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for the outside panel you need to find a donor car or make your own panel. It is a very gentle curve so should be easy to duplicate.

The insides good luck. Looks like you need to cut alot deeper and further up to find good metal.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Holy Bejeesus! That's the worst rust situation I've ever seen. I'm sorry to tell you, but I think you have a parts car there and that you should look for a better GT body. Your door hinge mounting sheet metal is totally compromised, the flow through air passageway to the footwells is totally nuked, the rockers are junk, so that probably means that your floorboards are toast, etc.

The kind of rust you have there is what sends most GT's to the junkyard. It's extremely common to find GT's that look great 6" from the bottom, but it's those last 6" that hold the car together. If you're rusted that bad as shown in the pic, then your frame rails and all sorts of other areas that you can't see are probably nuked. Attempting to replace just what is shown in the pic would be a nightmare. That car must have been sitting in a mud puddle.

You CAN find GT bodies that aren't catastrophically rusted and it is well worth it to pay extra to have a car shipped to you from someplace, like out West, where they don't get barnacle rust like that. It's much more enjoyable to fix up a car's mechanical stuff than to spend weeks/months repairing what's in the pic. Any car that you could cut the metal from to replace what's in the pic is probably a better car to fix up than what I'm seeing in the pic.

Sorry to be a negative nancy. Hey, maybe I'm wrong and the whole rest of the car is really sweet and maybe it is worth it to try to fix that area.
 

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Opel GT 1900, year 1970
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have read your responses carefully and I thank you. My car is in good condition in general. All I need now is to fix that rusted column.
I agree, that's a scary amount of rust-even for an experienced body shop. Gordo, I think Fernando might be in Europe (Portugal?) Not sure how easy it is to source another GT body over there.
Yes, from Portugal.
 

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Fernando, go to YouTube and subscribe to "Fitzee's Fabrications". He is a master metal fabricator out of Newfoundland who gears his videos towards the everyday car restorer. His motto is you don't need fancy tools to get the job of metal restoration done, just the WILL to want to do it right.

This site has several rebuilds of rusted GT's that are worth looking over. The GT restoration by member Vincent comes to mind as does the Opel Aero GT recreations by member Steve Daniels are two that are picture-heavy on how they took rust bucket GT's and made them like new.

Spend some time going over what Fitzee has in his library to get an idea on how he approaches a problem and goes about making it happen. Here is a sample video from his site:

 

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When I look at the picture Fernando posted I see an upscale professional auto repair shop.
He didn't ask "What do I do now ? " or "Is this Opel GT worth fixing ? "
The Question was simply "Do you know where I can get this part please ? "
That implies that he knows how to fix this damage and that he has made an informed decision
that this GT is worth repairing. His later comments confirm this.

There is no valid reason to assume that a rusted fender means this GT is junk.
I am thankful that most of the responses are positive and genuinely helpful, as I would expect from us.
 

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Opel GT 1900, year 1970
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
for the outside panel you need to find a donor car or make your own panel. It is a very gentle curve so should be easy to duplicate.

The insides good luck. Looks like you need to cut alot deeper and further up to find good metal.
Thank you!
 

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Fernando,
Do NOT be discouraged my friend. I recently picked up a GT that I thought was in decent shape except for the floor pans only to find out that it was a mass of duct tape, spray foam and bondo. It looked far worse than yours once I stripped off the paint and all the garbage that was used to patch it. I purchased a bunch of 18g shelving from a scrap yard for $20.00. I purchased a 49.00 brake from Harbor freight, I have spent 80 hours and used roughly ( 2 ) 6'x8' sheets of 18g steel (all shelving) I have used 25 lbs of welding wire, and roughly 40 lbs of rust and metal dust reside in my lungs, but with time and NOT a lot of money ALL of the metal fabrication and welding is done. I even took the time to cut metal tubing in 1/2 and made all the floor supports under the floor pans from the sub frame out to the outer rocker. You have to cut deep and wide on the outside and work your way back out from the inside on the replacement parts. When I bent my floor pans, I made the inner rocker and the floor pan all one piece. I replaced the middle rocker panel as a 90 degree bend from the door bottom seal back to the floor pan. I then welded the outer rocker again from the bottom door seal to the edge of the center rocker section. This went from the front fender well to the rear fender well. In front I had to fab up each interior section and weld down to the new rocker panel section. I also had to fab up new motor mount sections that are welded to the floor pans and out to the fender well section. Again, building from the inside and working your way out. I can be done, and if I can do it, any one can. No special tools, just a good anvil vise, harbor freight 30" bender, wire welder, grinder, cut off tool, ballpeen and flat hammers, Bandaids, and some chisels for the metal fab. It went a LOT faster than I thought and I WAS going to scrap the car. Now I just have to skim coat the outer repair sections that were welded in, prime and paint. I have done body work before, but never on this level. It is rewarding to bring something so bad as this car was back to life. I have owned many GT's over my lifetime and it was my first car at 16, I am pushing 60 now. I have a 70, 72, and currently restoring a 73.
 
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