rollcage with bolt-in diagonals. The diagonals make it legal for various local Motorsports events.
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These tubing inserts allow the braces to be removed, but they are pricey! I need ten of them, which will actually end up costing more than all the rollcage tubing. Oh well.
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Just a tiny update.

To remove the sound deadening from the floor of the Sportwagon, I used a tool I custom made about 20 years ago. It was actually so worn out from sharpening that I cut off the old ‘blade’ and welded on a new one. I think it had been shortened about 1/2” from years of grinding and re-grinding!

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Anyway, this tool gives you a lot more support to apply force than a tiny gasket scraper. It also saves your knuckles quite a bit.

This section of the floor took about 5 minutes to scrape up.
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On other fronts, I can’t believe I missed this before! I guess I really wasn’t looking too hard, but it turns out the carburetor is NOT a Weber 32/36 double pumper. It is in fact a manual choke, 38 DGMS double pumper. I’ve never seen one!

Removing the carburetor exposed something interesting too. The throttle plates have large idle-air bypass holes drilled in them. That means somebody knew enough to do this to correct for a big camshaft. Which means this engine probably has a pretty big camshaft. Bigger than your typical off the shelf street cams anyway. The plot thickens…
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Bob, as you start to work on Opels you will learn more and get better at fixing them........😅
 

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Disassembled the throttle linkage and hood release yesterday.
It was a real pain getting the linkage separated from the carb almost as if it was put together before carb was mounted.
Almost impossible to remove.
Once I got it apart I couldn't get the ball nut to screw back on the carb.
I then realized it appeared to have been cut off by the original installer P.O. as they were trying to make it fit.
I actually think they had hack saw Jim Duggins cut LOL HHHOOOO
My only choice was to carefully file the sucker down as straight as I could to get the ball nut to screw back on (FUN)
As big of a pain as this was to remove I can't wait to put it back together 💩
Has anyone successfully converted the original linkage junk to cable for a stock set up with the weber 32/36?
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Once I got it all apart ( and the crazy little clips)(n)
I was able to sand blast it all and get it painted.
I will finish the removal of the gas pedal and other parts today to get cleaned blasted and painted after breakfast
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Has anyone successfully converted the original linkage junk to cable for a stock set up with the weber 32/36?
If you have a later-model intake manifold with the raised threaded pads (as shared by the Manta/Ascona), I’ve seen a few folks use the Manta cable linkage assembly on a GT before.
 
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Early GT-only intake compared to the later castings that were useable on all models. Note the raised pads with threaded holes.
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Manta/Ascona throttle cable bracket.
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Early GT-only intake compared to the later castings that were useable on all models. Note the raised pads with threaded holes. View attachment 439007


Mantra/Ascona throttle cable bracket. View attachment 439009
View attachment 439008
AH yes I do have the (later) with the raised pads and was wondering why 1 hole had a big flat head screw and the other one has a alan screw head?
I think this is a much better option for the throttle. I mean even though mine has worked (fine ) all these yrs BUT now that I've taken it all apart and know how it is held together, it's a little better to understand the concern of all the mechanical joints and those tiny (circle pins ) for lack of the proper term that hold the whole thing together.

So on that particular one you showed in the last pick is the return spring now in a different location or do you beef up the spring on the carb?
 

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So on that particular one you showed in the last pick is the return spring now in a different location or do you beef up the spring on the carb?
The return spring is missing from this particular bracket, but yes, it normally it is there on the left side.
 
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Has anyone successfully converted the original linkage junk to cable for a stock set up with the weber 32/36?
Choosing the cable and how you will attach it to the gas pedal is the other half of the equation. Lokar makes universal cables with about 5 different ends. Buried somewhere in this lengthy thread are pictures of them:


Our gas pedal lift up when you step on the gas. You can easily repurpose the auto tranny kick down cable bracket location on the driver's side motor mount tower to anchor the cable housing and the cable will run straight up to the gas pedal. Too long a discussion to waste writing in this unsearchable thread, you'll have to figure some stuff out yourself. Here's some pics:

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