[Young Gt Lover]

I have those wheels. I painted the lug areas black because Rally Bob is always trying to copy me...... View attachment 453303

Wow your Gt looks sick! That thing is sweet! How did you do the fender flares?

Thanks Sam

 

[Will I. Finish]

Sat down this afternoon with my machinist and Gil on conference call to get all the parts required to rebuild my engine and take it out to 2.0 and some extras. Tear down showed that the engine was bone stock, no major wear to be seen except for oil pump spring had some wear. Excited about moving forward with this car rebuild! When all finished I'm going to own one very cherry GT!

Hey Rick, not uncommon for me to read about something I am unsure about. Not that I have looked at the oil pump more than a couple of times but I am trying to recall a spring. I recall taking the face plate of the oil pump off maybe two times and two large gears coming out but I do not recall a spring. So wondering if I am missing a part. Oil pressure is close to 4 cruising at 60. Can you give me more information. Thanks, Carl

 

[Michael A. Smith]

Hey Rick, not uncommon for me to read about something I am unsure about. Not that I have looked at the oil pump more than a couple of times but I am trying to recall a spring. I recall taking the face plate of the oil pump off maybe two times and two large gears coming out but I do not recall a spring. So wondering if I am missing a part. Oil pressure is close to 4 cruising at 60. Can you give me more information. Thanks, Carl

The pressure relief valve inside the pump has a spring in it, intended to keep the valve closed unless pressure exceeds the specified level. When this spring weakens, the valve opens at a lower pressure. I seem to recall Gil advising me to add a shim under the spring. The FSM describes the valve on page 6A-27 of the '73 manual.

Possibly this thread will add some light. The information is that the weakened spring has no effect on oil pressure at idle.

Low/No Oil Pressure

Took the GT to do the family visits on Easter Sunday. First the oil pressure would drop coming up to a light at idle, once the idiot light came on. Later in the day the problem got worse, the light flickered a few times. Driving home at night was a problem. Oil pressure was diving at anything...

www.opelgt.com

 

[RallyBob]

Hey Rick, not uncommon for me to read about something I am unsure about. Not that I have looked at the oil pump more than a couple of times but I am trying to recall a spring. I recall taking the face plate of the oil pump off maybe two times and two large gears coming out but I do not recall a spring. So wondering if I am missing a part. Oil pressure is close to 4 cruising at 60. Can you give me more information. Thanks, Carl

Early CIH engines have a flat oil pump cover, with the oil pressure relief valve located in the side of the timing cover (below the timing chain tensioner). A 1970 engine would have this style.

Later CIH engines have an oil pump cover with integral oil pressure relief valve, and that is where the spring is located which was mentioned previously.

 

[Michael A. Smith]

Early CIH engines have a flat oil pump cover, with the oil pressure relief valve located in the side of the timing cover (below the timing chain tensioner). A 1970 engine would have this style.

Later CIH engines have an oil pump cover with integral oil pressure relief valve, and that is where the spring is located which was mentioned previously.

What is interesting is that the newer engines (I am assuming 1971 and up) seem to have both relief valves, one of which the factory rendered inoperative. Quoting from page 6A-5 of the 1973 FSM (my emphasis added):

"The oil pump pressure relief valve is located in the engine oil pump cover. See Figure 6A-3. The pressure relief valve serves to feed surplus oil back into the suction passage should the required oil pressure be exceeded. The old oil pressure relief valve which is located above the oil filter is inoperative. A heavier spring has been installed to keep the valve seated at all times."

 

[terrylewisac]

HEY

 

[Will I. Finish]

Early CIH engines have a flat oil pump cover, with the oil pressure relief valve located in the side of the timing cover (below the timing chain tensioner). A 1970 engine would have this style.

Later CIH engines have an oil pump cover with integral oil pressure relief valve, and that is where the spring is located which was mentioned previously.

