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Disassembled the throttle linkage and hood release yesterday.
It was a real pain getting the linkage separated from the carb almost as if it was put together before carb was mounted.
Almost impossible to remove.
Once I got it apart I couldn't get the ball nut to screw back on the carb.
I then realized it appeared to have been cut off by the original installer P.O. as they were trying to make it fit.
I actually think they had hack saw Jim Duggins cut LOL HHHOOOO
My only choice was to carefully file the sucker down as straight as I could to get the ball nut to screw back on (FUN)
As big of a pain as this was to remove I can't wait to put it back together 💩
Has anyone successfully converted the original linkage junk to cable for a stock set up with the weber 32/36?
View attachment 438998 View attachment 438999 View attachment 439000
Terry, have you considered either moving the grommet that the linkage goes into towards the left, looking at the bracket, to have the linkage in line with the carb and adjust the linkage at the gas pedal as necessary for the proper throw?( or fabricate a new bracket)
I used the Holley Weber carb back in the 70's when a new one was about $100, they were on the 2.3L Fords and I actually made my own bracket to reverse the throw of the linkage going to the carb.
 

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Terry, have you considered either moving the grommet that the linkage goes into towards the left, looking at the bracket, to have the linkage in line with the carb and adjust the linkage at the gas pedal as necessary for the proper throw?( or fabricate a new bracket)
I used the Holley Weber carb back in the 70's when a new one was about $100, they were on the 2.3L Fords and I actually made my own bracket to reverse the throw of the linkage going to the carb.
I do need to look closely at that and as Soybean mentioned the grommets.
I do remember buying stuff for this early on when I first bought the car and is packed in my opel stuff in the shed.
One thing I do remember is not having this particular part that I thought was there when I ordered the grommets.
It wasn't until after I received the parts and really started looking that I realized this wasn't anywhere to be found.
I'm thinking that when the weber was installed this was removed/not needed?
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Can Opeler
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I do need to look closely at that and as Soybean mentioned the grommets.
I do remember buying stuff for this early on when I first bought the car and is packed in my opel stuff in the shed.
One thing I do remember is not having this particular part that I thought was there when I ordered the grommets.
It wasn't until after I received the parts and really started looking that I realized this wasn't anywhere to be found.
I'm thinking that when the weber was installed this was removed/not needed?
View attachment 439033
That is mounted to the firewall behind the carb. It’s definitely there.

You may need to adjust the linkage at the adjusting screw behind the driver side of the engine if you still have alignment issues after checking bushings.
 

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Holy crap It is there, Can't embarrass my self showing a pic of it but your right it is there.
Good Grief Terry! Open your eyes and one shall see! LOL
Too many thing at once, I'm all over the place with three different vehicles.
 

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Opel GT throttle linkage bracket with return spring.
Edit Note: Never installed clip for carburetor linkage ball stud. View attachment 439052 View attachment 439053 View attachment 439054
Thank you for this Lindsay,
You also unintentionally answered my next question
Which was how many washers do you all have between that passenger firewall mount and the linkage to carb.
This would explain why mine was so darn hard to get apart (there were 3 large washers ) on mine that made it extremely difficult to get it off the carb
 

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Used OPGTS red bushing with OEM Opel linkage bracket that I painted black.
No washers or spacers (shims) installed between my bracket and firewall.

Should install spring clip on ball stud someday if I can find it.
And I believe that is the one spring/lock that is different from the other 3
Now that I have it out It makes sense why my rod was worn down on the bottom of it.
I guess they had to do what they had to do LOL
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Yesterday I managed a little time on my Sportwagon.

I cut out part of the welded-in panel that spans between the rear shock towers. This is an important structural part (especially on the wagons) and it’s actually pretty common to find cracks where this panel intersects the shock towers. Lots of flexing going on due to the lack of a rear firewall (unlike a Manta or Ascona which otherwise shares the same chassis).

So, why am I cutting out this critical structural part? Well, there was a family of mice living in the car when I got it. They filled the inside with upholstery stuffing /nut shells /grass and mouse poop. So it needed to be properly cleaned out and painted. I figured I would also add a hinged panel so there was some semblance of storage here, although the space is minimal due to the rear axle hump.

As far as the chassis flex issue, the cage will help reinforce the chassis and I’ll have a bolt-in crossbar at the shock towers for spirited driving use.

First step was to cut out the panel that will be hinged. I bought some extra-thin .045” thick cutoff wheels for this job
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I also did a test fit on the new tires in the spare tire well. It fits perfectly.
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Now, to make your head spin even more, you COULD buy the deluxe stainless steel linkage package. It comes with a new bracket for the firewall that has a swivel joint with bearings in it.


