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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new to the GT, But I have always wanted one...I'm starting to look around here (Las Vegas) and I would like to know what things I should look out for when examining a GT???
I'm not looking for a concours car but would like to build a street "hot rod"...The posts I've seen here have encouraged me to pursue a GT instead of a more "mainstream" car...
 

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Code Goober
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Notes from an amatuer

Rust bad, you don't want it (being in LV, this might not be a problem). Just about anything that you find broken can be fixed, but with rust you reach a point of diminishing returns pretty quickly.
Compression in the cylinders shouldn't vary by more then about 15% (more would indicate it is due for rings). Wiring, I've had a couple of experiances with wiring that was just disintigrating, causes all kinds of headaches (not to mention fire hazards if you happen to have any kind of fuel problems). Crap in the fuel tank. Brake rotors, drums, booster, and lines (30 year old car remember). Wheel studs (had a wheel part company from car at 15 mph, not fun). Glass (no brainer). Exhaust manifold, having six working holes for the head-pipe is nice (most have broken bolts in them).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the input...I'll keep those things in mind...With the way people move in and out of Vegas, you can never be sure where a car came from...
 

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I agree, rust is BAD

I just purchased my 73 GT w/ A/C. Ad stated there was only one area rusted in the floor boards. He was correct, except once I started removing bondo, I found some pretty hellacious cancer. I purchased the car because I love the GT, and being in AZ, wanted the A/C. Guy I bought it from is a really nice guy, very helpfull and gave me loads of extra stuff, but the body is pretty bad (behind each wheel / tire at the bottom of the fenders. I think he didn't know how bad it was, I certainly didn't). Being unibody, the cost is extensive (I am finding) to repair because the panels must be cut and welded / smoothed back into place.

Anyone had any luck with the fiberglass rear panel and / or belly panel from OGTS? Both areas on my car are in need of replacement.

Thanks
Richard Woodman
73 GT w/ A/C - currently on oncology ward
 

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yes, rust is definitely bad, but also go to check the car out with somebody else and check the wiring is not only operational, but see how its doing(corrosion, insulation, and safety). my neigbour redid the wiring in my 71 opel before he sold it to me and he said it was a killer job. good thing he knows how to do these things cuz i dont..well not yet anyways.
 

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Welcome to the AZ rust club

I also recently purchased a supossedly rust free "AZ car"....only to find out that there was a significant layer of bondo on the car. Same rust areas as yours. I'm almost convinced that a truly rust free GT (AZ or otherwise) is a myth. Sorry to get on my high horse, but now I have 2 rusted GT's! I suppose you have to decide, as I do, based on how much money you've invested at this point, is it worth the added expense and effort to do all that patch work. Can you do it yourself? If not, it will cost you a fair amount to get the work done unless you've got a good friend in the business. You'll also need to make sure that no structural members are rusted. Once that happens, it becomes more than just a patch job.

Now I've never welded a piece of metal in my life, but from what I have heard from this and other groups is that the metal on the GT is pretty thin...but it is still weldable. It's not necessarily the welding that is the issue, it may be forming the pieces to fit. If you intend to do it, you'll need some sort of small press brake and quite a few other pieces of equipment. Anyway, I guess I'll stop babbling now. Obviously I'm pretty dissapointed in my own situation, but maybe some of my rambling can help you with your own GT.

Best of luck, Jason
 

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Here's another way of looking at it, if you just can't help but love the Cars as I do then rust doesn't matter. There is not a single skin that will not be replaced on my car except the roof cab. Basically these cars were supposed to be a sporty ,somewhat cheaper version of the vette to American and Canadian markets. I respect these cars more than I do the vette, I also believe they provide more fun in the driving experience than any other vehicle I have ever driven. Thus is it known though that those people that bought one usually drove the s#!* out of them. And the amount of salt used on roads back in the day was outstanding , and we all know the GT was never one to have any resistance to keeping mud and salt , or other debris from getting stuck in panel joints or lips. One way to deal with car cancer is to take a part out and replace it with fiberglass. I know alot of people do it and it looks fine . The way I prefer is to replace it with metal. You could make your own parts but be prepared to spend some money on not only the sheet metal but also the tools to make the panels. I am still in the process of making lower anvils for my english wheel. I would like to add here that by now i could have ordered brand new skins from Susselbeek, which is also an option (yes it is going to cost a bit but who else offers such things) another option is to contact Todd with Opels unlimited and get him to send you the skins you want. ( he cuts them off cars he has aquired for such purposes) if it is juat a small area, I would just take it to a good reputable body repair shop.Hope this Helps

RITTER
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I thank you all for your input....
I guess my two biggest areas of concern should be rust and wiring.....
Everything else I should be able to R/R with few problems...
 

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On the wiring issue

While you are looking, remember that the light not working doesn't necessarilly mean the wiring is bad. I carry a battery terminal brush in my tool box specificly for using on Opel light sockets. Run the brush through, add a little petrolium jelly to the bulb and reinstall and the lights usually work fine. The aluminum tends to corrode a lot, and the petrolium jelly almost completely stops it.

All GT's, however, need the headlight wires replaced. All of them.
 

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really? nice trick. guess ill pick more of these things up after i have the car longer. guess i should have figured that it isnt always necessarily the wiring. sorry if i mislead anyone
 

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Opeler
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Re: I agree, rust is BAD

cougar6 said:
I just purchased my 73 GT w/ A/C. Ad stated there was only one area rusted in the floor boards. He was correct, except once I started removing bondo, I found some pretty hellacious cancer. I purchased the car because I love the GT, and being in AZ, wanted the A/C. Guy I bought it from is a really nice guy, very helpfull and gave me loads of extra stuff, but the body is pretty bad (behind each wheel / tire at the bottom of the fenders. I think he didn't know how bad it was, I certainly didn't). Being unibody, the cost is extensive (I am finding) to repair because the panels must be cut and welded / smoothed back into place.

Anyone had any luck with the fiberglass rear panel and / or belly panel from OGTS? Both areas on my car are in need of replacement.

Thanks
Richard Woodman
73 GT w/ A/C - currently on oncology ward
 

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Opeler
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38 Posts
Fiberglass rear

Hey Courgar if you are in need of a fiberglass rear panel I have one sitting around in my garage. Got it from Opel GT Source about 2 years ago and didn't use it. If your interested send me an email. [email protected]
 
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