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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is "dry sump"?

The reason I ask is that I've been toying with the idea of an SR20DET swap. Yes, I know it's been mentioned in multiple threads and in those threads, there was mention that this motor is too tall for the GT's engine bay.

Now, my understanding of dry sump is that the oil pan is removed and the function of the oil pan is now handled by an additional oil storage tank mounted elsewhere on the car. And that a system of pumps and hoses needs to be devised to circulate the oil. And that such a system usually incorporates an oil cooler.

With the removal of the oil pan, the engine can now be lowered that much more. Giving clearance to the hood, and better yet a lower center of gravity. What other benefits, if any, does dry sumping give you?

Did I miss anything? And will dry sumping the SR20DET give enough clearance?

Thanks

PS. There is currently an SR20DET motor and tranny on eBay for $1399! (no harnesses or ecu)
 

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Manny, you'll still need an oil pan for a dry sump, and hoses to scavenge oil. 'Drysump' is a misleading term, as there's still an oil pan required, and oil running through it. An SR20 has a shallow oil pan as it is, the new dry sump pan will still need to clear the main stud girdle and main caps of an SR20. You may reduce the height by about 1.5", not much more.

If you want, I can run out into my barn and measure an oilpan from an SR20 if you want accurate numbers.

BTW, if you are paying someone to dry-sump the engine, expect to pay about $3000 to have it done, about $1600 if you fabricate everything yourself.

The dry sump pump is at the lower right of this SR20.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks again Bob,

No need to run out to the barn. I'm just day-dreaming at this point. I'm just enamored with the potential of that engine.
 

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It's actually not as tall as I thought.

Opel engine (2.4): 22.75" tall +/-

SR20DE engine: 24" tall +/-

But, worth noting is that the SR20 is widest and tallest at the very front of the valve cover, while the CIH-GT valve cover angles down appreciably at the front. Maybe if the engine were lowered in the chassis, it would work. Hmmmm.....
Although you still have to deal with that pesky manifolding and the greater width.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks again Bob,

You never cease to amaze me with your knowledge. :)

Take care and have fun,

Manny
 

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They also have dry sump setups that utilize the existing oil pump location and gearing instead of a cog driven system - They use a 90 degree gear coming out of the block. These systems are modular so you can make them as big or as small as you need. As noted by Bob, figure $3,000++ for an installed setup.

The dry sump basically takes the returning oil from the oil pan and pumps it into a holding tank. For this reason there is very little oil left in the pan. The oil is then drawn from the bottom of the holding tank and pushed through the existing oil passages. Pulling it from the bottom eliminates the oil foam. Some systems incorporate an oil cooler between the pump and the holding tank. 8-10 quarts of oil is typically used.

These setups are usually used on big block (440 and Hemi) engines where the frothing of the oil makes the car slower (and dangerous).
 
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