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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought two 1971 Gts back in October on Ebay. I am now looking for parts. I need replacement floor pans (rusted out) and wiring (I hate mice). I keep thinking I need to look for replica or original replacement parts, but should I really even care.. One car, the "driver" doesn't move right now (tranny has brass in the bottom), has 5 million layers of paint, wrong seats, no seatbelts, lotsa hidden rust, etc.., and the "parts car that hasn't run for 13 years" runs like a top (funny what happens when you rotate the distributor 180 degrees) and is all original. I am debating on where to go next with these cars.. Keep them original, do what I want, etc... Any idears? Thanks
 

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first of all...where in kansas are you? i live in gardner, and there are a few of us around the kansas city area. always nice to know about others in your neighborhood.

secondly...is there enough between the two cars to make one good car? do you have one sound body i.e. good floors, rails, etc.? do you have seats, interior, dash...what all do you have?

thirdly...determine what you want to do with the car(s). if it were me, i would try to bring one back to stock form, then go from there. i would start with the engine...make it run, even if you have to overhaul it. then, work on the electrical system for your own safety. follow that with brakes, body, dash and panel, then the interior.

rest assured that there is tons of help on this site. you can ask questions in a variety of forums. you can search old threads by subject and will likely find your answers. you can also start new friendships with other opelers in the area. this can be a great way to gleen opinions, advice etc.

hope that this has helped. good luck, and i hope to see you on the site and on the road.

mike
 

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Well they are your cars so you can do whatever you want. I've heard people talk about VW bug floorboards working with a bit of trimming, alot more plentiful and cheaper than original. The brass in the tranny sounds like a synchro. Trannys are still fairly plentiful or you can upgrade or you can do the rebuild. On the bottom of the home page are some links to parts suppliers, Opel GT source is pretty well recomended. You can also look around here for quite a few ideas. One thing that always has to be said is get a factory manual they really are priceless. They can be found on Ebay almost all the time. As for your wiring, where have the rodents done the damage? Dash, engine compartment, fuse block, I can probably hook you up with enough to get started. Oh and welcome to the happy world of Opel ownership.
 

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I'd start w/ the runner first, get the feet wet, so to speak. It sounds like the runner would be the first to do. My GT has some rusted out pans. No big deal to my thinking. I plan on cutting out the squares, repair the braces and weld in some new squares from stock metal. Then just blast and recoat the bottom. My 2c's.
 

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70's Opeler, back 4 more!
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Welcome to Opeling and this forum.

I'd like to ask the same question as to which area of Kansas you are in.

Hey guys, we should start looking into a gathering sometime as the weather warms up. I know Bucky and my crew got together a couple of times last year.


Maybe like that new Wendy's commercial, new guy buys....

Manuals would be the way to start. Scan through here at some of the projects. http://clubs.hemmings.com/frameset.cfm?club=oana would be another place to look along with several other sites on the internet.

Good luck!
Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Howdy.. Thanks for the responses... These aren't my first Opels.. I owned a rust-free never wrecked '70 GT back in 1989. I had to sell it in 1993 after a gal decided to cross 7 lanes of traffic just so she could get in front of me and give me the priviledge of t-boning her at 45 in Tampa, FL.. I had to move to Okinawa too, so had to let her go... Needless to say I missed that car!

Neither car I have now runs per se. One needs the tranny worked on, the other needs the engine buttoned up. When I bought the two, the "non-running" car was sold as a parts car. No title on it. That won't be much of an issue to get fixed. The "running" car was the "good" one, but after seeing it and listening to the driveline smack the belly, I knew it wasn't all that good.. Both really don't need a lot for me to get them on the road. Both have their fair share of rust.. Floor boards, wheel wells, etc.. Weatherstripping and dash is shot on both. The parts car has no bondo while I think the "roadworthy" car is being held together with it. I just can't see it for all the coats of paint. The parts car is original yellow. Everything appears original, but it has been in a fender bender. Back end is bent up a bit. The "driver" has at last count about 4 different color layers on it.. Was the original light orange color. It's seen white and black along the way, and is red now. I can see where many body panels have been replaced. Both cars appear to have solid engines. The red one is on the low end of good for the compression test. I haven't checked the yellow one. Thought I'd wait until it had a chance to get some new oil moved around in it. The bodywork I am debating on as well. Do I put flat sheetmetal in, or do I work and fabricate new identical panels, or is there somewhere I can go to find the panels? Do I even bother because it will have no affect on resale value? I don't know.

So the original plan was to fix up the red one with the parts of the yellow one until I saw them both. Now I can't bring myself to hurt the yellow one. I am leaning towards keeping the yellow one all original, while making the red one the way I'd like it, and drive it most of the time. The yellow one I would probably let my daughter drive in a couple years when she gets her license. I don't want to do anything with the bodystyle, but the idear of throwing a V-6 in that red one just sounds awesome. Of course money and time have a lot to do with what happens next.

Wiring on both is chewed up in many random spots, both cars have about the same damage. in dash and in the engine compartment both. The mice liked the red and red/white wires coming from the alternator to the ammeter. Wires from alternator to regulator need replaced, plus various wiring all over. I am still assessing the damage. The fuse box on the red car is broke and barely hanging under the dash. Yellow car ignition switch is busted and has an add on starter button. The previous owner busted the headlight handle and tang off trying to get the lights to some up, so I need one of those too. Before I went further, I was wondering if I really needed to worry about how original the car was, as that would dictate whether I would work to keep everything original, including the wiring, or just run down the road and buy some bulk cable. I did manage to get the ever critical clock to work in the red car this weekend thanks to the technical info on this site.