Thanks Bob. Just as a note, my engine is a rebuild from OGTS purchased in 1998/9 and frankly not sure what year it is. I am thinking perhaps a 1975 which is just an uneducated guess, perhaps something that Gil mentioned at the time, and is a 2.0. I know that Gil said that everything would bolt up just like the original 1.9. This engine has GM stamped on the driver's side. The only thing that turned not to be a direct bolt on was the fan which hit the crank as it had a longer bolt head, which had to be replaced with the shorter head unit and the oil pump cover did not require a gasket but a thin layer of sealer instead.

 

[Rick O.]

The one screw from hell! Pulling the dash to replace the heater core and it looks like the screw was removed and placed back in while the windshield was out and the screw is in the WRONG angle! Just makes the day I get to drive my car sweeter.

 

[Michael A. Smith]

Those damn screws are tough enough to get to when they are installed correctly! I'm 300+ miles away from my cars and toolbox at the moment, but I recall using something with a flexible shaft when I pulled my dash. One small ray of hope for you is that, if it is installed incorrectly, perhaps it is not actually attaching to anything any better than a small tug on the dash might separate it.

Reviewing my garage notes from my restoration, I see I made reference to advice on this forum to replace those screws with longer ones with torx heads. I did not do this and my notes suggest I might have saved some time had I done so when I finally re-installed the dash.

 

[Rick O.]

As much as I hated, the windshield needed to come out in order to get that one screw out! Some people have no business working on these GTs, if they're not going to do it correctly. Everything else was a breeze

 

[midnightcatian]

Realized I've got to sell it.

 

[Rick O.]

Heater box is out and what a b____th! Ordered new duct as the original duct, inside looked good, outside was dry rotted. Also found where PO or last shop that blasted it, left build up medium (didn't clean up) in the dash to catch moisture and started to rust. So good thing that was caught and properly dealt with. Crank is getting ground and cam off to Isky. Progress! Hoping to have it all back together by 1st of April.

 

[Rick O.]

Cam made it to Isky!

 

[Rick O.]

Well update, new heater core is in and blower lubed. Headlights rewired, oh and cleaned out about another 20 pounds of soda from inside the car, and headlight buckets where whoever blasted the car did a piss poor job of cleaning. Everywhere soda was scraped and removed, rust was under, so glad that was caught. Calling Isky about my cam, they've had it for three weeks now. Engine block gets powdercoated tomorrow.

 

[Young Gt Lover]

Well update, new heater core is in and blower lubed. Headlights rewired, oh and cleaned out about another 20 pounds of soda from inside the car, and headlight buckets where whoever blasted the car did a piss poor job of cleaning. Everywhere soda was scraped and removed, rust was under, so glad that was caught. Calling Isky about my cam, they've had it for three weeks now. Engine block gets powdercoated tomorrow.

We will need pics of when the engine gets painted.

 

[Rick O.]

We will need pics of when the engine gets painted.

I will be looking at different colors tomorrow, when powder coating cast iron, colors shift. I'm hoping to have the block look like regular aluminum and the head billet.

 

[Young Gt Lover]

I will be looking at different colors tomorrow, when powder coating cast iron, colors shift. I'm hoping to have the block look like regular aluminum and the head billet.

Awesome!

 

[Rick O.]

All right, powdercoat colors are picked. The block will be done in Standard aluminum (dull) and head will be done in chrome aluminum (billet). There is enough change to notice the two differences and my engine will look like it were made of aluminum. Our secret, lol. On another note, Gil wasn't kidding about Isky not getting in a hurry for no one. They've had my cam for a month now! Hopefully it's finished or close, not needing it yet and glad it was shipped when it was.

 

[Lindsay]

< snip > Crank is getting ground and cam off to Isky. Progress! Hoping to have it all back together by 1st of April.

Cam made it to Isky!

Happy to hear that Ed Iskenderian Racing Cams will regrind Opel camshafts.
Is your cam hydraulic or solid lifters? If hydraulic, what lifters are you using?

 

[Rick O.]

Happy to hear that Ed Iskenderian Racing Cams will regrind Opel camshafts.
Is your cam hydraulic or solid lifters? If hydraulic, what lifters are you using?

Hydraulic cam and lifters are matched. But, understand Isky is slower than slow and they will not return phone calls, even when I was told they would. At least they do Opel cams and have had mine for over a month.