I agree with Gordon that the The linkage from the gas pedal to the carb be a great place/part to add some POP to the over all under hood experience - that collection of parts can also be polished, as compared to chromed,to a shine very close to chrome finish, and then coated with a sealer to keep it stay that way. I did mine in the late 90's. I am not in a rush to finsh things now so I think I will take another run at it for a more perfect finish. I also want to take off the round piece/short tube piece on the fire wall that the clutch cable comes through and polish and seal it as well. I missed this the first go around and feel this will add a little to the over all under hood experience - where does it all stop - I don't know as if it did I would have to change my name - Will I Finish cheers...............................CH
 

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I figured I’d finish scraping sound-deadener from my Sportwagon floors today. There are 8 distinct pieces on the inside floors normally. I got 7 done. The last one I did, under the right hand side of the rear seat, took longer to scrape off than the other 6 combined!

I've never encountered anything like it! The sound deadener material looked exactly the same as the others piece. I used the same tool to scrape it, and the same heat gun setting. It still left a ton of residue when all was said and done. Weird. I have a lot of scrubbing to do with solvent and Scotchbrite.
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I also decided I’m going to put my new battery under the back seat, very similar to what the previous owner did. Except I’ll put mine in a dedicated tray and with a proper hold-down bracket. This car had burn marks under the metal seat back where the battery terminals had touched it before and arc’d to the metal. No battery hold down and no insulation. Jeez.

I decided on using an AGM deep cycle battery with 740 CCA, weighing 33 lbs. A bit overkill perhaps, but I’m going to add a small winch to my front bumper, 6 auxiliary lights up front, and an AC power inverter.

I built a cardboard replica of the battery to check for clearances. Plenty of room.
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Having the day off I intended on removing the differential cover on the spare 73’ rear end to start moving ahead with the swap.
I just had to tend to the loose belt in the front of the engine first when I noticed the drips of anti freeze accumulating under the front of the engine.
Fortunately I had a very well packaged OGTS Signature water pump on the shelf. I was really impressed with the way it was packaged with protection around the impeller unlike those ones that are bouncing around in the box from any of your typical aftermarket auto parts stores.

The replacement went off without a hitch. I removed the stock fan & shroud and was able to get the replacement easily done without removing the radiator.
I’m going to try things without re installing them. I’ve got a 2,000 cfm pusher that can either be used as a pusher or puller but it needs 2.5” of clearance, I had a little bit over 2”, perhaps 2 1/4” or so of clearance, not quite enough. I’m going to give it a run this weekend, worth a try at least. I’ll see how it handles idling in the garage first before conservatively test driving it around the neighborhood. Always an adventure to be had, and I’d really like to eliminate the stock fan for good one way or another.
 

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Quiet day at the New England Opel kingdom. More house work this morning. Ho-hum.

I took the top cover off the 38 DGS double pumper carburetor. Yea, yea, I know what you’re thinking. I’m going to install either the turbo 1.9 with DCOE Weber or the turbo 1.9 with fuel injection. However this carburetor is just too cool to NOT play around with it.

Over the years I’ve purged myself of nearly all my Weber down drafts. Typically I’ve given away or sold (for cheap) all my 32/36 Webers. The last one I owned I had modified heavily for one of my cars with a matching welded/ported intake. Then I gave it away to my friend Jim for his Ascona. This leaves me with a box of 38 DGAS’s that all need rebuilding. But this is my only 38 DGS (manual choke) double pumper. It’s too cool to not do something with it.

Sooo, I’m thinking about boring out the venturies to perhaps 29-30 mm or so. Not extreme, but not stock. Then do all my other internal performance mods to it. Ball bearing throttle shafts, knife edged auxiliary venturies, and my fabricated smooth-entry carburetor hood I built years ago but never got to utilize. Then I’ll prep an intake and use this setup on a 2.2 liter longblock I have laying around which I can use to shake down my new-to-me Sportwagon before I decide to go turbo.

A known prepped carb/intake setup would also be great for my engine test stand for breaking in new engines.

The first thing about this carburetor that needs modifying is the fuel inlet. I hate when they are facing the valve cover. So I need to remove the stock inlet and return fittings, then tap the holes for pipe plugs. Next, the undrilled outer fuel inlet needs to be drilled out and tapped for a new inlet fitting. I will be using an AN adapter here. All the holes were threaded for 1/8” NPT fittings. While I had the tap out, the fuel bowl breather vent (which is for emissions and won’t be used) also got tapped for a pipe plug.
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And for those that missed it 6 years ago, this is the cold air radiused-entry carburetor hood I built. Not only cold air, but also smooths the air entry for a nice bump in overall airflow.

I originally built this for a GT, but guess what? It didn’t fit under the hood. But there’s plenty of room under the hood of an Ascona.

You’ll notice I don’t give a crap about the exterior appearance. It’s all about the internal airflow.
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