I love Opel GT Source. He's got a chunk of money from me to date. I still have an old catalog from C&R small cars, but I guess they are no more. I was a member of the club back when...

I am located right down the road from a couple of ya.. I am in the big town of Ottawa. I plan on having at least one of these things on the road in time for the skunk run this year. 12 hour days aren't helping me though.

Thanks again for the help.
 

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Bullmoose, here's an idea for the wiring and fuse panel. First, get a wiring schematic from J. J. Wheatley at DESTEC, they are great. Second, you can modify a large RadShak project box to build a new fuse panel. I noticed this when I was building a new power panel for my V-6/T-5 swap. The actual fuse block will come out of the original fuse panel and can be attached to the project box and with a little work with an exacto saw, you can put the wiring inside the box to the fuse panel, then add some sheet metal to finish the box so you can slide it in the rear retainer and bolt it to the forward bolts in the original position. That was my initial plan, but I was starting with 7 fuses and ended up with 18 aircraft circuit breakers, so one box wouldn't hold all the electrical breakers and terminal strips I had to use for the electrical integration of car and engine computer wiring. So I ended up with one 8" X 6" X 3" and a smaller 7" X 5" X 3" on the bottom of the larger one. HTH.

Ron
 

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Parts

I have a couple of NOS tranny kits for the 4 seed some are more complete than others or, go to you local parts house and get syncros for a Vega same parts. Also have several good 4 speeds. The sheet metal pans you can get from Europe but BIG, BIG, BIG, bucks. I think I would have to go with the most sound body(rust free) that you have and go from there. If I can be of any help we are just a little south of you, Texas.
Rodney
 

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Killer,

Are you saying the vega tranys are the same, or just the syncro parts?
 

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Otto was telling me that the vega tranny is the same as the Opel. I have a copy of Opel dealer part cata log with original part numbers and with cross references, the majority 4 speed parts are listed "see Vega" of "Vega part #". It has been to long ago since I put my eyes on a Vega I can't say how close they are to being the same.
 

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dash wiring

bullmoose
If you want it I have a wiring harness for the dash. I just finished taking all the guages out and the rest is scrap to me. It's in good shape I just don't need it. The price is shipping.
 

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Stressed in Fort Worth, drive 90 miles north on 121 to highway 69 head east to Leonard, left on fm 896 metal shop building with red trim, I should have the parts you are looking for or I can a least show you a few Opels. So that you don't feel so stressed come to the Texas Get Together Memorial Day weekend for some fun and relaxation, get Your Opel Dyno tested along with the rest of us.
President Opel Club of Texas
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Bad to worse

Got the parts car running decent this weekend.. Radiator leaks. Gas tank leaks. Wiper motor is bad. Ignition switch is shot. I think I see oil in the water which tells me the the head gasket is probably blown. At least I hope it's that simple. ;-) Also, the number 3 cylinder is about 60psi, while the others are around 100psi. I hope the no 3 cylinder is where the gasket is blown, although all seem to be weak.. What should I be getting in a compression test?
 

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i've had 3 motors with 60 across the board
1 motor with 3 at 75, one at 45, burnt exhaust valve
and one with 95 across the board, and that one ran great (low comp tho) so i'd say 100 is pretty good. motor ran strong.

so i'd say 100 is OK
 

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compression

My experience with 1.9L Opel engines is a dry compression test should be done with a battery charger attached to the cars battery. As you test each cylinder the battery works harder to turn the engine and the amps go down. When the battery gets weaker the engine cranks slower and you can get a false reading.
It could show 185 in the 1st cylinder 175 in the 2nd 165 in the 3rd and 155 in the 4th. This is caused by the slower cranking

We tested all 30 GT's on the lot recently and found some were at 120 psi in all four, 145 psi in all four, and one had 170psi in all four.
I think if you are running a GT with 100psi dry then you have a worn out engine in need of new rings, or valves.
Also you may want to do a wet test to see if this brings up the compression psi. If it does then I would bet it is the rings that are worn.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Compression Jumped! Now I need a stud!

Finally got a couple service manuals off E-Bay. I "correctly" adjusted the lifters, and now I am getting 140psi on the number 1 cylinder! Went down from there to 120, 115, and 107 on 2,3,4 respectively. I think it's what you were referring to OpelJim with the battery loosing its crank power. Thanks. Car got a lot quiter and smoother when running too.. Now I don't think I have a head gasket leaking. Never underestimate the power of simple adjustments!

I had to quit though because one of the rocker arm studs keeps working out.. I can't seem to get locktite to hold it, but I haven't been trying to hard either.. I pretty much ruined my current stud trying to make it work.. Since it appears oiling comes from the stud, I don't think helicoil would work. Any ideas?
 

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Check your thread hole, use a tap (or a bolt). Either the bolt isn't set tight or the hole may need a inset. Consult a machinist if the latter.
 

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www. texasopel.com you ought to show up memorial day weekend, I drive daily to north fort worth, 1 1/2 away. Or you can go to site features, WEB LINKS, Opel Clubs and ther we are. Opel Club of Texas.
Rodney
 
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